[논문]Effects of Linear and Nonlinear Shear Deformation on Measurement for Stickiness of Cosmetics Using Rotational Rheometer

Bae, Jung-Eun; Ryoo, Joo-Yeon; Kang, Nae-Gyu

doi:10.15230/scsk.2020.2.1.33

Effects of Linear and Nonlinear Shear Deformation on Measurement for Stickiness of Cosmetics Using Rotational Rheometer 원문보기

Korean journal of cosmetic science, v.2 no.1, 2020년, pp.33 - 46

Bae, Jung-Eun (LG Household & Health Care, E10 LG Science Park) , Ryoo, Joo-Yeon (LG Household & Health Care, E10 LG Science Park) , Kang, Nae-Gyu (LG Household & Health Care, E10 LG Science Park)

Abstract ▼ AI-Helper

Cosmetics are representative complex fluids, and there have been many studies focusing on the correlation between the rheological properties and sensory attributes. Various instrumental measurements have been suggested to evaluate the sensory attributes, and one of the most common instruments is Texture Analyzer (TA). Although it is reported that the adhesiveness measured by TA is related to the stickiness of cosmetics, there exists reproducibility problem because measurements with TA are sensitive to application conditions. In this study, an instrumental protocol using rotational rheometer has been set up to measure the stickiness of cosmetics. This protocol consists of two steps. The first step is a preconditioning step, and various types of shear deformations are applied to the samples. The next step is the extensional flow and the axial force is measured. When the amplitude of the shear flow corresponded to the linear viscoelastic region, the axial force is the same as those without preconditioning. On the other hand, an axial force decreases as variation nonlinearity increases. It is because the effects of microstructure changes caused by nonlinear deformation affects the extensional flow. It is worth noting that a new protocol facilitates to evaluate the stickiness of cosmetics in a more systematic way.

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표/그림 (12)

그림 Figure 1. Linear and nonlinear responses to the sinusoidal input stress. (A) sinusoidal input stress and output strain; (B) Lissajous–Bowditch plot of (A); (C) Fourier intensities of (A); (D) non-sinusoidal strain response to the sinusoidal input stress; (E) Lissajous-Bowditch plot of (D); (F) Fourier intensities of (D).
그림 Figure 2. Flow chart of a procedure for measuring axial forces according to the different preconditioning steps: waiting for equilibrium, step shear at a constant shear rate, and oscillatory shear flow with small or large amplitudes.
그림 Figure 3. Schematic description of (A) gap size and (B) measured axial force curves as a function of time.
그림 Figure 4. Simple description of axial force curve as a function of time measured by TA.
그림 Figure 5. (A) Complex modulus and (B) phase angle as a function of shear stress under oscillatory shear flow with ω = 1 rad/s.
그림 Figure 6. (A) Storage and Loss moduli of product A as a function of shear stress. The Lissajous-Bowditch plots is plotted by the normalized strain versus the normalized stress at (B) 1 Pa, (C) 10 Pa, (D) 100 Pa and (E) 175 Pa.
표 Table 1. Viscoelastic Variables under Oscillatory Shear of σ = 1 Pa and ω = 1 rad/s
그림 Figure 7. Axial force as a function of time at the stage of extensional flow. The curves are vertically shifted by arbitrary shift factors, α.
표 Table 2. F_min of Samples according to Different Preconditioning Steps
표 Table 3. Parameters of Empirical Equation (13) for F_min
그림 Figure 8. F_min and h₃ as a function of shear stress for (A) product A, (B) product B; (C) product C. (D) F_min and empirical equations as functions of h₃ for all samples. Symbols are data measured by rotational rheometer. Solid, dashed, and dotted lines represent predictions based on empirical equations.
그림 Figure 9. Comparison of statistical analysis of Fmin,TA, AUC measured by TA and sensory assessment for stickiness by panel test. NS: non-significant, *p < 0.05, ** p < 0.01, *** p < 0.001

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