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철릭에 대한 사회학적 분석

An Analysis on Cholik in Social Aspect

Abstract

The present paper mainly cocerns, in social aspect of the cultural change, with how cholik was introduced and accepted in $Kory\v{o}$ dynasty. It was through cultural transmission in political relations with Won dynasty that $ch\v{o}$ lik was first listed on our own costume system in later $Kory\v{o}$ dynasty. The acceptance by $Kory\v{o}$ society can be interpreted as the twofold effects; positively, it enriched our costume system and, negatively, it brought about various conflicts, which in turn caused some unwelcome reactions. Once it had permeated into $Kory\v{o}$ culture. it could not avoid being changed by social conditions. The changing process can be defined as the dual cycles of fashion. The first one startd at mid peroid of $Kory\v{o}$ when King $Chung-ry\v{o}$l provided a law to wear the $W\v{o}n$ costume and. ended at larter $Kory\v{o}$ of King Kong-min's reign. The second cycle rose in the period between King Sejong's reign and late $Chos\v{o}n$. Each of the two cycles appeared to have its own characteristics; 1. The first cycle. 1) In spite of the long period of a century, the cycle was very abrupt both in development and decline. 2) The abrupt pattern of the cycle can be attributed to the nation-wide law provided by the ruler. 2. The second cycle. 1) Compared with the first cycle, the curve was rather slow. 2) The fashion originated from the hyperimitation of the government officials, since the costume was the royal gift by Chinese Emperor. 3) The main cause of the development of the fastion was the wars, rather than the public preference. 4) The main cause of the decline of the fashion was that it could no more differentiate the social status, that the wearer was laughed at by the Chinese, and that the long period of wearing the same dress stimulated the fashion psychology. 5) The increasing size of the costume rather decreased the very function of the costume.

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  1. 2000. "The Mutual Relation between the Chulik and The Po for Man in the Period of Chosun Dynasty" 한국의류학회지 = Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 24(2): 226~236 

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