오늘날의 복식은 전통적인 고정관념에 얽매이지 않고 그 스타일이나 재료, 기법, 표현 방법 등에 있어서 보다 자유롭고 개성적이며 다양한 기술 등이 모색되고 있다. 복식에 한 부품으로 사용되고 있는 단추도 역시 기능을 중시하던 것에서 출발하여 현재에 이르러서는 장식성이 강해짐을 알 수 있다. 일반적으로 단추는 그 사회의 문화를 반영하고 있으며 그 가치는 실용성, 장식성과 상징성에 의해 결정 된다. 그러므로 본 논문에서는 I장에서 시대적 흐름에 따른 단추의 변화 과정을 고찰 하였으며, 단추가 가장 성행한 19, 20세기를 중심으로한 복...
오늘날의 복식은 전통적인 고정관념에 얽매이지 않고 그 스타일이나 재료, 기법, 표현 방법 등에 있어서 보다 자유롭고 개성적이며 다양한 기술 등이 모색되고 있다. 복식에 한 부품으로 사용되고 있는 단추도 역시 기능을 중시하던 것에서 출발하여 현재에 이르러서는 장식성이 강해짐을 알 수 있다. 일반적으로 단추는 그 사회의 문화를 반영하고 있으며 그 가치는 실용성, 장식성과 상징성에 의해 결정 된다. 그러므로 본 논문에서는 I장에서 시대적 흐름에 따른 단추의 변화 과정을 고찰 하였으며, 단추가 가장 성행한 19, 20세기를 중심으로한 복식에 있어서는 단추의 역할이 어떤 것인가를 문헌과 직접적인 조사를 통하여 고찰하는 것을 목적으로 하였다. II장에 있어서는 단추의 역사적 고찰로서 서양 단추와 한국 단추로 나누어 고찰하고, III장에서는 재료별로 분류한 단추의 종류 및 특성과 IV장에서는 19, 20세기 단추를 주제별로 조사 분류하여 그 제조 방법과 소재, 문양, 색채 및 형태 등을 연구하였다. V장에서는 복식에 있어서의 단추의 기능적, 장식적, 상징적인 역할 등으로 나누어 실 예를 들어 설명하였다. 이와 같이 19, 20세기의 각국 단추들은 의상을 대변하는 한 요소일 뿐만 아니라, 공예품의 차원을 넘어서 그들의 문화, 사상, 민족의 자부심 등이 반영되고 있음을 알 수 있다. 이에 반해 우리나라 단추는 소재, 생산 방법, 그리고 품질면에서 매우 뒤떨어져 있으므로 보다 적극적인 연구가 필요 하겠다는 결론에 도달하였다.
오늘날의 복식은 전통적인 고정관념에 얽매이지 않고 그 스타일이나 재료, 기법, 표현 방법 등에 있어서 보다 자유롭고 개성적이며 다양한 기술 등이 모색되고 있다. 복식에 한 부품으로 사용되고 있는 단추도 역시 기능을 중시하던 것에서 출발하여 현재에 이르러서는 장식성이 강해짐을 알 수 있다. 일반적으로 단추는 그 사회의 문화를 반영하고 있으며 그 가치는 실용성, 장식성과 상징성에 의해 결정 된다. 그러므로 본 논문에서는 I장에서 시대적 흐름에 따른 단추의 변화 과정을 고찰 하였으며, 단추가 가장 성행한 19, 20세기를 중심으로한 복식에 있어서는 단추의 역할이 어떤 것인가를 문헌과 직접적인 조사를 통하여 고찰하는 것을 목적으로 하였다. II장에 있어서는 단추의 역사적 고찰로서 서양 단추와 한국 단추로 나누어 고찰하고, III장에서는 재료별로 분류한 단추의 종류 및 특성과 IV장에서는 19, 20세기 단추를 주제별로 조사 분류하여 그 제조 방법과 소재, 문양, 색채 및 형태 등을 연구하였다. V장에서는 복식에 있어서의 단추의 기능적, 장식적, 상징적인 역할 등으로 나누어 실 예를 들어 설명하였다. 이와 같이 19, 20세기의 각국 단추들은 의상을 대변하는 한 요소일 뿐만 아니라, 공예품의 차원을 넘어서 그들의 문화, 사상, 민족의 자부심 등이 반영되고 있음을 알 수 있다. 이에 반해 우리나라 단추는 소재, 생산 방법, 그리고 품질면에서 매우 뒤떨어져 있으므로 보다 적극적인 연구가 필요 하겠다는 결론에 도달하였다.
The achievement of notable social reforms attained during the period of 19th and 20th centuries, needlessly speaking, remodelded the social environmental into several different patterns, such as : 1) high industrialization, 2) propensity to consume 3) up graded overall social stands. Accordingly, th...
The achievement of notable social reforms attained during the period of 19th and 20th centuries, needlessly speaking, remodelded the social environmental into several different patterns, such as : 1) high industrialization, 2) propensity to consume 3) up graded overall social stands. Accordingly, the industrial world of the buttons, too, established the mess production syhstem by breaking from convention of hand-craft work of 17th century. The raw materials used in the production line on buttons during the 20th century are almost all-kind of materials one can possibly named including cheap plastic which enabled production lines to produce cheaper but higher productivities of the buttons being produced. The design (incused design) used in the 19-20th centuries are: men, landscape, sports features, birds, livestocks, bugs, or geomatric features, etc. 1. The classification of the buttons by materials, Techniques, shapes, colors, marking (Incused design) used in the production of buttons in the England, United States of America, Laska, Italy, france, Denmark, Japan and. India are categolized as: natural raw materials and syntetical resines. 1) Of the natural raw materials used are; Metal, Enamel, Iodine, Agate, Coral, Green Jade (Jasper) Granite, Wood, Ivory, Horn and Bone, etc.. 2) The sythetical resin used in the button industries are: Artificial jewell, glass, Acrylic material, Styroform, Celluloid, and Nylon, etc. 2. The thecnique quoted in producing buttons are hand craft work, inlay work precision, casting, press, mosic, dye, etching, processing, engraving, and embossed carving, etc. 3. The major designs used in the buttons industries are: Round shape, however, elliptical, column, angular, and edge shape often used. 4. The colors used are: The multi-colors were highly used than mono-colored materials such as: Adjoining Color and Contrast Color. The highest consideration to be considered in choosing the colors for the buttons are harmonization and matching factor with the garment or dresses to be wore. 5. The major design (incused design) on the buttons are embodiment, and the design were also used in order of abstractive-combination, abstractive, with has offeres much surprising. The button industries during the 19th and 20th centuries were not only the determination factors those can judge the value of self-pride of Nation and which were far beyond the industrial arts in those days but also highly refelected and influenced by cultural sense, ideology, and self-pride of the Nation of those period. The followings are details of the role of the buttons categolized in the order of functional, ornamental and symbolical aspects: 1. The functional role: The functional role of the buttons were simply designed for fasten together the different part of the dress, however, the buttons beyond from this role of function, now a days, 2. The ornamental role: The ornamental role of the button were effectuated by : 1) shape, materials, colors, 2) technique, locations, size, and design (incused design). 3) The rawmaterials used for buttons shall not be over looked because it is highly depends on the taste, sense and combination of harmony with the garment to be wore. 4) The color of the buttons are made well contrasted with the color of garments just as in the case of other artistical area, such as matchs with the color or garment. or contrast with brightness of colors, contrasted as complementary color and so and so.. 5) The technique being adoped are: precision casting, press, handcraft, inlay work, etching, mosic, etc. Since the buttons are no longer a simple catching devise used to fasten together the different part of the dress but now it has formed own and occupied the independent role in the garment or dresses, location can be determined and varying depending on the ideas of designers. The size of the buttons has no specific limits. However, the variation has widely dependined on the entire circumperence, rythm contrast, harmonization of the garments. 3. The symbolical role: Since th button is no longer a just a simple devise for catching and fastening device used fastening together the different part of the garments but now were built a independent area as major part of the Garment and well reflected all kinds of occupations, political background, cultural aspect, etc., on the buttons. The design of buttons in the wastern circles are more simplified but they are polished looks and their techniques of manufacturing are comination of both machanism and handcraft,. The colors used in the buttons are pretty well harmonized with garment(dress). Almost all kind of materials can be used in the buttons, however, materials used in the buttons are; Bone of livestocks, ivory, turtle shell, are no longer used because the prevention of cruely of animal. On the contraly, the level of buttons industry of Korea is far to reach and catch up with the level of wastern circles. It is highly suggested, therefore, the buttons industrial field of Republic of Korea, shall place and encouragement in producing beter industrial environment of the buttons based on the traditional and cultural aspect of Republic of Korea to produce both manufacturing of qulified and best designed and colored buttons.
The achievement of notable social reforms attained during the period of 19th and 20th centuries, needlessly speaking, remodelded the social environmental into several different patterns, such as : 1) high industrialization, 2) propensity to consume 3) up graded overall social stands. Accordingly, the industrial world of the buttons, too, established the mess production syhstem by breaking from convention of hand-craft work of 17th century. The raw materials used in the production line on buttons during the 20th century are almost all-kind of materials one can possibly named including cheap plastic which enabled production lines to produce cheaper but higher productivities of the buttons being produced. The design (incused design) used in the 19-20th centuries are: men, landscape, sports features, birds, livestocks, bugs, or geomatric features, etc. 1. The classification of the buttons by materials, Techniques, shapes, colors, marking (Incused design) used in the production of buttons in the England, United States of America, Laska, Italy, france, Denmark, Japan and. India are categolized as: natural raw materials and syntetical resines. 1) Of the natural raw materials used are; Metal, Enamel, Iodine, Agate, Coral, Green Jade (Jasper) Granite, Wood, Ivory, Horn and Bone, etc.. 2) The sythetical resin used in the button industries are: Artificial jewell, glass, Acrylic material, Styroform, Celluloid, and Nylon, etc. 2. The thecnique quoted in producing buttons are hand craft work, inlay work precision, casting, press, mosic, dye, etching, processing, engraving, and embossed carving, etc. 3. The major designs used in the buttons industries are: Round shape, however, elliptical, column, angular, and edge shape often used. 4. The colors used are: The multi-colors were highly used than mono-colored materials such as: Adjoining Color and Contrast Color. The highest consideration to be considered in choosing the colors for the buttons are harmonization and matching factor with the garment or dresses to be wore. 5. The major design (incused design) on the buttons are embodiment, and the design were also used in order of abstractive-combination, abstractive, with has offeres much surprising. The button industries during the 19th and 20th centuries were not only the determination factors those can judge the value of self-pride of Nation and which were far beyond the industrial arts in those days but also highly refelected and influenced by cultural sense, ideology, and self-pride of the Nation of those period. The followings are details of the role of the buttons categolized in the order of functional, ornamental and symbolical aspects: 1. The functional role: The functional role of the buttons were simply designed for fasten together the different part of the dress, however, the buttons beyond from this role of function, now a days, 2. The ornamental role: The ornamental role of the button were effectuated by : 1) shape, materials, colors, 2) technique, locations, size, and design (incused design). 3) The rawmaterials used for buttons shall not be over looked because it is highly depends on the taste, sense and combination of harmony with the garment to be wore. 4) The color of the buttons are made well contrasted with the color of garments just as in the case of other artistical area, such as matchs with the color or garment. or contrast with brightness of colors, contrasted as complementary color and so and so.. 5) The technique being adoped are: precision casting, press, handcraft, inlay work, etching, mosic, etc. Since the buttons are no longer a simple catching devise used to fasten together the different part of the dress but now it has formed own and occupied the independent role in the garment or dresses, location can be determined and varying depending on the ideas of designers. The size of the buttons has no specific limits. However, the variation has widely dependined on the entire circumperence, rythm contrast, harmonization of the garments. 3. The symbolical role: Since th button is no longer a just a simple devise for catching and fastening device used fastening together the different part of the garments but now were built a independent area as major part of the Garment and well reflected all kinds of occupations, political background, cultural aspect, etc., on the buttons. The design of buttons in the wastern circles are more simplified but they are polished looks and their techniques of manufacturing are comination of both machanism and handcraft,. The colors used in the buttons are pretty well harmonized with garment(dress). Almost all kind of materials can be used in the buttons, however, materials used in the buttons are; Bone of livestocks, ivory, turtle shell, are no longer used because the prevention of cruely of animal. On the contraly, the level of buttons industry of Korea is far to reach and catch up with the level of wastern circles. It is highly suggested, therefore, the buttons industrial field of Republic of Korea, shall place and encouragement in producing beter industrial environment of the buttons based on the traditional and cultural aspect of Republic of Korea to produce both manufacturing of qulified and best designed and colored buttons.
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