This article explores 1940's fashion. Much has been documented about the huge influence Dior's 1947 New Look had on fashionable clothing, as the industry conspired to reinvent itself as an economic and cultural power after World War II. The introduction of highly feminised and luxurious styles reins...
This article explores 1940's fashion. Much has been documented about the huge influence Dior's 1947 New Look had on fashionable clothing, as the industry conspired to reinvent itself as an economic and cultural power after World War II. The introduction of highly feminised and luxurious styles reinstated fashion as a viable concern globally and has arguably been recognised as the defining style of the 1940's. During World War II the fashion system of design, manufacture and export within the western world, virtually ceased. Many dress historians (Arnold, 2008; Breward, 1997; Guenther, 2004; McDowell, 1997; Robinson, 1976; Taylor, 1992; Steele, 1998; Veillon, 2002; Walford, 2008; Wilson & Taylor; 1989) have suggested that fashion ideas froze from 1939 to 1947. Deeper research identifies that during this period of style and trend starvation, many diverse and interesting design ideas arose from the restrictions imposed and Veillon (2002, p.145), has suggested that this period instigated what we now identify as Street Style (Polhemus, 2010). This research investigates the diversity of design ideas produced between 1939-1947 in order to establish whether pre or post 1947 can be upheld as the definitive 1940's look, one that influences contemporary fashion designers and one that we identify with as a conclusive style today.
This article explores 1940's fashion. Much has been documented about the huge influence Dior's 1947 New Look had on fashionable clothing, as the industry conspired to reinvent itself as an economic and cultural power after World War II. The introduction of highly feminised and luxurious styles reinstated fashion as a viable concern globally and has arguably been recognised as the defining style of the 1940's. During World War II the fashion system of design, manufacture and export within the western world, virtually ceased. Many dress historians (Arnold, 2008; Breward, 1997; Guenther, 2004; McDowell, 1997; Robinson, 1976; Taylor, 1992; Steele, 1998; Veillon, 2002; Walford, 2008; Wilson & Taylor; 1989) have suggested that fashion ideas froze from 1939 to 1947. Deeper research identifies that during this period of style and trend starvation, many diverse and interesting design ideas arose from the restrictions imposed and Veillon (2002, p.145), has suggested that this period instigated what we now identify as Street Style (Polhemus, 2010). This research investigates the diversity of design ideas produced between 1939-1947 in order to establish whether pre or post 1947 can be upheld as the definitive 1940's look, one that influences contemporary fashion designers and one that we identify with as a conclusive style today.
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문제 정의
The research focuses upon the period 1939–1947 in female, western fashion.
The costume collections included other artifacts related to the garments such as a 1943 photograph from The Imperial War Museum. This depicts pupils from a London County Council dressmaking class holding a fashion show to demonstrate how they had reconstructed garments during the Make do and Mend campaign. Interestingly the ideas were all been transplanted onto the prevailing boxy, short-skirted silhouette of the early 1940’s.
제안 방법
In its display of garments, the exhibition described the journey from sinuous 1930’s glamour, through to shoulder padded wartime gravity and the full-skirted New Look.
In order to identify the different stylistic characteristics of pre and post 1947 styles in western female fashion, the research focuses on historical analysis, a brief study of 1940’s garments, fashion designers inspired by the forties, fashion students’ work and 1940’s vintage consumers in order to establish whether pre or post 1947 could be upheld as the definitive forties look.
Participant observation at a vintage 1940’s weekend in the village of Haworth, in the Yorkshire region of the UK, provided an opportunity to scrutinize how people interpreted a forties look through the way they dressed for the event.
Dior’s highly feminized clothes were the opposite of homemade, boxy wartime fashions. The look featured, a full bust, sloping shoulders, and a tiny corseted waist above full circle, ankle length skirts. As rationing was still a force in many countries, the collection caused an outrage.
145) Street styles set fashion trends and this reached its zenith with the ‘Liberation of Paris’ in 1944, when women celebrated in their finery on the actual streets. The revelry was epitomised by young women wearing victory frocks, made in boxy forties styles from English, German, French and Russian flags and worn with wedge shoes and unmanicured, frizzy hair.
This assesses predominant forties styles and their legacy to the fashion industry and is contextualized through an historical overview of the period, a study of original 1940’s garments, analysis of forties influences on contemporary fashion designers, scrutiny of fashion students’ work and an evaluation of styles at a 1940’s vintage event.
대상 데이터
I analyzed photographs of approximately 500 different collections within this timescale in order to identify how many had been inspired by the 1940’s. I also devised a short questionnaire that was sent to over two hundred fashion students in a university fashion department. The questions attempted to identify how burgeoning fashion specialists defined 1940’s looks.
The costume collections included other artifacts related to the garments such as a 1943 photograph from The Imperial War Museum. This depicts pupils from a London County Council dressmaking class holding a fashion show to demonstrate how they had reconstructed garments during the Make do and Mend campaign.
The fashion show featured amongst others a Mrs. Johnson, wearing a restructured version of her wedding dress bought twenty years previously and a Mrs. Hill, sporting a skirt constructed from a pair of postman’s trousers.
참고문헌 (33)
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