유니폼의 이지오더 시스템을 위한 양방향 그레이딩 개발 -성인여성 블라우스를 중심으로- Development of Bi-directional Grading Method for Uniform Easy-order System -Focused on Blouse for Adult Female-원문보기
매스 커스터마이제이션 생산 방식이 국내외 의류산업에서 새로운 제조방식으로 확산되고 있다. 특히 국가별로 MTM, 이지오더(Easy-order) 등의 명칭으로 기성복에 소비자 체형을 반영하는 노력이 끊임없이 진행되고 있다. 유니폼은 지속적인 착용과 재구매가 예상되는 의류아이템이므로 이에 대한 사이즈 적용이 필요하다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 국내 유니폼 생산에 이지오더 시스템 방식을 도입하기 위하기 위한 사이즈 포지셔닝 시스템을 제공하고 다양한 사이즈에 맞는 의복 패턴을 제작하기 위하여 양방향 그레이딩 방식을 제안하였다. 연구결과로는 첫째, 5차 사이즈코리아 측정치를 이용하여 키와 가슴둘레에 대한 교차분석을 실시하여 다빈도 구간을 유니폼 사이즈 구간으로 설정하였다. 둘째, 인체측정치에 대한 요인 분석을 실시하여 높이, 둘레, 어깨요인으로 분류하였으며 둘레와 어깨요인을 통합하여 높이와 둘레로 측정항목을 이원화하였다. 셋째, 요인분석 결과로 이원화된 높이와 둘레항목을 각각 키와 젖가슴둘레를 독립변수로 회귀분석을 실시하였으며 회귀계수를 활용한 그레이딩룰을 산출하였다.
매스 커스터마이제이션 생산 방식이 국내외 의류산업에서 새로운 제조방식으로 확산되고 있다. 특히 국가별로 MTM, 이지오더(Easy-order) 등의 명칭으로 기성복에 소비자 체형을 반영하는 노력이 끊임없이 진행되고 있다. 유니폼은 지속적인 착용과 재구매가 예상되는 의류아이템이므로 이에 대한 사이즈 적용이 필요하다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 국내 유니폼 생산에 이지오더 시스템 방식을 도입하기 위하기 위한 사이즈 포지셔닝 시스템을 제공하고 다양한 사이즈에 맞는 의복 패턴을 제작하기 위하여 양방향 그레이딩 방식을 제안하였다. 연구결과로는 첫째, 5차 사이즈코리아 측정치를 이용하여 키와 가슴둘레에 대한 교차분석을 실시하여 다빈도 구간을 유니폼 사이즈 구간으로 설정하였다. 둘째, 인체측정치에 대한 요인 분석을 실시하여 높이, 둘레, 어깨요인으로 분류하였으며 둘레와 어깨요인을 통합하여 높이와 둘레로 측정항목을 이원화하였다. 셋째, 요인분석 결과로 이원화된 높이와 둘레항목을 각각 키와 젖가슴둘레를 독립변수로 회귀분석을 실시하였으며 회귀계수를 활용한 그레이딩룰을 산출하였다.
To provide adequate fit for women over a range of sizes, the grading process should reflect their body dimensions. Current methods of creating sized garments are not addressing the need for a good or even an adequate fit for the easy-order system. This study suggests a grading rule allocating system...
To provide adequate fit for women over a range of sizes, the grading process should reflect their body dimensions. Current methods of creating sized garments are not addressing the need for a good or even an adequate fit for the easy-order system. This study suggests a grading rule allocating system that can improve the appropriateness of clothing for uniform easy-order system. Also, the study proposes a bi-directional grading method subdivided to horizontal and vertical direction. The grading rule allocating system suggested the size increments which improve the fitness of uniform. Using the 5th Size Korea data, the crosstabulation was conducted with 1305 females in the age group $20{\sim}49$ years, and the size increments including $155\sim165$ of height section and $79\sim94$ of bust section, was selected for easy-order system. Also, the bi-directional grading method subdivided in horizontal and vertical direction was followed by factor analysis based on the circumference and height. And the grading rules were calculated by regression analysis.
To provide adequate fit for women over a range of sizes, the grading process should reflect their body dimensions. Current methods of creating sized garments are not addressing the need for a good or even an adequate fit for the easy-order system. This study suggests a grading rule allocating system that can improve the appropriateness of clothing for uniform easy-order system. Also, the study proposes a bi-directional grading method subdivided to horizontal and vertical direction. The grading rule allocating system suggested the size increments which improve the fitness of uniform. Using the 5th Size Korea data, the crosstabulation was conducted with 1305 females in the age group $20{\sim}49$ years, and the size increments including $155\sim165$ of height section and $79\sim94$ of bust section, was selected for easy-order system. Also, the bi-directional grading method subdivided in horizontal and vertical direction was followed by factor analysis based on the circumference and height. And the grading rules were calculated by regression analysis.
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제안 방법
Using the 5th Size Korea data, the crosstabulation was conducted with 1305 females in the age group 20~49 years, and the size increments including 155~165 of height section and 79~94 of bust section, was selected for easy-order system. Also, the method that can be altered according to the size increments and the bi-directional grading method subdivided to horizontal and vertical direction for grading were suggested, and the study classified detailed item followed by factor analysis base on the circumference and height. With the consequence of the result, the study conducted regression analysis on expectation of detailed body measurement with stature and bust circumference as independent variables, and suggests grading rule using the β-value.
Therefore, the study suggests a grading rule allocating system that can improve the appropriateness of clothing for uniform easy-order system. Also, the study proposes a bi-directional grading method subdivided to horizontal and vertical direction. This grading method will allow manufacturing the clothing items that is repeatedly worn and purchased such as uniform, which has appropriate fit to size of consumers' body.
Current methods of creating sized garments are not addressing the need for a good or even an adequate fit for the easy-order system. So, this study suggested the bi-directional method to change a pattern for each measurements. The grading rule was dualized for horizontal and vertical directions.
Even though this grading reflects the existing size of ready-to-wear clothing, it is hard to satisfy all the sizes in easy-order system which is comprised of various sizes. Therefore, the study subdivided the grading variation to horizontal and vertical direction according to the result of factor analysis. The Circumference factor is defined as horizontal direction, the interscye-back and posterior shoulder length are integrated as horizontal direction since they are linked with the items which is included in circumference factor during grading.
Therefore, the study suggests a grading rule allocating system that can improve the appropriateness of clothing for uniform easy-order system. Also, the study proposes a bi-directional grading method subdivided to horizontal and vertical direction.
To manufacture these various sizes, the solution that overcomes the existing linear grading is needed. Therefore, the study suggests the bi-directional grading method subdivided to horizontal and vertical directions for grading various sizes composed by bust circumference and stature.
This study developed the grading rule allocating system covering various body size based on stature and bust circumference, which are important body measurements and show the volume of body. This grading rule allocating system suggested the size increments which improve the fitness of uniform.
With the consequence of the result, the study conducted regression analysis on expectation of detailed body measurement with stature and bust circumference as independent variables, and suggests grading rule using the β-value.
대상 데이터
For the study, the measurement data of 1305 females in the age group 20~49 years were selected from database of the 5th Size Korea (Korean Agency for Technology and Standards, 2004). A total of 21 measurements were used to statistical analysis. These included 5 heights, 5 circumferences, 10 lengths, and 1 width measurement, which are reference size for manufacturing an upper garment.
For the study, the measurement data of 1305 females in the age group 20~49 years were selected from database of the 5th Size Korea (Korean Agency for Technology and Standards, 2004). A total of 21 measurements were used to statistical analysis.
데이터처리
According to the factor analysis, the regression analysis was conducted with stature and bust circumference as independent variables for each vertical and horizontal dimension. For the regression analysis, the age groups were classified as 20s, 30s and 40s.
The criteria to sort grading items to vertical and horizontal directions were adopted from factor analysis results. Grading rules were calculated by the result of regression analysis. For the statistical analysis, SPSSWIN 12.
이론/모형
Based on KS standard of adult women's size, the size increments of bust circumference and stature was analyzed with crosstabulation analysis method.
후속연구
In addition, this research couldn't present verification about improvement of uniform fitness since the proposed grading rule allocating system stays as an experimental methodology. Once the proposed grading rule in this study is validated in practice, it is expected that the proposed method enables uniform manufacturers to gain enhanced garment fitness.
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