[논문]Indigo Dyeing of Mongolian Cashmere Fiber

Narantuya, Lkhagva; Ahn, Cheunsoon

doi:10.5850/jksct.2016.40.6.979

[국내논문] Indigo Dyeing of Mongolian Cashmere Fiber 원문보기

한국의류학회지 = Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, v.40 no.6, 2016년, pp.979 - 993

Narantuya, Lkhagva (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Graduate School, Incheon National University) , Ahn, Cheunsoon (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Graduate School, Incheon National University)

Abstract ▼ AI-Helper

Mongolian cashmere sliver, yarn, and fabric were dyed and bleached with a solution of ascorbic acid and iron sulfate at $70^{\circ}C$, and then dyed using natural indigo powder at the dyeing temperature of $25^{\circ}C$ to $90^{\circ}C$ for 15-90 minutes using the IR dyeing machine. K/S values of bleached samples decreased significantly when dyed above $70^{\circ}C$ dyeing temperature for a longer dyeing time. Bleached cashmere fabric showed a greater loss of tensile strength than unbleached cashmere fabric, even when the samples were dyed at $40^{\circ}C$. With a higher dyeing temperature, yarns lost fullness, became thinner, and the pores between the yarns were enlarged. The x-ray diffraction pattern exhibited a prominent increase in crystallinity and the protein assay indicated a loss of protein in the bleached sample dyed at $90^{\circ}C$. Thinning of scales, fractured or raised tip of scales, and roughness on the entire surface of the fiber were also observed. The results indicate that bleaching and high temperature dyeing cause a serious damage to cashmere fibers. In addition, bleaching and high temperature dyeing cause significant fiber damage. Natural indigo dyeing using low temperature dyeing is recommended to produce blue color cashmere.

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문제 정의

Now, natural indigo powder which is sold as commercial product makes it possible to practice indigo dyeing all year around in any part of the world (Oh & Ahn, 2011). With this background, the purpose of this research was to investigate the indigo dyeing of naturally pigmented Mongolian cashmere fibers without the prior bleaching process.

제안 방법

The analysis was carried out on the unbleached and bleached cashmere fabric samples which were dyed at 25-90°C dyeing temperature for 60 minutes.
The diameter of yarn within the fabric was measured using the micrometer scale of Stereo Microscope computer program. The measurement was taken on both warp and weft yarns at 100X at 10 different areas within a single yarn and the average value was used for the thickness of a single yarn.
Colorfastness to sunlight and colorfastness to perspiration were tested according to the standard tests KS K ISO 105-B01 and KS K ISO 105-E04, respectively. The samples were visually evaluated in the light box (Spectrum Light 204, Han Won Soway Co., Korea) under daylight illumination using the Grey Scale for color staining and color change (JIS L 0805, Japan Standard Association, Japan).
The color of each sample was measured 3 times and the average values of K/S, L*a*b*, and Munsell HVC were reported in this study. Whiteness Index (WI) and Yellowness Index (YI) values were calculated in order to evaluate the effect of bleaching, the former based on the L*a*b* values [Eq. 1] and the latter based on the XYZ values [Eq. 2] of the CIE LAB color system.
X-ray diffraction analysis was conducted on the fabric samples using the HR-XRD (SmartLab, Rigaku Co., Japan). A CuKα radiation was used at a wave-length of 1.

대상 데이터

Cashmere samples used in this study were purchased from the Mongolian company ‘Gobi’ and they were fabric, yarn, or sliver with naturally light grey or brown color (Table 1)−(Table 2).
Sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate and ethanol (75%) were purchased from Daejung Chemicals & Metals (Korea). Sodium chloride, chloroform, and methanol were purchased from DC Chemical (Korea), Tedia Company (USA), and Avantor Performance Materials (USA), respectively. Trizma base, urea, 2-mercaptoethanol, bovine serum albumin (BSA) were purchased from Sigma-aldrich (USA).
Natural indigo powder dye was Indian origin and it was purchased from Arts and Crafts (Korea). Sodium hydroxide, sodium hydrosulfite, 35% hydrogen peroxide, ascorbic acid, histidine monohydrochloride, and thiourea were purchased from Junsei Chemical (Japan). Iron sulfate and disodiumhydrogen phosphate dihydrate were purchased from Shinyo Pure Chemicals (Japan).
Surface characteristics of the fabric samples was examined at 150X using the Stereo Microscope (Sometech SV-35, Korea). A scanning electron microscope (JEOL JSM 7001 FE-SEM, Japan) was used to examine the surface characteristics of fibers within the fabric at 2,500X.

이론/모형

Colorfastness to washing was tested according to the standard colorfastness test (KS K 0430). However, wool shampoo was used instead of the standard detergent to simulate the general washing methods used for cashmere products in Mongolian households.
Protein of cashmere fabric samples was analyzed using the Shindai method of protein extraction (Nakamura et al., 2002) and Bradford Protein Assay (Ernst & Zor, 2010).
Tensile strength of yarn and fabric samples were measured using the Tensile Strength Tester following the ASTM D5035 method (SGA-0-0310, Shingang Precision Ind Co., Ltd, Korea). For each sample, 3 specimens were tested and the average value was reported in the study.
The concentration of protein in the samples was calculated using the linear regression equation derived from the UV-Visible absorbances (Perkin-Elmer, λ 25 UV-Visable spectrophotometer) of 0-0.04mg/5mL assay of bovine serum albumin at 595nm.

성능/효과

9 before and after bleaching. The data indicated that the effect of bleaching on the degree of whiteness and yellowness was highly related to the natural pigmentation of cashmere samples. The brown sliver became whiter after bleaching, but at the same time it became yellower since the decrease in the brown shade made the sample yellower than the sample before bleaching.

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