[논문]Dyeing Behavior of Silk Dyed with Indigo Leaf Powder Using Reduction and Nonreduction Dyeing and Its Relationship with the Amount of Indigotin and Indirubin Adsorbed in Silk

Yoo, Wansong; Ahn, Cheunsoon

doi:10.5850/jksct.2019.43.5.753

Dyeing Behavior of Silk Dyed with Indigo Leaf Powder Using Reduction and Nonreduction Dyeing and Its Relationship with the Amount of Indigotin and Indirubin Adsorbed in Silk 원문보기

한국의류학회지 = Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, v.43 no.5, 2019년, pp.753 - 767

Yoo, Wansong (Dept. of Fashion Industry, Incheon National University) , Ahn, Cheunsoon (Dept. of Fashion Industry, Incheon National University)

Abstract ▼ AI-Helper

Dyeing behavior of indigo leaf powder was examined in regards to the effect of the amount of pigments on color and dye adsorption for silk dyed by reduction and nonreduction dyeing. The amount of indigotin and indirubin pigments adsorbed in dyed silk was examined by HPLC-DAD analysis. The color of dyed silk showed 7.7BG - 2.7B hue when silk was dyed at $50^{\circ}C$, and 3.5G - 4.9BG when dyed at $70^{\circ}C$. Blue ($b^*$) and green ($a^*$) color decreased as the pH of dyebath increased. When silk was dyed using nonreduction, R (red) and RP (red purple) hue and R hue was more apparent in samples dyed at $90^{\circ}C$. In reduction dyeing, amount of indigotin detected from silk exceeded the amount that was initially contained in the input dye. The amount of indirubin was lower than indirubin that was initially in the powder. In nonreduction dyeing, silk showed a higher amount of indirubin adsorption compared to silk dyed by reduction. The amount of indigotin adsorbed in silk was lower than the amount initially contained in the input dye. The amount of indigotin and indirubin adsorption was primarily dependent upon the dyeing method-reduction or nonreduction along with dyeing temperature and the pH of dyebath.

주제어

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문제 정의

The purpose of this research was to examine the dyeing behavior of indigo leaf powder in regard to how indigotin and indirubin pigments within the leaf powder contribute to dye adsorption and color of dyed fiber.

가설 설정

5. In reduction dyeing, B hue appeared when there was higher amount of both indigotin and indirubin adsorbed in silk. G hue appeared when there was least amount of indigotin and/or indirubin adsorbed in silk and when the K/S value was very low.
7. Indigo leaf powder produced red hue in silk through nonreduction dyeing using dyeing temperature above 70°C, or using 50°C with pH of dyebath higher than 9.
In this research, indigo leaf powder was selected as the source of indigo dye to examine how indigotin and indirubin actually contribute to the color of dyed fiber and whether their contribution changes by dyeing conditions. For the purpose, a commercial product of indigo leaf powder with Indian origin was purchased and used to dye silk through reduction and nonreduction methods using different dyeing temperature and pH.

제안 방법

A 10 mg/L solution each of indigo and indirubin standard dye in DMSO solution was diluted by the fraction of 2, 4, 8, 16, and 32 times and analyzed using the HPLC instrument. [Fig.
A 4 cm × 5 cm sized silk sample was dyed in each dyebath at 50o C, 70o C, and 90o C for 30 minutes.
HPLC analysis was conducted on the indigo leaf powder selected for this study. It was confirmed that the indigo leaf powder contained indigotin pigment through a peak at Rt 9.
In order to analyze the amount of indigotin and indirubin pigments in indigo leaf powder and dyed silk samples, indigo and indirubin standard dyes were analyzed using the HPL-DAD instrument. Calibration graphs of detected indigotin and indirubin were generated based on the HPLC data.
0000) for indirubin were obtained. These regression equations were used to calculate the amount of indigo tin and indirubin pigments adsorbed in the dyed silk samples.
9999) for indirubin where x is the concentration and y is the relative abundance of the peak obtained from HPLC analysis. These regression equations were used to calculate the amount of indigotin and indirubin pigments inindigo leaf powders.

대상 데이터

5% formic acid) and buffer B (acetonitrile), and the gradient mode was 0 - 10 minutes A:B 75:25, 10 - 16 minutes A:B 10:90, and 16- 20 minutes A:B 75:25 during the total runtime 20 minutes. Detection wavelength for the DAD was set for 288 nm, 540 nm, 604 nm with the total scanning done in 190 - 800 nm range.
50 g/100 cm2 . Methanol (HPLC grade) and dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO, HPLC grade) were purchased from J. T. Baker (U.S.A.). Sodium hydrosulfite and sodium hydroxide were purchased from Junsei Chemical (Japan).
) and were used as standard indigotin and standard indirubin for the HPLC analysis. Silk fabric used for dyeing was purchased from Sombe (Korea). Specifications of the fabric were; density 122×117/inch2 , thickness 0.
Specifications of the fabric were; density 122×117/inch2 , thickness 0.10 mm, and weight 0.50 g/100 cm2 .
Indigo leaf powder (100% leaves) produced in India was purchased from Art & Crafts (Korea). Synthetic indigo (CAS 482-89-3, 262.26 g/mol) and indirubin (CAS 479-41-4, 262.27 g/mol) were purchased from Sigma-Aldrich (U.S.A.) and were used as standard indigotin and standard indirubin for the HPLC analysis. Silk fabric used for dyeing was purchased from Sombe (Korea).

이론/모형

Indigo leaf powder produced red hue in silk through nonreduction dyeing using dyeing temperature above 70°C, or using 50°C with pH of dyebath higher than 9. Red hue was due to indirubin pigment in indigo plant and its active adsorption when silk was dyed by nonreduction method.

성능/효과

2. By nonreduction dyeing, silk exhibited RP hue and some R hue while there were a few B (blue), PB, and P hue as well. 50.
3. Dye adsorption (K/S value) was overall low in all samples with the highest K/S value of 1.56 observed when silk was dyed at 90o C and pH 7 using nonreduction method. In reduction dyeing, the highest K/S value resulted when silk was dyed at 70o C and pH 10.
By nonreduction dyeing, silk exhibited RP hue and some R hue while there were a few B (blue), PB, and P hue as well. 50.0% of the samples showed RP hue and 16.7% showed R hue, resulting in 66.7% of the samples that expressed some degrees of R hue in their colors.
It was confirmed that the indigo leaf powder contained indigotin pigment through a peak at Rt 9.15 min and its UV-Vis spectrum with maximum absorbance (λmax) at 604 nm, and also contained indirubin pigment through a peak at Rt 9.58 min and its UV-Vis spectrum with maximum absorbance at 540 nm (Fig. 3).

참고문헌 (14)

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상세보기
IndiaMART. (1996-2019). Natural Indigo Leaves Powder. India-MART. Retrieved from https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/natural-indigo-leaves-powder-1259321397.html
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상세보기
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원문보기 상세보기
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원문보기 상세보기
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원문보기 상세보기
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원문보기 상세보기
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