This study aims to discuss what changes Korean clothing companies and manufacturers have undergone with production facilities moving abroad due to offshore outsourcing and examine what conditions the clothing manufacturers are facing and how the clothing companies recognize those manufacturers. For ...
This study aims to discuss what changes Korean clothing companies and manufacturers have undergone with production facilities moving abroad due to offshore outsourcing and examine what conditions the clothing manufacturers are facing and how the clothing companies recognize those manufacturers. For these purposes, in-depth interviews were conducted with 24 firms with annual production capacity of more than 200,000 pieces among clothing brands for the domestic market, clothing exporters and promotion agencies. Those interviewed firms were the companies who were found to produce more than 200,000 pieces of clothing per year, and the interview-based survey was conducted from December 18, 2008 to January 30, 2009. The key findings from this study are as follows; first, a high percentage of interviewed firms were producing only a small number of items in Korea with a large part of their production line transferred abroad or outsourcing all of their production abroad only with their headquarters in Korea. Second, many were employing contractors rather than their own factories. Third, when asked about the wage levels of clothing manufacturers, many of the clothing companies gave responses such as: 'They are just our contractor, so we respect their decision,' 'We don't know because it's none of our business,' or 'We don't know at all.' Fourth, when asked about the work environment of clothing manufacturers, the clothing companies gave responses such as: 'We know in part,' 'To our knowledge, they conform to the Labor Standards Law,' or 'We don't know at all.' Fifth, the production line of clothing manufacturers featured straight-line systems, specialization, pairing and compounding/mixing. Sixth, it was found that clothing companies had interest in mass customization but their preparations were not satisfactory.
This study aims to discuss what changes Korean clothing companies and manufacturers have undergone with production facilities moving abroad due to offshore outsourcing and examine what conditions the clothing manufacturers are facing and how the clothing companies recognize those manufacturers. For these purposes, in-depth interviews were conducted with 24 firms with annual production capacity of more than 200,000 pieces among clothing brands for the domestic market, clothing exporters and promotion agencies. Those interviewed firms were the companies who were found to produce more than 200,000 pieces of clothing per year, and the interview-based survey was conducted from December 18, 2008 to January 30, 2009. The key findings from this study are as follows; first, a high percentage of interviewed firms were producing only a small number of items in Korea with a large part of their production line transferred abroad or outsourcing all of their production abroad only with their headquarters in Korea. Second, many were employing contractors rather than their own factories. Third, when asked about the wage levels of clothing manufacturers, many of the clothing companies gave responses such as: 'They are just our contractor, so we respect their decision,' 'We don't know because it's none of our business,' or 'We don't know at all.' Fourth, when asked about the work environment of clothing manufacturers, the clothing companies gave responses such as: 'We know in part,' 'To our knowledge, they conform to the Labor Standards Law,' or 'We don't know at all.' Fifth, the production line of clothing manufacturers featured straight-line systems, specialization, pairing and compounding/mixing. Sixth, it was found that clothing companies had interest in mass customization but their preparations were not satisfactory.
의류봉제품 및 의류 액세서리의 수출액(시장점유율)으로 우리나라의 의류봉제산업의 위상을 살펴보면 1980년대에는 홍콩과 이탈리아에 이어 세계 3위였으나, 1990년대는 세계 5위, 1995년에는 세계 9위로 하락하였다. 이러한 침체는 현재까지 이어지고 있는 것으로 나타났다(백영하, 박재옥, 2008).
국내 의류봉제업체들이 생산기지를 이동한 이유는?
우리나라에서도 의류봉제업체들은 주문자생산방식(OEM)의 생산에만 주력하다가 점점 커져가는 내수시장에 초점을 맞추어 자체 브랜드를 개발하였고, 더 나아가서는 자신들의 브랜드로 수출을 하는 단계에까지 이르게 되었다. 이러한 변화와 더불어 자본 및 기술력을 기반으로 하는 고부가가치 산업들이 발달하면서 인건비가 상승하였고, 더 이상 싼 가격만으로는 국제경쟁력을 가질 수 없는 상황이 되었다. 결과적으로 국내 의류봉제업체들은 자국에서의 생산을 축소하고, 해외소싱 또는 직접투자를 이용하여 값싼 노동력이 제공되는 나라로 생산기지를 이동하였다.
우리나라의 의류봉제산업 발전양상은 어떤 형태를 보이는가?
우리나라의 의류봉제산업 발전양상은 경제개발을 꾀하는 많은 나라들이 거치는 전형적인 산업 발전 형태를 보이고 있다. 즉, 노동집약적인 의류봉제산업은 값싼 노동력이 풍부하지만 상대적으로 기술력은 부족한 개발도상국들이 산업화를 시도할 때 가장 쉽게 진입할 수 있는 산업이기 때문이다(Dickerson, 1999).
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