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단령에 관한 연구

A Study on Dan-Ryong

Abstract

This paper is a research on the origins and the developing process of $Dan-Ry\={o}ng$ centering on the change of its form. From the beginning of A. D era Central Asia had played the important role of a traffic route connecting China and its western adjacent world. Through this route $Dan-Ry\={o}ng$ was introduced into China (South-North Dynasty era). The form of $Dan-Ry\={o}ng$ in early period was Ban-Gum-Po (Open-collared costume that turn down the collar to the outside), and it could be worn close-collared or open-collared. From the fact that the people who wore $Dan-Ry\={o}ng$ in early period were mainly Iranian and that it was also worn by lower class like a waiting maid, it can be said that $Dan-Ry\={o}ng$ was not the costume of Han race. In early period the motif of the inside of collar was Persian style, and the people of central Asia was mostif Iranian. In short, $Dan-Ry\={o}ng$ was the costum of the people lived in the adjacent world west of China, particulary Iranians. The form of $Dan-Ry\={o}ng$ changed from Ho-Bok to Ban-Gum-Po owing to the differences in climate. In conclusion, $Dan-Ry\={o}ng$ originated in Ho-Bok ana was introduced into the world west of china by the movement of Horrse-riding Race. Then its form was changed owing to the factors like climate, natural and cultural features, and consepuently it was introduced into China by way of Centeral Asia. In China it was settled as $Dan-Ry\={o}ng$ through the ages of T'ang dynasty, Sung dynasty, Ming dynasty.

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