[논문]A Comprehensive Study for Two Damage Sites of Human Hair upon UV-B Damage

Song, Sang-Hun; Son, Seongkil; Kang, Nae Gyu

doi:10.15230/scsk.2020.2.1.1

A Comprehensive Study for Two Damage Sites of Human Hair upon UV-B Damage 원문보기

Korean journal of cosmetic science, v.2 no.1, 2020년, pp.1 - 10

Song, Sang-Hun (LG Household & Health Care, E10 LG Science Park) , Son, Seongkil (LG Household & Health Care, E10 LG Science Park) , Kang, Nae Gyu (LG Household & Health Care, E10 LG Science Park)

Abstract ▼ AI-Helper

Protection mechanisms for skin damage of ultraviolet (UV) absorbers in personal care products for protection against UV are well studied, but not for hair protection. The purpose of this study is to describe and compare the changes of physical property produced in human hair by doses of the UV-B exposure causing protein degradation. To observe the change of physical properties in hair, the experimental intensity of UV-B exposure has been established on the basis of statistical data from official meterological administration as daily one hour sunlight exposure for two weeks. Polysilicone-15, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), and octocrylene were employed for UV-B absorber, and those were treated to hair swatch by rubbing wash through shampoo and conditioner. Bending rigidity displayed kinetically successive reduction at high doses of UV exposure up to the 8,000 s, and exhibited different level at each sample of UV-B absorber. However, the values of Bossa Nova Technologies (BNT) for shinning factor were already saturable at the 2,000 s exposure except that treated with polysilicone-15. The differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) to measure a strength of inner protein produces a successive reduction of enthalpy as like a reduction of bending rigidity upon UV exposure. Surface roughness from lateral force microscope (LFM) acquired immediately after UV exposure show a saturable frictional voltage which has been also found in a saturable BNT data as the time of UV exposure increases. Through researching the DSC and the LFM, shinning of hair was much correlated to the protein damage at the surface, and bending rigidity could be regulated by the protein structural damage inside hair. Therefore, the optimization of efficient strategy for simultaneous prevention of hair protein on the surface and internal hair was required to maintain physical properties against UV.

주제어

표/그림 (7)

그림 Figure 1. Time dependence of solar energy in Seoul. Data were averaged solar i ntensity for 30 years f rom Korean Meteorological Administration. The error bar amplitude indicates standard deviation (N = 30).
그림 Figure 2. Bending moment of the virgin hair and the hair after UV-B exposure with I = 350 mJ/cm² for 8,000 s. To evaluate a bending rigidity a connection line at either end of point was depicted as dashed line. The slope of dashed line indicates alteration of the bending moment as the hair swatches is experienced by torque.
표 Table 1. Averaged bending rigidity upon UV exposure. The bending rigidity was obtained from the slope of the curve in Figure 2. Blanket indicates standard deviation (N = 5).
그림 Scheme 1. Chemical structures of polysilicone-15, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, and octocrylene.
그림 Figure 3. The shinning factor represented by normalized BNT was assessed upon the hair swatches after washing treatment with three UV-B absorbers. Temporal shinning signals upon UV exposure are shown in solid curve. Intensity of UV-B was 350 mJ/cm². The error bar amplitude of standard deviation was inserted to each experimental data from three different hair swatchs.
그림 Figure 4. DSC curves of the hair samples used to calculate the change of enthalpy caused by UV-B damage. Endothermic peaks for an α-helix structure are displayed in black and enthalpy in grey. I_exc = 350 mJ/cm² for UV-B.
그림 Figure 5. Observation of hair morphology and surface lateral force by AFM. (A) The morphology of hair treated. (B) LFM image simultaneously obtained as the morphology was scanned. (C) Kinetic analysis of the damage hair using LFM correlated with smoothness of the surface upon UV exposure (N = 10, 5 hair swatches and 2 points at each hair sample). Hair treated with ethylhexyl methoxycinnmate as well as for the hairs which were treated with the polysilicone-15 and octocrylene in the same way are exhibited. Solid lines are fitting curves by exponential function.

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문제 정의

The purpose of this paper is to describe and compare the change of physical properties produced in human hair by doses of UV radiation in Korean summer causing similar degrees of dermal damage. The investigation of the period of Korean people’s daily hours of sunshine exposure revealed that most Koreans have been exposed from 60 min to 90 min, and the second response was from 30 min to 60 min in summer (data not shown).
UV absorbers frequently used in sunscreens, are capable of either penetrating the scalp or entering pore may be even more dangerous than UV-B radiation. This study investigated the UV protective efficiency for hair. In future, prognostic values of a repeated treatment performed at different days has to be inspected to lots of people without scalp disease.

가설 설정

Averaged bending rigidity upon UV exposure. The bending rigidity was obtained from the slope of the curve in Figure 2. Blanket indicates standard deviation (N = 5).

제안 방법

LFM spectral measurements were conducted using an atomic force microscope (AFM) of XE-100 (Parksystems, Korea). LFM images of hair was produced to compare its nanoscale topography before and after prolonged UV exposure.
This suggests that UV exposure induced damage of hair structure. On the assumption that UV ex-posure reduces the bending properties, further experiment was performed to find another alteration of physical property by UV exposure.
The change of surface morphology by UV absorber was evaluated by measuring the friction of the surface with an AFM. The laterally repulsive force is generated when the AFM tip attempts to moves the hair surface by moving horizontally.
The shinning value was represented to BNT value determined by the BNT software using equation 1. The measurement was performed on three swatches, and the hair swatch was strictly fixed on the sample holder during the UV exposure.
Therefore, recognition of harmful effects of UV-B radiation demands a protection against UV-B, and a study of quantification of physical properties of hair by sunscreens. Generally, sunscreens are emulsion consists of several organic UV absorbers.
The investigation of the period of Korean people’s daily hours of sunshine exposure revealed that most Koreans have been exposed from 60 min to 90 min, and the second response was from 30 min to 60 min in summer (data not shown). This study has been designed to measure the change of hair property in two weeks of summer on the assumption that daily exposure time is 60 min. Therefore, total exposed time for the two weeks is around 50, 000 s due to 3, 600 s/day multiply by 14 days.

후속연구

In future, the structural analysis will be focused on topographical changes indicative of damage on the surface, as well as a cross section view analysis to assess possible internal changes.

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