조선시대 향문화를 왕실의례, 불교문화, 선비문화, 의료(醫療)문화로 용도를 분류하여 각각에 대해 살펴보았다.
향은 복식과 관련하여 방향과 방충의 용도로 사용되어 왔다.
복식과 방향문화에서는 복식에 직접적으로 향기를 스미게 하는 훈의(薰衣ㆍ熏衣)와 간접적으로 복식의 부속구나 장신구(裝身具)를 몸에 지님으로써 향기를 더하는 패식(佩飾)으로 구분하였다. 훈의는 발산향(發散香)을 이용하는 방식과 향 태운 연기[香煙]를 이용하는 방식으로 나누어 각각의 훈의법에 대해 고찰하였다. 패식은 남녀를 구분하여 남자의 향 패식에는 ...
조선시대 향문화를 왕실의례, 불교문화, 선비문화, 의료(醫療)문화로 용도를 분류하여 각각에 대해 살펴보았다.
향은 복식과 관련하여 방향과 방충의 용도로 사용되어 왔다.
복식과 방향문화에서는 복식에 직접적으로 향기를 스미게 하는 훈의(薰衣ㆍ熏衣)와 간접적으로 복식의 부속구나 장신구(裝身具)를 몸에 지님으로써 향기를 더하는 패식(佩飾)으로 구분하였다. 훈의는 발산향(發散香)을 이용하는 방식과 향 태운 연기[香煙]를 이용하는 방식으로 나누어 각각의 훈의법에 대해 고찰하였다. 패식은 남녀를 구분하여 남자의 향 패식에는 향대(香帶)ㆍ향영자(香纓子)ㆍ향낭(香囊)ㆍ향선추(香扇錘)가, 여성의 향 패식에는 향낭ㆍ향노리개가 있으며 향기와 함께 장신구의 역할을 하였다. 현존하는 향 패식인 향낭ㆍ향노리개ㆍ향선추를 중심으로 향낭은 주머니의 모양에 따라, 향노리개와 향선추는 주체에 사용된 장식기법에 따라 유형을 분류하고 조형특성을 살펴보았다. 아울러 약낭(藥囊)에 대해 고찰하여 향낭과의 상관성에 대해 살펴보았다.
복식과 방충문화에서는 향연기ㆍ세의향(洗衣香)ㆍ발산향을 이용하는 방법으로 분류하여 각각에서 사용된 향ㆍ약재의 종류와 사용방식에 대해 고찰하였다.
향의 제조에서는 조선시대 복식의 방향과 방충을 위하여 주로 사용된 향ㆍ약재의 종류, 훈의와 패식의 용도에 따른 향의 제조방법에 대해 고찰하였다.
조선시대 향문화를 왕실의례, 불교문화, 선비문화, 의료(醫療)문화로 용도를 분류하여 각각에 대해 살펴보았다.
향은 복식과 관련하여 방향과 방충의 용도로 사용되어 왔다.
복식과 방향문화에서는 복식에 직접적으로 향기를 스미게 하는 훈의(薰衣ㆍ熏衣)와 간접적으로 복식의 부속구나 장신구(裝身具)를 몸에 지님으로써 향기를 더하는 패식(佩飾)으로 구분하였다. 훈의는 발산향(發散香)을 이용하는 방식과 향 태운 연기[香煙]를 이용하는 방식으로 나누어 각각의 훈의법에 대해 고찰하였다. 패식은 남녀를 구분하여 남자의 향 패식에는 향대(香帶)ㆍ향영자(香纓子)ㆍ향낭(香囊)ㆍ향선추(香扇錘)가, 여성의 향 패식에는 향낭ㆍ향노리개가 있으며 향기와 함께 장신구의 역할을 하였다. 현존하는 향 패식인 향낭ㆍ향노리개ㆍ향선추를 중심으로 향낭은 주머니의 모양에 따라, 향노리개와 향선추는 주체에 사용된 장식기법에 따라 유형을 분류하고 조형특성을 살펴보았다. 아울러 약낭(藥囊)에 대해 고찰하여 향낭과의 상관성에 대해 살펴보았다.
복식과 방충문화에서는 향연기ㆍ세의향(洗衣香)ㆍ발산향을 이용하는 방법으로 분류하여 각각에서 사용된 향ㆍ약재의 종류와 사용방식에 대해 고찰하였다.
향의 제조에서는 조선시대 복식의 방향과 방충을 위하여 주로 사용된 향ㆍ약재의 종류, 훈의와 패식의 용도에 따른 향의 제조방법에 대해 고찰하였다.
Incense has been used to make clothes fragrant and mothproof. The purpose of this study is to examine Huneui(薰衣ㆍ熏衣), a direct addition of fragrance to clothes in the Joseon period, and Paesik(佩飾), which means carrying and decoration with incense to indirectly add fragrance to clothes in the same per...
Incense has been used to make clothes fragrant and mothproof. The purpose of this study is to examine Huneui(薰衣ㆍ熏衣), a direct addition of fragrance to clothes in the Joseon period, and Paesik(佩飾), which means carrying and decoration with incense to indirectly add fragrance to clothes in the same period. In association, the study examined how incense was used to preserve costume, what kinds of incense and herbs were used to make fragrant and mothproof clothes and the materials and how to manufacture incense which were used for the fragrance and moth-proofness. Findings of the study can be described as follows.
Huneui is classified into two ways, using the fragrance of unburned incense(薰衣), that is, Balsanhyang(發散香) and using smokes from burned incense(熏衣). In case that Balsanhyang is used, unburned incense is covered by sort of an auxiliary device or lid, that is, Hunrong(熏籠). Then, clothes are put on the surface of Hunrong for a few hours in other that the fragrance of the incense can permeate into the clothes.
In case that using smokes from burned incense, is also classified into two another ways, using an incense burner only and using both the burner and Hunrong. In the former way, a person who is dressed makes his hands near from the burner, making the fragrance of burned incense permeate into his clothes through the sleeves. In case that both the burner and Hunrong is used, the former is covered by the latter. Then, clothes, which are not worn, are spreaded over the surface of Hunrong in order to be permeated into by the fragrance of incense.
Paesik means carrying and decoration with incense on the body. Means of Paesik for men include Hyangdae(香帶), in which incense is put around a waist belt, Hyangyoungja(香纓子), in which incense decorating a hat, Hyangnang(香囊), which is a pouch containing incense, and Hyangseonchu(香扇錘), which is a folding fan whose end tip is decorated with incense. While, those for women include Hyangnang and Hyangnorigae which are also used as decorative accessories.
Hyangang has two shapes, round and rectangular. Hangnorigae and Hyangseonchu are classified into six styles in accordance with the technique of decoration applied to their main body. Specifically, there are Embroidery style(刺繡形), Chilbo style(七寶形), in which glaze or pigments are applied to the main body that in turn is burned in a furnace, Pyeon style(編形), in which the main body is woven with metal wires plated with gold or silver or with horsehair, Tugak style(透刻形), in which the main body is punched and then patterns are incarnated on it, Apin style(押印形), in which the main body has incense that is made in a uniform shape by using a fixed molding frame, and Gwan style(串形), in which the incense is connected through threads to the main body.
The above mentioned means of Paesik were usually colored with the Five Main Colors, or Obang color, among which red was mostly used because it strongly symbolized exorcism. In terms of material, Hyangnang was usually made of fabrics, Hyangnorigae and Hyangseonchu were usually made of gold, silver, jewels, horsehair and fabrics. Those means of Paesik usually had auspicious patterns symbolizing wishes for individual and family happiness.
Yaknang(藥囊) is a pouch that was used in the Joseon period to contain medicines which were taken in through the mouth or inhaled through the nose. Presumedly, Yaknang was sometimes used to contain fragrant medicinal materials like elecampane(靑木香), cloves(丁香), betony(藿香), aloeswood(沈香) and frankincense(乳香) or medicines made of those materials. In this case, Yaknang was certainly another Hyangnang.
For costume preservation in the Joseon period, incense smokes, Seeuihyang(洗衣香), which means adding incense when boiling, washing or rinsing clothes with waters, and Balsanhyang were generally used. Incense smokes was used in a way that clothes are exposed to smokes from burned incense in order that moths can be removed from the clothes. Seeuihyang was used in a way that clothes ar washed with waters mixed with incense or that incense is added to starch for clothes. And Balsanhyang was used in a way that incense is inserted between clothes or put in clothing boxes.
Euihyang(衣香) was used in various applications, for example, stuffs necessary for diplomatic relations, reception for envoys, portrait scroll cases, palanquin for the royal family and royal costume boxes. Euihyang was in most cases used to give fragrance, but much helped removing moths because it contains Palgakhyang(八角香) and cloves both of which are very high in sterilization and moth-proofness.
There were 12 common materials of incense that was used to make clothes fragrant and mothproof in the Joseon period, which include aloeswood, musk, Yeongronghyang(寧陵香), spikenard, refined Borneo, Palgakhyang(八角香), fennel, Blettila striata or Baekgeup(白芨), Baekji(白芷) and Samnaeja(三乃子). These materials themselves are all incense and resistant to moths and germs.
Concerning the manufacturing method of incense, this researcher examined how to manufacture Buyonghyang(芙蓉香), Maewhahyang(梅花香) and Euihyang.
Incense has been used to make clothes fragrant and mothproof. The purpose of this study is to examine Huneui(薰衣ㆍ熏衣), a direct addition of fragrance to clothes in the Joseon period, and Paesik(佩飾), which means carrying and decoration with incense to indirectly add fragrance to clothes in the same period. In association, the study examined how incense was used to preserve costume, what kinds of incense and herbs were used to make fragrant and mothproof clothes and the materials and how to manufacture incense which were used for the fragrance and moth-proofness. Findings of the study can be described as follows.
Huneui is classified into two ways, using the fragrance of unburned incense(薰衣), that is, Balsanhyang(發散香) and using smokes from burned incense(熏衣). In case that Balsanhyang is used, unburned incense is covered by sort of an auxiliary device or lid, that is, Hunrong(熏籠). Then, clothes are put on the surface of Hunrong for a few hours in other that the fragrance of the incense can permeate into the clothes.
In case that using smokes from burned incense, is also classified into two another ways, using an incense burner only and using both the burner and Hunrong. In the former way, a person who is dressed makes his hands near from the burner, making the fragrance of burned incense permeate into his clothes through the sleeves. In case that both the burner and Hunrong is used, the former is covered by the latter. Then, clothes, which are not worn, are spreaded over the surface of Hunrong in order to be permeated into by the fragrance of incense.
Paesik means carrying and decoration with incense on the body. Means of Paesik for men include Hyangdae(香帶), in which incense is put around a waist belt, Hyangyoungja(香纓子), in which incense decorating a hat, Hyangnang(香囊), which is a pouch containing incense, and Hyangseonchu(香扇錘), which is a folding fan whose end tip is decorated with incense. While, those for women include Hyangnang and Hyangnorigae which are also used as decorative accessories.
Hyangang has two shapes, round and rectangular. Hangnorigae and Hyangseonchu are classified into six styles in accordance with the technique of decoration applied to their main body. Specifically, there are Embroidery style(刺繡形), Chilbo style(七寶形), in which glaze or pigments are applied to the main body that in turn is burned in a furnace, Pyeon style(編形), in which the main body is woven with metal wires plated with gold or silver or with horsehair, Tugak style(透刻形), in which the main body is punched and then patterns are incarnated on it, Apin style(押印形), in which the main body has incense that is made in a uniform shape by using a fixed molding frame, and Gwan style(串形), in which the incense is connected through threads to the main body.
The above mentioned means of Paesik were usually colored with the Five Main Colors, or Obang color, among which red was mostly used because it strongly symbolized exorcism. In terms of material, Hyangnang was usually made of fabrics, Hyangnorigae and Hyangseonchu were usually made of gold, silver, jewels, horsehair and fabrics. Those means of Paesik usually had auspicious patterns symbolizing wishes for individual and family happiness.
Yaknang(藥囊) is a pouch that was used in the Joseon period to contain medicines which were taken in through the mouth or inhaled through the nose. Presumedly, Yaknang was sometimes used to contain fragrant medicinal materials like elecampane(靑木香), cloves(丁香), betony(藿香), aloeswood(沈香) and frankincense(乳香) or medicines made of those materials. In this case, Yaknang was certainly another Hyangnang.
For costume preservation in the Joseon period, incense smokes, Seeuihyang(洗衣香), which means adding incense when boiling, washing or rinsing clothes with waters, and Balsanhyang were generally used. Incense smokes was used in a way that clothes are exposed to smokes from burned incense in order that moths can be removed from the clothes. Seeuihyang was used in a way that clothes ar washed with waters mixed with incense or that incense is added to starch for clothes. And Balsanhyang was used in a way that incense is inserted between clothes or put in clothing boxes.
Euihyang(衣香) was used in various applications, for example, stuffs necessary for diplomatic relations, reception for envoys, portrait scroll cases, palanquin for the royal family and royal costume boxes. Euihyang was in most cases used to give fragrance, but much helped removing moths because it contains Palgakhyang(八角香) and cloves both of which are very high in sterilization and moth-proofness.
There were 12 common materials of incense that was used to make clothes fragrant and mothproof in the Joseon period, which include aloeswood, musk, Yeongronghyang(寧陵香), spikenard, refined Borneo, Palgakhyang(八角香), fennel, Blettila striata or Baekgeup(白芨), Baekji(白芷) and Samnaeja(三乃子). These materials themselves are all incense and resistant to moths and germs.
Concerning the manufacturing method of incense, this researcher examined how to manufacture Buyonghyang(芙蓉香), Maewhahyang(梅花香) and Euihyang.
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