Although there is no exact specification, an ultramcrofiber(UMF) is conventionally defined as a fiber of less than 0.5∼0.3 denier and microfiber(MF) is less than 1.0denier. MF and UMF arouse a very pleasant feeling when in contact with the skin, and from a technical point of view they offer all the ...
Although there is no exact specification, an ultramcrofiber(UMF) is conventionally defined as a fiber of less than 0.5∼0.3 denier and microfiber(MF) is less than 1.0denier. MF and UMF arouse a very pleasant feeling when in contact with the skin, and from a technical point of view they offer all the conveniences of the synthetic fibers with respect to washing, drying and ironing, but they look like natural fibers and are very comfortable. MF and UMF are particularly adaptable to sportswear and nonwoven fabric. In chapter 1 of part Ⅱ, polyester monofilament was dyed in different four denier - 2.08d, 1.04d(regular), 0.52d(MF), and 0.05d(UMF) - with two dyes, Disperse Red 60 and Disperse Blue 56. In chapter 2, polyester fibers and fabrics have been dyed with disperse dyes in alkaline dyebath such as alkaline buffer and alkaline auxiliary(JPH-95) comparing a traditional acidic dyeing. in chapter 3, polyester filaments of regular(2.08d) and UMF were treated with dimethylformamide(DMF) to observe the structure change of the polyester such as shrinkage, density, X-ray diffraction of the UMF treated with DMF were measured. pH of dye bath was 5.0 in buffer solution of CH_(3)COOH/CH_(3)COONa(0.1mol/l). Liquor ratio was kept at 1000:1. The results obtained in part Ⅱ are as follows: 1. At different dyeing temperature, dye exhaustion is increased according to filament fineness in low temperature, but is decreased in high temperature. The quantity of dye necessary to obtain a given shade varies inversely with the fiber diameter(Forthergill equation) for Disperse Blue 56 having good buildup property. 2. In dyeing at 100℃ the dyeing rate increased with decreasing fiber denier, regardless of dye baths, whereas the dyeing rates of the same denier fiber increased in the order of alkaline dyeing>acidic dyeing>JPH-95 dyeing. In dyeing at 130℃ the dyeing rate of JPH-95 dyeing decreased compared with the other two types of dye baths. In the time and temperature curve the dye uptake of JPH-95 dyeing was higher than the other two types of dye baths in the range of low temperature(90∼115℃). The equilibrium dye uptake increased in the order of 0.52d>2.04d>0.05d fiber. Washing fastness had no change in all three types of dye baths. But rubbing fastness was not good for alkaline dyeing except black dyes. 3. The dyeability was improved by DMF treatments, and the equilibrium dye uptake increased in spite of the increases in the density and birefringence and crystallinity. The heat shrinkage appeared in polyester UMF treated with DMF at 80℃ by TMA, DSC, and Reovibron analysis and T?? peak was shown by DSC analysis. In chapter 4 of part Ⅲ, Nylon 6 UMF(monodenier 0.07d) and regular staple fiber (monodenier 2.05d) were dyed with acid and disperse dyes to investigate the effect of the difference of the fiber fineness. In chapter 5, Nylon 6 stape UMF and regular staple fiber were annealed at 100, 130, 160 and 180℃ under tension free for 10 min and 60 min. They were adjusted at pH 5.0 of dye bath in buffer solution of CH_(3)COOH/CH_(3)COONa(0.1mol/l). Liquor ratio was kept at 1000:1 X-ray diffraction pattern, birefingence, DSC thermogram, moisture regain and water absorption of these fibers were measured. The results obtained in part Ⅲ are as follows: 1. The dyeing rate of nylon UMF with acid dyes is increased compared with that of regular fiber, but not increased for isperse dyes. Also the saturation dye uptake of UMF with acid dyes is higher than that of regular fiber, while it is unchanged for disperse dyes. The moisture regain of UMF is similar to the regular fiber, whereas the water absorption of UMF is two times than that of the regular fiber. The crystallinity percentage of UMF is higher than that of regular fiber. 2. Dyeing rate of UMF annealed at 100℃ was decreased, but was increased for regular nylon. Also dye equilibrium of UMF at 100℃ was increased for Acid Red 18, but was decreased for Acid Blue 83. The intensities of X-ray diffraction peaks of UMF increased with increasing annealing temperature. Also the crystallinity of heat-setted fibers by DSC thermogram was well agreed with the tendency of density. Amino end group, moisture regain and water absorbency were decreased with increasing annealing temperature. In chapter 6 of Part Ⅳ, Nylon 6 and polyester fabrics were dyed in aqueous medium with vat dyes varying the compositions of sodium hydrosulfite(Na_(2)S_(2)O_(4)) and NaOH. Also nylon UMF nonwoven and polyester UMF knitted fabrics are dyed with metal complex and disperse dyes as a reference, and the wash and rubbing fastnesses for these dyes were investigated. In chapter 7, polyester fabrics were padded with four vat dye baths containing Na_(2)S_(2)O_(4) and NaOH, or vat dyes alone. After dyeing, the fabrics were processed by hot air at 210℃ for 5min, super heat steam(HTS) at 180℃ for 10min, and high pressure steam(HPS) at 130℃ for 10min, respectively, and subsequently soaped. In chapter 8, polyester fabric was dyed with fourteen vat dyes by the thermosol process in presence of the dye dissolving agents such as urea, PEG and glycerine. The results obtained in part Ⅳ are as follows: 1. In vat dyeing of polyester and nylon taffeta, an optimum composition of sodium hydrosulfite/NaOH is existed at a range of 1∼2wt%/0.2wt%. A good build-up property for Mikethren Blue ACE on nylon 6 UMF nonwoven fabric is shown at high temperature. Vat dyeing of polyester with Mikethren Blue Ace shows a good color shade in a higher temperature, while dyeing with Mitsui Blue HR shows low temperatures. Vat dyes in dyeing of both nylon 6 UMF nonwoven and polyester UMF knitted fabrics have a better wash fastnesses compared with metal complex or disperse dyes. 2. The fabrics after the processingly by dry heat, HT and HP steamings showed considerably high color depth not only for the dye alone but also for the Na_(2)S_(2)O_(4) and NaOH. Therefore, it seems that quinone, leuco form and vat acid structures of the vat dye are all effective for coloration of polyester fabric by dry heat, HTS, and HPS processings after padding. Even so, it is a matter of course to select the processing conditions for each dye. 3. Color depth increased considerably by adding a urea. Therefore, it seems that polyester fabric could be dyed with a vat dye by means of thermosol process like a disperse dyeing of polyester fabric, especially in the presence of urea. The light fastness of the dyed fabric is not always enough. In chapter 9 of part Ⅴ, waterborne PU membrane was prepared from waterborne PU dispersion solution to investigate physical and staining properties. The staining properties of waterborne PU membrane with acid dyed and disperse dyes were observed. The physical properties of the PU membrane were investigated by X-ray diffraction and IR spectroscopy. In chapter 10, UMF polyester knitted fabric and regular polyester plain woven fabric were impregnated with waterborne polyurethane(PU) in a two-step process with dyeing/PU treatment and PU treatment/dyeing to investigate the effect of the treatment sequence. The waterborne PU impregnated fabrics were dyed with two kinds of vat and disperse dyes to investigate the dyeing properties and the dyeing fastnesses. The results obtained in part Ⅴ are as follows: 1. The staining properties of waterborne PU membrane for azo acid dyes are good, but disperse dyes are not good. And the staining grades of disperse dyes are higher than that of acid dyes. The structures of three kinds of PU are nearly to be alike. 2. In vat dyeing the rank of color strength (K/S) was in order of dyeing/PU impregnation>dyeing only>PU impregnation/dyeing, whereas in case of disperse dyeing, the order was dyeing/PU impregnation>PU impregnation/dyeing>dyeing only. Wash fastness of vat dyeing showed a higher 2-3 grade than disperse dyeing, while rubbing and light fastnesses were not good for disperse dyes.
Although there is no exact specification, an ultramcrofiber(UMF) is conventionally defined as a fiber of less than 0.5∼0.3 denier and microfiber(MF) is less than 1.0denier. MF and UMF arouse a very pleasant feeling when in contact with the skin, and from a technical point of view they offer all the conveniences of the synthetic fibers with respect to washing, drying and ironing, but they look like natural fibers and are very comfortable. MF and UMF are particularly adaptable to sportswear and nonwoven fabric. In chapter 1 of part Ⅱ, polyester monofilament was dyed in different four denier - 2.08d, 1.04d(regular), 0.52d(MF), and 0.05d(UMF) - with two dyes, Disperse Red 60 and Disperse Blue 56. In chapter 2, polyester fibers and fabrics have been dyed with disperse dyes in alkaline dyebath such as alkaline buffer and alkaline auxiliary(JPH-95) comparing a traditional acidic dyeing. in chapter 3, polyester filaments of regular(2.08d) and UMF were treated with dimethylformamide(DMF) to observe the structure change of the polyester such as shrinkage, density, X-ray diffraction of the UMF treated with DMF were measured. pH of dye bath was 5.0 in buffer solution of CH_(3)COOH/CH_(3)COONa(0.1mol/l). Liquor ratio was kept at 1000:1. The results obtained in part Ⅱ are as follows: 1. At different dyeing temperature, dye exhaustion is increased according to filament fineness in low temperature, but is decreased in high temperature. The quantity of dye necessary to obtain a given shade varies inversely with the fiber diameter(Forthergill equation) for Disperse Blue 56 having good buildup property. 2. In dyeing at 100℃ the dyeing rate increased with decreasing fiber denier, regardless of dye baths, whereas the dyeing rates of the same denier fiber increased in the order of alkaline dyeing>acidic dyeing>JPH-95 dyeing. In dyeing at 130℃ the dyeing rate of JPH-95 dyeing decreased compared with the other two types of dye baths. In the time and temperature curve the dye uptake of JPH-95 dyeing was higher than the other two types of dye baths in the range of low temperature(90∼115℃). The equilibrium dye uptake increased in the order of 0.52d>2.04d>0.05d fiber. Washing fastness had no change in all three types of dye baths. But rubbing fastness was not good for alkaline dyeing except black dyes. 3. The dyeability was improved by DMF treatments, and the equilibrium dye uptake increased in spite of the increases in the density and birefringence and crystallinity. The heat shrinkage appeared in polyester UMF treated with DMF at 80℃ by TMA, DSC, and Reovibron analysis and T?? peak was shown by DSC analysis. In chapter 4 of part Ⅲ, Nylon 6 UMF(monodenier 0.07d) and regular staple fiber (monodenier 2.05d) were dyed with acid and disperse dyes to investigate the effect of the difference of the fiber fineness. In chapter 5, Nylon 6 stape UMF and regular staple fiber were annealed at 100, 130, 160 and 180℃ under tension free for 10 min and 60 min. They were adjusted at pH 5.0 of dye bath in buffer solution of CH_(3)COOH/CH_(3)COONa(0.1mol/l). Liquor ratio was kept at 1000:1 X-ray diffraction pattern, birefingence, DSC thermogram, moisture regain and water absorption of these fibers were measured. The results obtained in part Ⅲ are as follows: 1. The dyeing rate of nylon UMF with acid dyes is increased compared with that of regular fiber, but not increased for isperse dyes. Also the saturation dye uptake of UMF with acid dyes is higher than that of regular fiber, while it is unchanged for disperse dyes. The moisture regain of UMF is similar to the regular fiber, whereas the water absorption of UMF is two times than that of the regular fiber. The crystallinity percentage of UMF is higher than that of regular fiber. 2. Dyeing rate of UMF annealed at 100℃ was decreased, but was increased for regular nylon. Also dye equilibrium of UMF at 100℃ was increased for Acid Red 18, but was decreased for Acid Blue 83. The intensities of X-ray diffraction peaks of UMF increased with increasing annealing temperature. Also the crystallinity of heat-setted fibers by DSC thermogram was well agreed with the tendency of density. Amino end group, moisture regain and water absorbency were decreased with increasing annealing temperature. In chapter 6 of Part Ⅳ, Nylon 6 and polyester fabrics were dyed in aqueous medium with vat dyes varying the compositions of sodium hydrosulfite(Na_(2)S_(2)O_(4)) and NaOH. Also nylon UMF nonwoven and polyester UMF knitted fabrics are dyed with metal complex and disperse dyes as a reference, and the wash and rubbing fastnesses for these dyes were investigated. In chapter 7, polyester fabrics were padded with four vat dye baths containing Na_(2)S_(2)O_(4) and NaOH, or vat dyes alone. After dyeing, the fabrics were processed by hot air at 210℃ for 5min, super heat steam(HTS) at 180℃ for 10min, and high pressure steam(HPS) at 130℃ for 10min, respectively, and subsequently soaped. In chapter 8, polyester fabric was dyed with fourteen vat dyes by the thermosol process in presence of the dye dissolving agents such as urea, PEG and glycerine. The results obtained in part Ⅳ are as follows: 1. In vat dyeing of polyester and nylon taffeta, an optimum composition of sodium hydrosulfite/NaOH is existed at a range of 1∼2wt%/0.2wt%. A good build-up property for Mikethren Blue ACE on nylon 6 UMF nonwoven fabric is shown at high temperature. Vat dyeing of polyester with Mikethren Blue Ace shows a good color shade in a higher temperature, while dyeing with Mitsui Blue HR shows low temperatures. Vat dyes in dyeing of both nylon 6 UMF nonwoven and polyester UMF knitted fabrics have a better wash fastnesses compared with metal complex or disperse dyes. 2. The fabrics after the processingly by dry heat, HT and HP steamings showed considerably high color depth not only for the dye alone but also for the Na_(2)S_(2)O_(4) and NaOH. Therefore, it seems that quinone, leuco form and vat acid structures of the vat dye are all effective for coloration of polyester fabric by dry heat, HTS, and HPS processings after padding. Even so, it is a matter of course to select the processing conditions for each dye. 3. Color depth increased considerably by adding a urea. Therefore, it seems that polyester fabric could be dyed with a vat dye by means of thermosol process like a disperse dyeing of polyester fabric, especially in the presence of urea. The light fastness of the dyed fabric is not always enough. In chapter 9 of part Ⅴ, waterborne PU membrane was prepared from waterborne PU dispersion solution to investigate physical and staining properties. The staining properties of waterborne PU membrane with acid dyed and disperse dyes were observed. The physical properties of the PU membrane were investigated by X-ray diffraction and IR spectroscopy. In chapter 10, UMF polyester knitted fabric and regular polyester plain woven fabric were impregnated with waterborne polyurethane(PU) in a two-step process with dyeing/PU treatment and PU treatment/dyeing to investigate the effect of the treatment sequence. The waterborne PU impregnated fabrics were dyed with two kinds of vat and disperse dyes to investigate the dyeing properties and the dyeing fastnesses. The results obtained in part Ⅴ are as follows: 1. The staining properties of waterborne PU membrane for azo acid dyes are good, but disperse dyes are not good. And the staining grades of disperse dyes are higher than that of acid dyes. The structures of three kinds of PU are nearly to be alike. 2. In vat dyeing the rank of color strength (K/S) was in order of dyeing/PU impregnation>dyeing only>PU impregnation/dyeing, whereas in case of disperse dyeing, the order was dyeing/PU impregnation>PU impregnation/dyeing>dyeing only. Wash fastness of vat dyeing showed a higher 2-3 grade than disperse dyeing, while rubbing and light fastnesses were not good for disperse dyes.
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