탈색모는 시스틴(cystine) 함량이 낮고 시스테인 산(cysteine acid) 함량이 높은 반면 티로신(tyrosine), 메치오닌(methionine) 함량 또한 낮아 모발이 쉽게 손상되고 연모화 되거나 팽윤된다. 이에 본 연구에서는 17종의 아미노산을 가지고 있으며 특히 모발에 윤기를 더하고 ...
탈색모는 시스틴(cystine) 함량이 낮고 시스테인 산(cysteine acid) 함량이 높은 반면 티로신(tyrosine), 메치오닌(methionine) 함량 또한 낮아 모발이 쉽게 손상되고 연모화 되거나 팽윤된다. 이에 본 연구에서는 17종의 아미노산을 가지고 있으며 특히 모발에 윤기를 더하고 보습에 도움을 주는 메치오닌이 풍부한 맥주효모 제제를 탈색 시 첨가함으로 모발 손상 감소에 어떠한 영향을 미치는지 알아보고자 하였으며 다음과 같은 결과를 도출하였다. 본 연구는 조건을 달리하기 위해 비열처리군과 열처리군으로 나누었으며 탈색용제에 맥주효모 20%의 첨가 유무에 따라 비열처리군 중 맥주효모를 첨가한 군(NY)와 첨가하지 않은 군(N)으로 설정하였고, 열처리군 중 맥주효모를 첨가한 군(HY)와 맥주효모를 첨가하지 않은 군(HN)으로 설정하여 색상도 관찰, 인장강도 및 연신율, 모발의 굵기, 모표피 관찰, 모발의 미세구조 관찰, 흡광도 측정(MB)을 하였으며, 1회 시술시 손상정도와 2회의 반복 시술로부터 모발 손상정도를 관찰하였다. 색상도 관찰 결과 비열처리군 중 맥주효모를 첨가한 NY-2가 L*값 60.65 ± 0.84, a*값 6.38 ± 0.62, b*값 24.23 ± 0.58로 가장 높은 값을 보였다. 열처리군 중 맥주효모 첨가한 HY-1, HY-2가 같은 값을 보였으며 첨가하지 않은 HN-1, HN-2가 같은 값을 보여 횟수와 상관없이 과도한 열처리는 재 흡착을 일으킴을 알 수 있었다. 모발의 인장강도 및 연신율은 비열처리군 중 맥주효모를 첨가한 NY-1 133.2 ± 13.63 gf/㎟로 가장 높은 인장강도 값을 보였다. 그리고 가장 낮은 인장강도를 보인 HN-2는 81.8 ± 21.59 gf/㎟로 고온에서의 탈색과정과 탈색횟수가 반복될수록 강도율이 크게 감소되는 결과를 보였다. 연신율은 비열처리군 중 맥주효모를 첨가한 NY-1이 309 ± 16.32%로 높은 값을 보였으며 열처리군 중 맥주효모를 첨가한 HY-2가 239.6 ± 32.76%의 값으로 같은 조건인 맥주효모를 첨가하지 않은 HN 보다 1, 2회 모두 높은 값을 보였다. 모발의 굵기는 비열처리군 중 맥주효모를 첨가한 NY-1 0.0434 ± 0.0064 ㎜로 가장 굵게 나타났고 대조군 H 보다 굵은 결과를 보였다. 모표피 형태를 관찰한 결과 열처리군 중 맥주효모를 첨가하지 않은 HN의 표면이 가장 손상이 심각하였으며 같은 조건에서 맥주효모를 첨가한 HY의 경우 감소됨을 보였다. 그리고 비열처리군 중 맥주효모를 첨가한 NY의 경우 대조군 H와 거의 흡사한 표면을 관찰할 수 있었는데 이는 맥주효모가 큐티클의 손상을 막아 준 것을 알 수 있다. 모발의 미세구조 관찰 결과 비열처리군 중 맥주효모를 첨가한 NY-1 498.8 ± 32.94 ㎚로 대조군(H) 427.7 ± 46.75 ㎚ 보다 굵게 측정 된 것은 모발 내부의 간충물질을 채워줌과 동시에 보습력을 증강시킨 것으로 사료된다. Methylene blue 염색법을 통한 흡광도 측정 결과 비열처리군 중 맥주효모를 첨가한 NY-1의 O.D은 -32.3%의 결과를 보였으며 같은 조건 중 맥주효모를 첨가하지 않은 N-1의 경우 +43.9% MB의 증가율을 보여 같은 조건이라도 맥주효모의 첨가 유무에 따라 화학적인 손상이 감소됨을 알 수 있었다. 이와 같은 결과로 볼 때 맥주효모가 탈색과정에서 모발 중의 peptide나 amide 결합의 가수분해를 일으켜 시스틴산 잔기의 형성과 더불어 아스파라긴산(asparti acid)이나 글루타민산(gluetamic acid)의 아미드 결합의 가수분해로 섬유중의 염기성기에 대한 산성기의 비율을 증가시켜 모발의 등전점이 저하되면서 모발의 손상을 방지한 것으로 사료된다. 따라서 미용현장까지 접목될 수 있도록 탈색과정 뿐 아니라 퍼머넌트나 염색 시술시 맥주효모의 첨가에 따른 손상완화 효과에 대한 지속적인 연구가 이어져야 할 것이다.
탈색모는 시스틴(cystine) 함량이 낮고 시스테인 산(cysteine acid) 함량이 높은 반면 티로신(tyrosine), 메치오닌(methionine) 함량 또한 낮아 모발이 쉽게 손상되고 연모화 되거나 팽윤된다. 이에 본 연구에서는 17종의 아미노산을 가지고 있으며 특히 모발에 윤기를 더하고 보습에 도움을 주는 메치오닌이 풍부한 맥주효모 제제를 탈색 시 첨가함으로 모발 손상 감소에 어떠한 영향을 미치는지 알아보고자 하였으며 다음과 같은 결과를 도출하였다. 본 연구는 조건을 달리하기 위해 비열처리군과 열처리군으로 나누었으며 탈색용제에 맥주효모 20%의 첨가 유무에 따라 비열처리군 중 맥주효모를 첨가한 군(NY)와 첨가하지 않은 군(N)으로 설정하였고, 열처리군 중 맥주효모를 첨가한 군(HY)와 맥주효모를 첨가하지 않은 군(HN)으로 설정하여 색상도 관찰, 인장강도 및 연신율, 모발의 굵기, 모표피 관찰, 모발의 미세구조 관찰, 흡광도 측정(MB)을 하였으며, 1회 시술시 손상정도와 2회의 반복 시술로부터 모발 손상정도를 관찰하였다. 색상도 관찰 결과 비열처리군 중 맥주효모를 첨가한 NY-2가 L*값 60.65 ± 0.84, a*값 6.38 ± 0.62, b*값 24.23 ± 0.58로 가장 높은 값을 보였다. 열처리군 중 맥주효모 첨가한 HY-1, HY-2가 같은 값을 보였으며 첨가하지 않은 HN-1, HN-2가 같은 값을 보여 횟수와 상관없이 과도한 열처리는 재 흡착을 일으킴을 알 수 있었다. 모발의 인장강도 및 연신율은 비열처리군 중 맥주효모를 첨가한 NY-1 133.2 ± 13.63 gf/㎟로 가장 높은 인장강도 값을 보였다. 그리고 가장 낮은 인장강도를 보인 HN-2는 81.8 ± 21.59 gf/㎟로 고온에서의 탈색과정과 탈색횟수가 반복될수록 강도율이 크게 감소되는 결과를 보였다. 연신율은 비열처리군 중 맥주효모를 첨가한 NY-1이 309 ± 16.32%로 높은 값을 보였으며 열처리군 중 맥주효모를 첨가한 HY-2가 239.6 ± 32.76%의 값으로 같은 조건인 맥주효모를 첨가하지 않은 HN 보다 1, 2회 모두 높은 값을 보였다. 모발의 굵기는 비열처리군 중 맥주효모를 첨가한 NY-1 0.0434 ± 0.0064 ㎜로 가장 굵게 나타났고 대조군 H 보다 굵은 결과를 보였다. 모표피 형태를 관찰한 결과 열처리군 중 맥주효모를 첨가하지 않은 HN의 표면이 가장 손상이 심각하였으며 같은 조건에서 맥주효모를 첨가한 HY의 경우 감소됨을 보였다. 그리고 비열처리군 중 맥주효모를 첨가한 NY의 경우 대조군 H와 거의 흡사한 표면을 관찰할 수 있었는데 이는 맥주효모가 큐티클의 손상을 막아 준 것을 알 수 있다. 모발의 미세구조 관찰 결과 비열처리군 중 맥주효모를 첨가한 NY-1 498.8 ± 32.94 ㎚로 대조군(H) 427.7 ± 46.75 ㎚ 보다 굵게 측정 된 것은 모발 내부의 간충물질을 채워줌과 동시에 보습력을 증강시킨 것으로 사료된다. Methylene blue 염색법을 통한 흡광도 측정 결과 비열처리군 중 맥주효모를 첨가한 NY-1의 O.D은 -32.3%의 결과를 보였으며 같은 조건 중 맥주효모를 첨가하지 않은 N-1의 경우 +43.9% MB의 증가율을 보여 같은 조건이라도 맥주효모의 첨가 유무에 따라 화학적인 손상이 감소됨을 알 수 있었다. 이와 같은 결과로 볼 때 맥주효모가 탈색과정에서 모발 중의 peptide나 amide 결합의 가수분해를 일으켜 시스틴산 잔기의 형성과 더불어 아스파라긴산(asparti acid)이나 글루타민산(gluetamic acid)의 아미드 결합의 가수분해로 섬유중의 염기성기에 대한 산성기의 비율을 증가시켜 모발의 등전점이 저하되면서 모발의 손상을 방지한 것으로 사료된다. 따라서 미용현장까지 접목될 수 있도록 탈색과정 뿐 아니라 퍼머넌트나 염색 시술시 맥주효모의 첨가에 따른 손상완화 효과에 대한 지속적인 연구가 이어져야 할 것이다.
Since the decolorized hair contains high content of cysteine acid while having low contents of the cystine and the methionen, it can be damaged, softened or swelled easily. In this study, the influences of the brewer's yeast, which contains 17 kinds of amino acid and the abundant methionine that hel...
Since the decolorized hair contains high content of cysteine acid while having low contents of the cystine and the methionen, it can be damaged, softened or swelled easily. In this study, the influences of the brewer's yeast, which contains 17 kinds of amino acid and the abundant methionine that helps the hair be glossy and moisturized, on the reduction of the hair damage were examined by adding it when decolorizing the hair, and the following results were obtained. In this study, to vary the research conditions, the group was divided into the non-heat treatment group and the heat-treatment group. The color of the hair, the cuticle and the micro-structure of the hair were observed, the tensile strength, the elongation percentage and the absorbance (MB) were measured, and the degree of the hair damage when treating once and when treating twice repeatedly by dividing the non-heat treatment group into the NY group, which the brewer's yeast was added to the decolorizing agent, and the N group, which the brewer's yeast was not added, and by dividing the heat treatment group into the HY group, which the brewer's yeast was added, and the HN group, which it was not added, depending on the 20% of the brewer's yeast added to the decolorizing agent. In the results of observing the color, out of the non-heat treatment group, NY-2, the group that the brewer's yeast was added, represented the highest values with the L* value of 60.65 ± 0.84, a* value of 6.38 ± 0.62, and b* value of 24.23 ± 0.5860. As, out of the heat treatment group, HY-1 group and HY-2 group, which the brewer's yeast was added, represented the same values. and the HN-1 group and HN-2 group, which the brewer's yeast was not added, represented the same values, it was observed that the excessive heat treatment caused the reabsorption regardless of the frequency. In the tensile strength and the elongation percentage of the hair, as, out of the non-heat treatment groups, the NY-1 group, which the brewer's yeast was added, represented the highest tensile srtength with 133.2 ± 13.63 gf/㎟, and the HN-2 group represented the lowest tensile strength with 81.8 ± 21.59 gf/㎟, it represented that the more the decolorization process in the high temperature and the frequency of the decolorization were repeated, the greater the tensile strength was reduced. In the elongation percentage, as, out of the non-heat treatment groups, NY-1 group, which the brewer's yeast was added, represent the high value with 309 ± 16.32%, and out of the heat treatment group, HY-2 group, which the brewer's yeast was added, represented the value of 239.6 ± 32.76%, they represented one or two times higher value than the HN group, which the brewer's yeast was not added with same condition. In the thickness of the hair, out of the non-heat treatment groups, NY-1, which the brewer's yeast was added, represented the thickest with 0.0434 ± 0.0064 ㎜, showing thicker than the comparison group H. In the results of observing the shape of the cutilce, out of the heat treatment group, the HN group, which the brewer's yeast was not added, showed the most serious damage in the surface, and the damage in the surface was reduced in HY group, which the brewer's yeast was added in the same condition. In addition, in case of the HY group, which the brewer's yeast was added in the same condition, the surface almost similar to that of the comparison group H, which seems that the brewer's yeast protected the cuticle from the damage. In the results of observing the micro-structure of the hair, out of the non-heat treatment group, NY-1 group, which the brewer's yeast was added, was measured as 498.8 ± 32.94 ㎚ thicker than the comparison group (H) as 427.7 ± 46.75 ㎚, which is deemed that the brewer's yeast would fill the matrix inside of the hair and increase the moisturizing power at the same time. In the results of measuring the absorption through the methylene blue dyeing method, out of the non-heat treatment group, the O.D of the NY-1 group, which the brewer's yeast was added represented the -32.3%, and N-1 group, which the brewer's yeast was not added in the same condition represented the increase rate of 43% MB, from which it was observed that the chemical damage would be reduced depending on the presence of the brewer's yeast in spite of the same condition. Judging by such results, it is deemed that the brewer's yeast would prevent the hair from the damage by lowering the isoelectric point increasing the proportion of acid radical against the alkali radical with the hydrolysis of the asparti acid or gluetamic acid together with the formation of the cystine by causing the hydrolysis of the peptide or the amid bonds in the hair during the decolorization process. Therefore, the research on the damage mitigation effects of the brewer's yeast should be performed continuously not only in the decolorization process but also in the permanent or dyeing treatment in order to apply it in the beauty practition site during the permanent or the dyeing treatment.
Since the decolorized hair contains high content of cysteine acid while having low contents of the cystine and the methionen, it can be damaged, softened or swelled easily. In this study, the influences of the brewer's yeast, which contains 17 kinds of amino acid and the abundant methionine that helps the hair be glossy and moisturized, on the reduction of the hair damage were examined by adding it when decolorizing the hair, and the following results were obtained. In this study, to vary the research conditions, the group was divided into the non-heat treatment group and the heat-treatment group. The color of the hair, the cuticle and the micro-structure of the hair were observed, the tensile strength, the elongation percentage and the absorbance (MB) were measured, and the degree of the hair damage when treating once and when treating twice repeatedly by dividing the non-heat treatment group into the NY group, which the brewer's yeast was added to the decolorizing agent, and the N group, which the brewer's yeast was not added, and by dividing the heat treatment group into the HY group, which the brewer's yeast was added, and the HN group, which it was not added, depending on the 20% of the brewer's yeast added to the decolorizing agent. In the results of observing the color, out of the non-heat treatment group, NY-2, the group that the brewer's yeast was added, represented the highest values with the L* value of 60.65 ± 0.84, a* value of 6.38 ± 0.62, and b* value of 24.23 ± 0.5860. As, out of the heat treatment group, HY-1 group and HY-2 group, which the brewer's yeast was added, represented the same values. and the HN-1 group and HN-2 group, which the brewer's yeast was not added, represented the same values, it was observed that the excessive heat treatment caused the reabsorption regardless of the frequency. In the tensile strength and the elongation percentage of the hair, as, out of the non-heat treatment groups, the NY-1 group, which the brewer's yeast was added, represented the highest tensile srtength with 133.2 ± 13.63 gf/㎟, and the HN-2 group represented the lowest tensile strength with 81.8 ± 21.59 gf/㎟, it represented that the more the decolorization process in the high temperature and the frequency of the decolorization were repeated, the greater the tensile strength was reduced. In the elongation percentage, as, out of the non-heat treatment groups, NY-1 group, which the brewer's yeast was added, represent the high value with 309 ± 16.32%, and out of the heat treatment group, HY-2 group, which the brewer's yeast was added, represented the value of 239.6 ± 32.76%, they represented one or two times higher value than the HN group, which the brewer's yeast was not added with same condition. In the thickness of the hair, out of the non-heat treatment groups, NY-1, which the brewer's yeast was added, represented the thickest with 0.0434 ± 0.0064 ㎜, showing thicker than the comparison group H. In the results of observing the shape of the cutilce, out of the heat treatment group, the HN group, which the brewer's yeast was not added, showed the most serious damage in the surface, and the damage in the surface was reduced in HY group, which the brewer's yeast was added in the same condition. In addition, in case of the HY group, which the brewer's yeast was added in the same condition, the surface almost similar to that of the comparison group H, which seems that the brewer's yeast protected the cuticle from the damage. In the results of observing the micro-structure of the hair, out of the non-heat treatment group, NY-1 group, which the brewer's yeast was added, was measured as 498.8 ± 32.94 ㎚ thicker than the comparison group (H) as 427.7 ± 46.75 ㎚, which is deemed that the brewer's yeast would fill the matrix inside of the hair and increase the moisturizing power at the same time. In the results of measuring the absorption through the methylene blue dyeing method, out of the non-heat treatment group, the O.D of the NY-1 group, which the brewer's yeast was added represented the -32.3%, and N-1 group, which the brewer's yeast was not added in the same condition represented the increase rate of 43% MB, from which it was observed that the chemical damage would be reduced depending on the presence of the brewer's yeast in spite of the same condition. Judging by such results, it is deemed that the brewer's yeast would prevent the hair from the damage by lowering the isoelectric point increasing the proportion of acid radical against the alkali radical with the hydrolysis of the asparti acid or gluetamic acid together with the formation of the cystine by causing the hydrolysis of the peptide or the amid bonds in the hair during the decolorization process. Therefore, the research on the damage mitigation effects of the brewer's yeast should be performed continuously not only in the decolorization process but also in the permanent or dyeing treatment in order to apply it in the beauty practition site during the permanent or the dyeing treatment.
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