전통한지를 활용한 패션 악세서리 상품개발 (제3보) -직접염료를 이용한 한지의 염색- A Study of the Fashion Accessory Product Development by Use of Korean Traditional Hanji (Part III) -Dyeing of Hanji with Direct Dye-원문보기
의복재료로서 한지를 더 효율적으로 사용하기 위해, 직접염료를 이용하여 한지를 염색하였다. 한지의 주성분은 면, 마와 같은 셀룰로오스이지만, 많은 불순물을 포함하고 있고, 섬유제품과 내부구조와 표면구조가 다르므로, 다른 염색거동을 보일 수 있다. 또, 물을 흡수하면 한지의 물성은 크게 저하하므로, 염색 과정에 의해 강도가 변화될 가능성이 있다. 따라서, 본 연구에서는 직접염료를 이용한 한지의 염색특성을 셀룰로오스 섬유인 면, 마와 비교하여 고찰하고, 염색에 따른 인장강도 변화를 살펴보았으며, 염료의 물에 의한 블리딩 및 일광 견뢰도를 평가하였다. 직접염료로 한지를 염색할 때, 한지는 $25^{\circ}C$에서 최대흡진율을 보인 반면, 면과 저마는 $60^{\circ}C$에서 최대흡진율을 보였으며, 염색 후, 한지의 인장강도는 감소하였다. 낮은 온도에서 염색하였을 때 블리딩이 컸고, 염색한 한지의 K/S 값이 크면 블리딩 이 커지는 경향을 보였다. 직접염료로 염색한 한지의 일광견뢰도는 면, 마에 비해 떨어지지 않았다.
의복재료로서 한지를 더 효율적으로 사용하기 위해, 직접염료를 이용하여 한지를 염색하였다. 한지의 주성분은 면, 마와 같은 셀룰로오스이지만, 많은 불순물을 포함하고 있고, 섬유제품과 내부구조와 표면구조가 다르므로, 다른 염색거동을 보일 수 있다. 또, 물을 흡수하면 한지의 물성은 크게 저하하므로, 염색 과정에 의해 강도가 변화될 가능성이 있다. 따라서, 본 연구에서는 직접염료를 이용한 한지의 염색특성을 셀룰로오스 섬유인 면, 마와 비교하여 고찰하고, 염색에 따른 인장강도 변화를 살펴보았으며, 염료의 물에 의한 블리딩 및 일광 견뢰도를 평가하였다. 직접염료로 한지를 염색할 때, 한지는 $25^{\circ}C$에서 최대흡진율을 보인 반면, 면과 저마는 $60^{\circ}C$에서 최대흡진율을 보였으며, 염색 후, 한지의 인장강도는 감소하였다. 낮은 온도에서 염색하였을 때 블리딩이 컸고, 염색한 한지의 K/S 값이 크면 블리딩 이 커지는 경향을 보였다. 직접염료로 염색한 한지의 일광견뢰도는 면, 마에 비해 떨어지지 않았다.
To utilize hanji for fashion accessory efficiently, dyeability of Hanji should be improved. Though Hanji mostly consists of cellulose such as cotton and ramie, also has various impurities, and has the different internal and surface structure from textile materials. Because of them, Hanji might show ...
To utilize hanji for fashion accessory efficiently, dyeability of Hanji should be improved. Though Hanji mostly consists of cellulose such as cotton and ramie, also has various impurities, and has the different internal and surface structure from textile materials. Because of them, Hanji might show different dyeing behavior. As physical properties of Hanji are reduced in wet condition, dyeing process would damage the physical properties of Hanji Therefore, in this study, dyeing properties of Hanji using direct dye were examined in comparison with cotton and ramie. Effect of dyeing on tensile strength, and bleeding of direct dye by water from Hanji, colorfastness to light were also estimated. While Hanji showed the maximun dye exhaustion at $25^{\circ}C$, cotton and ramie showed those at $60^{\circ}C$. Tensile strength of Hanji reduced after Hanji was dyed. When Hanji was dyed at $25^{\circ}C$, the more bleeding occurred than at higher dyeing temperature. Hanji which had higher K/S values were bled more than those had lower K/S value. Colorfastness to light of Hanji dyed with direct dye was not inferior to those of cotton and ramie.
To utilize hanji for fashion accessory efficiently, dyeability of Hanji should be improved. Though Hanji mostly consists of cellulose such as cotton and ramie, also has various impurities, and has the different internal and surface structure from textile materials. Because of them, Hanji might show different dyeing behavior. As physical properties of Hanji are reduced in wet condition, dyeing process would damage the physical properties of Hanji Therefore, in this study, dyeing properties of Hanji using direct dye were examined in comparison with cotton and ramie. Effect of dyeing on tensile strength, and bleeding of direct dye by water from Hanji, colorfastness to light were also estimated. While Hanji showed the maximun dye exhaustion at $25^{\circ}C$, cotton and ramie showed those at $60^{\circ}C$. Tensile strength of Hanji reduced after Hanji was dyed. When Hanji was dyed at $25^{\circ}C$, the more bleeding occurred than at higher dyeing temperature. Hanji which had higher K/S values were bled more than those had lower K/S value. Colorfastness to light of Hanji dyed with direct dye was not inferior to those of cotton and ramie.
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가설 설정
1. In case ofHanji, Exhaustion of dyebath decreased with the increasing dyeing temperature while cotton and ramie had the highest exhaustion at 60℃.
2. The higher the dyeing temperature was, the faster the Hanji had the rate of dyeing and the lower equilibrium exhaustion.
3. Salt in dyebath accelerated dye adsorption into Hanji. Dye adsorption increased and levelled off with the increasing salt concentration.
4. Tensile strength of Hanji decreased after dyeing.
6. Colorfastness to light of dyed Hanji was not inferior to those of cotton and ramie.
In this study, we investigated the dyeing properties of Hanji with direct dye in comparison with cotton and ramie as a cellulose fiber. Effect of dyeing on the tensile strength, and bleeding of direct dye by water from Hanji, colorfastness to light were also analyzed.
참고문헌 (9)
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