[논문]조선전기 출토 여성복식의 유형과 특징에 관한 연구

정주란; 김용문

doi:10.7233/jksc.2017.67.1.147

조선전기 출토 여성복식의 유형과 특징에 관한 연구
A Study on the Types and Characteristics of Women's Costume Excavated in the Early Joseon Dynasty 원문보기

服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, v.67 no.1, 2017년, pp.147 - 168

정주란 (강릉원주대학교 패션디자인학과) , 김용문 (강릉원주대학교 패션디자인학과)

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This study examines the types and characteristics of women's garments excavated in the early Joseon Dynasty before 1592. The study sorts out headgear, jacket, skirt and trousers, and coats from the historical texts in the early Joseon Dynasty and excavated women's wears in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and analyzes their textiles and patterns. The Joseon women's garments convey several features. They are wide across the chest and square shaped collar with virtually straight sleeves. While their breast-ties are extremely little for the size of clothes, they do not have any inner-tie. They have broad and short dongjeongs which seem to be hard to be adjusted. There are a variety of headgear. Jang-Jeogori slit down in both sides. The Jeogori after the seventeenth century transformed a more practical form of a fitting dress to an individual body in comparison with the sixteenth jeogori. It is identified that the fabrics in the early Joseon period were woven more diversely and colorfully than the late Joseon period. Most of the excavated fabrics in the sixteenth century were in silk. Materials for adornments before 1592 were not much diverse and their designs mostly contained patterns of lotus flowers, patterns of cloud and treasures with oblique lines. The colors are mainly brown, navy and green. The Joseon women's clothes were comprised of skirts with folded hem, coat with round collars, wide leg pants, Jangot, long-sleeved coat with folding collars, and quadrangular pieces of cloth in various sizes, or mu and so forth. Joseon women's clothes, like men's wears, partake of active functions in their headgears, wide leg pants, styles in short front and long back, and coat with round collars.

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질의응답

핵심어	질문	논문에서 추출한 답변
	조선시대 복식은 무엇을 기준으로 시기를 나눌 수 있는가?	일반적으로 조선시대 16세기 후반에서 17세기 전반은 한국사회가 전형적인 조선적 사회구조로 변화하는 시기로, 임진왜란을 중심으로 사회 전체가 크게 변화하였다(Chungbuk National University Museum [CNUM], 1995). 조선시대 복식은 임진 왜란을 분수령으로 전기와 후기로 크게 나눌 수 있으며 복식제도와 복식형태에 많은 변화가 확인된다. 조선전기의 복식은 남녀 모두 신체에 비해 옷이 크고 넓은 편이다.
	조선사회에서 전기의 여성들은 후기의 여성들에 비해 어떤 삶을 살았는가?	조선전기 여성들은 말을 타고 움직이며, 후기와달리 재산의 균분 상속이 이루어지고 있었고 아들을 대신하여 제사를 책임질 수 있었으며, 외향적이고 활동적이었다. 조선사회에서 여성의 재산권이 축소되는 변화가 일어나기 시작한 것은 17세기이후라고 한다.
	조선전기의 복식의 특징은 무엇인가?	조선시대 복식은 임진 왜란을 분수령으로 전기와 후기로 크게 나눌 수 있으며 복식제도와 복식형태에 많은 변화가 확인된다. 조선전기의 복식은 남녀 모두 신체에 비해 옷이 크고 넓은 편이다. 전기에는 금선단을 포함하여 무늬가 있는 고급비단의 사용이 왕실을 능가할 정도로 화려하게 나타나고 있어서 적어도 조선 전기의 사회는 풍요롭고 안정된 상황이었음을 시사한다(Museum of Old Roads [MOR], 2010). 조선시대 여성복식은 일반적으로 유교적사상이 강하여 폐쇄적이며 비실용적으로 보는 견해가 있으나 조선전기는 후기와 달리 말을 타고 움직이며 재산의 남녀 균분상속이 이루어졌고 여자도 제사를 책임질 수 있었다.

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조선전기 출토 여성복식의 유형과 특징에 관한 연구
A Study on the Types and Characteristics of Women's Costume Excavated in the Early Joseon Dynasty 원문보기

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조선전기 출토 여성복식의 유형과 특징에 관한 연구 A Study on the Types and Characteristics of Women's Costume Excavated in the Early Joseon Dynasty 원문보기

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조선전기 출토 여성복식의 유형과 특징에 관한 연구
A Study on the Types and Characteristics of Women's Costume Excavated in the Early Joseon Dynasty 원문보기