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한복지의 소비성능에 관한 연구

A Study on the End-Uses Performance of Fabrics for Korean Folk Clothes

Abstract

In this paper, the fabrics for Korean folk clothes(KFC) undergoes repeated laundering under given condition. After this cyclic laundering was applied, the mechanical properties of the specimen were measured using KES-F system in order to evaluated the end-use performance of fabrics for KFC. And also, the crease recovery of fabrics for KFC were measured by shirley crease recovery tester. 78 different kinds of commercial silk fabrics and polyester fabrics for KFC were used for this study. The experimental results were analysed statistically to relate the mechanical properties and the crease recovery of fabrics for KFC. Furthermore, these changes in dimensional stability, mechanical properties and handle of fabrics for KFC were discussed in comparison with those values for silk fabrics and polyester fabrics. The results obtained are as follows. 1. Regardless of materials, remarkable increase are observed in shrinkage of the fabrics for KFC about repeated laundering, but dull increase are observed in shrinkage after 10 cycles of the repeated laundering. On the other hand, slack extend are observed in dimensions after 20 cycles of the repeated laundering. The shrinkage of fabrics for KFC after 10 cycles of the lundering showed that the silk fabrics are $1.74{\pm}0.33\%$ (warp direction) and $1.35{\pm}0.23\%$ (weft direction) and the polyester fabrics are $1.45{\pm}0.22\%$ (warp direction) and $1.25{\pm}0.23\%$ (weft direction). 2. Except for tensile property, these changes in mechanical properties of fabrics for KFC by laundering have $\pm$ 16 range of bending, shearing, compression, surface, thickness & weight as compared with before laundering. Particularly, the LT and RT about $1\~3$ cycles of the repeated laundering showed remarkable decrease. And SMD, WC, T & W of fabrics for KFC by the laundering were more increased than one for original fabrics. But B, 2HB, G, 2HG, 2HGS were decreased more than one for original fabrics. 3. 'Stiffness', 'Anti-drape', 'Crispness' and 'Scroop' hand values decrease and'Fullness & softness', 'Flexibility & softness' hand values increase with repeated laundering. 4. Remarkable decrease are observed in crease recoveries about $1\~5$ cycles of the repeated lundering, but slack decrease are observed in crease recoveries after 5 cycles of repeated laundering. The crease recovery of fabrics for KFC have negative(-) correlation with LT, RT, G, RC and MMD, This fact implies that the smaller these values, the larger the crease recovery. The crease recovery of fabrics for KFC has a high degree of correlation with the mechanical properties such as shearing, compression, surface property. And also, the crease recovery are expected by measuring the mechanical properties such as G, 2HG, 2HGS, RC, WC, LC, MIU, MMD and SMD, according to the obtained regression equation.

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