[논문]지방산 칼륨 Cream Soaps 의 상거동 연구

노민주; 여혜림; 이지현; 박명삼; 이준배; 윤명석

doi:10.15230/scsk.2022.48.1.55

[국내논문] 지방산 칼륨 Cream Soaps 의 상거동 연구
Phase Behavior Study of Fatty Acid Potassium Cream Soaps 원문보기

大韓化粧品學會誌 = Journal of the society of cosmetic scientists of Korea, v.48 no.1, 2022년, pp.55 - 64

노민주 (코스맥스(주) R&I center) , 여혜림 (코스맥스(주) R&I center) , 이지현 (코스맥스(주) R&I center) , 박명삼 (코스맥스(주) R&I center) , 이준배 (코스맥스(주) R&I center) , 윤명석 (코스맥스(주) R&I center)

초록
AI-Helper

Cleansing foam이라 불리는 지방산 칼륨 cream soap은 crystal gel 구조로 이루어져 있어 유화계와는 달리 전단응력에 약하며 고온의 보관조건에서 쉽게 분리되는 특성을 보여준다. Crystal gel 구조는 지방산의 종류 및 비율, 중화도, polyol의 종류와 사용량에 따라 크게 영향을 받는다. Crystal gel 구조에 미치는 이들의 영향을 조사하기 위해 water/potassium hydroxide (KOH)/fatty acid ternary system에서 실험을 실시하였다. Differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) 측정 결과 myristic acid (MA) : stearic acid (SA) = 3 : 1 비율에서 공융점(eutectic point)를 갖고 이 혼합비가 가장 안전한 삼성분계(ternary system)를 만든다는 것을 발견했다. 점도 측정과 편광현미경 (POM) 관찰 결과 중화도는 75% 부근이 최적이라고 판단된다. 삼성분계의 melting point (T_m)이 보관온도보다 높을 때, 그리고 crystal phase가 lamellar gel phase로 상 전이가 일어날 때 안정하나 지방산 함량의 증가는 안정성에 거의 영향을 미치지 않는다. 삼성분계에 polyol의 첨가는 T_m을 변화시키고 상전이를 일으키는데 중요한 역할을 한다. 클렌징폼의 구조는 저온 주사전자현미경 (Cryo-SEM), 소각 및 광각 X-선 산란 (SAXS, WAXS) 분석으로 규명하였다. Butylene glycol (BG), propylene glycol (PG), dipropylene glycol (DPG)은 T_m을 낮추어주며 lamellar gel phase 형성을 어렵게 하는 반면 glycerin, PEG-400, sorbitol은 T_m을 상승시키고 lamellar gel phase 형성을 용이하게 하며 안정한 삼성분계를 만든다.

Abstract ▼ AI-Helper

The potassium cream soap with fatty acid called cleaning foam has a crystal gel structure, and unlike an emulsion system, it is weak to shear stress and shows characteristics that are easily separated under high temperature storage conditions. The crystal gel structure of cleansing foams is significantly influenced by the nature and proportion of fatty acids, degree of neutralization, and the nature and proportion of polyols. In order to investigate the effect of these parameters on the crystal gel structure, a ternary system consisting of water/KOH/fatty acid was investigated in this study. The investigation of differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) revealed that the eutectic point was found at the ratio of myristic acid (MA) : stearic acid (SA) = 3 : 1 and ternary systems were the most stable at the eutectic point. However, the increase in fatty acid content had little effect on stability. On the basis of viscosity and polarized optical microscopy (POM) measurements, the optimum degree of neutralization was found to be about 75%. The system was stable when the melting point (Tm) of the ternary system was higher than the storage temperature and the crystal phase was transferred to lamellar gel phase, but the increase in fatty acid content had little effect on stability. The addition of polyols to the ternary system played an important role in changing the Tm and causing phase transition. The structure of the cleansing foams were confirmed through cryogenic scanning electron microscope (Cryo-SEM), small and wide angle X-ray scattering (SAXS and WAXS) analysis. Since butylene glycol (BG), propylene glycol (PG), and dipropylene glycol (DPG) lowered the Tm and hindered the lamellar gel formation, they were unsuitable for the formation of stable cleansing foam. In contrast, glycerin, PEG-400, and sorbitol increased the Tm, and facilitated the formation of lamellar gel phase, which led to a stable ternary system. Glycerin was found to be the most optimal agent to prepare a cleansing foam with enhanced stability.

주제어

표/그림 (15)

그림 Figure 1. Phase diagram of potassium palmitate + water system.
그림 Figure 2. Melting point as a function of stearic acid concentration in a binary fatty acid (MA+SA) system. Stearic acid (SA), Myristic acid (MA).
그림 Figure 3. DSC heating curves of water/KOH/fatty acid ternary systems at different ratios of fatty acid (MA+SA) after storage at 25 ℃ (A) and 37 ℃ (B) for 2 weeks. The degree of neutralization of all samples is 75%. Heating rate: 2 ℃/min.
그림 Figure 4. (A) DSC heating curves and (B) Enthalpy and melting point changes of water/KOH/fatty acid ternary systems (MA : SA = 3 : 1) with increasing degree of neutralization. Heating rate: 2 ℃/min.
그림 Figure 5. Viscosity changes of water/KOH/fatty acid ternary systems with increasing degree of neutralization after storage at 25 ℃ for one week.
그림 Figure 6. POM images of ternary samples with different degrees of neutralization at 200× magnification.
그림 Figure 7. DSC heating curves of water/KOH/fatty acid ternary systems with increasing fatty acid concentration (MA : SA = 3 : 1). The degree of neutralization of all samples is 75%. Heating rate: 2 ℃/min.
그림 Figure 8. DSC heating curves of formula A (MA+SA 24% w/v, MA : SA = 3 : 1, 75% neutralization) containing different polyols 20% (w/v) (A) before cycle testing and (B) after cycle testing (-15 ℃ to 37 ℃) for 1 week. DSC heating rate: 2 ℃/min.
그림 Figure 9. POM images of f ormula A (MA+SA 24% w /v, MA : SA = 3 : 1, 75% neutralization) samples containing 20% w/v of different polyols captured at 200× magnification.
그림 Figure 10. DSC heating curves of formula A with the increasing concentrations of PEG-400 (A) before cycle testing (25 ℃ storage) and (B) after cycle testing (-15 ℃ to 37 ℃) he samples after cycle testing for a week. Heating rate: 2 ℃/min.
그림 Figure 11. DSC heating curves of formula A with the increasing concentrations of glycerin (A) before cycle testing (25 ℃ storage) and (B) after cycle testing (-15 ℃ to 37 ℃) the samples for a week. Heating rate: 2 ℃/min.
그림 Figure 12. Illustration of the lamellar liquid crystalline structure of glycerin (or water) + Aerosol OT system. (d) Represents the interlayer spacing.
그림 Figure 13. Cryo-SEM photographs of (A) formula A without any polyol and (B) formula A with 15% w/v glycerin.
그림 Figure 14. (A) SAXS and (B) WAXS datas of formula A with the increasing concentrations of glycerin.
그림 Figure 15. Illustration of structural change on the gel phase.

참고문헌 (18)

H. Watanabe and K. Oinuma, The formulation and production of cleansing foam, Fragrance Journal, 8, 77 (1993).
V. Luzzati, H. Mustacchi, and A. Skoulios, The structure of the liquid- crystal phases of some soap + water systems, Discuss. Faraday Soc., 25, 43 (1958).

상세보기
S. Zhu, P. D. A. Pudney, M. Heppenstall-Butter, M. F. Butler, D. Ferdinando, and M. Kirkand, Interaction of the acid soap of triethanolamine stearate and stearic acid with water, J. Phys. Chem. B, 111(5), 1016 (2007).
I. Murotani and F. Harusawa, Technological progress in formulation and manufacture of cleansing foam, Fragrance Journal, 7, 32 (1986).
C. Labes-carrier, J. P. Dumas, B. Mendiboure, and J. Lachaise, DSC as a tool to predict emulsion stability, J. Dispers. Sci. Technol., 16(7), 607 (1995).

상세보기
D. Clausse, Thermal behaviour of emulsion studied by differential scanning calorimetry, J. Therm. Anal. Calorim., 51(1), 191 (1998).
M. S. Yoon, Y. B. Chung, and K. Han, A study of gel structure in the nonionic surfactant / cetostearyl alcohol / water ternary systems by differential scanning calorimeter, J. Dispers. Sci. Technol., 20(7), 1695 (1999).

상세보기
K. W. Kim, J. H. Kim, Y. D. Yun, H. J. Ahn, B. S. Min, N. H. Kim, S. G. Rah, H. Y. Kim, C. S. Lee, I. D. Seo, W. W. Lee, H. J. Choi, and K. S. Jin, Small-angle X-ray scattering beamline BL4C SAXS at pohang light source II, Biodesign, 5(1), 24 (2017)
J. W. Mcbain and W. C. Sierichs, The solubility of sodium and potassium soaps and the phase diagrams of aqueous potassium, soaps, J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc., 25, 221 (1948).
A. Sari, Eutectic mixtures of some fatty acids for low temperature solar heating applications: Thermal properties and thermal relability, Appl. Therm. Eng., 25(14-15), 2100 (2005).
P. Zhao, Q. Yue, H. He, B. Gao, Y. Wang, and Q. Li, Study on phase diagram of fatty acids mixtures to determine eutectic temperatures and the corresponding mixing proportions, Appl. Energy, 115, 483 (2014).

상세보기
S. Tomomasa, F. Harusawa, and Y. Machida, Phase Transitions of the potassium stearate-water-polyol systems, J. Jpn. Oil Chem. Soc., 36(12), 938 (1987).
H. Sagitani, Stability conditions and mechanism of cream soaps: Role of glycerol, J. Oleo Sci., 63(4), 365 (2014).

상세보기
H. Sagitani and M. Komoriya, Stability conditions and mechanism of cream soaps: Effect of polyols, J. Oleo Sci., 64(8), 809 (2015).

상세보기
S. E. Friberg and Y. Liang, Phases equilibria in the glycerol-aerosol OT systems with decanol or hydrocarbon, Surfactant Science Series, 24, 103 (1987).
S. Borsacchi, M. Ambrosi, P. L. Nostro, and M. Geppi, Understanding the properties of the coagel and gel phases: A 1 H and 13 C NMR study of amphiphilic ascorbic acid derivatives, J. Phys. Chem. B., 114(48), 15872 (2010).
P. Tandon, G. Forster, R. Neubert, and S. Wartewig, Phase transitions in oleic acid as studied by X-ray diffraction and FT-raman spectroscopy, J. Mol. Struc., 524(1-3), 201 (2000).
R. Nadarajan and R. Ismail, Performance and microstructural study on soap using different fatty acid and cations, J. Surfactants Deterg., 14(4), 463 (2011).

저자의 다른 논문 :

표제어: PCR

동의어: Packet Collision Rate

용어 설명 출처 목록 (6)

용어 설명: PCR은 세균 특이성이 있는 primer를 이용하여 적은 수의 세균이 있을지라도 쉽게 검출할 수 있는 유용한 방법이며, 이를 이용하여 구강 내 치면세균막이나 타액에서 직접 세균을 검출할 수 있게 되었다[8].

내보내기 구분	파일저장 인쇄 메일전송
구성항목	기본정보 상세정보 관리번호, 논문명, 저널/프로시딩명, 저자 , 발행년, 권, 호, 시작페이지, 끝페이지, 발행기관 관리번호, 논문명, 대등논문명, 저자 , 저널/프로시딩명, 발행기관, 발행년, 발행언어, 권, 호, 시작페이지, 끝페이지, ISBN, ISSN, 주제분야, 키워드, 초록(한글), 초록(영문), 저자(소속기관)
저장형식	Text(ASCII format) Excel format RefWorks Direct Export RIS format (for Reference Manager, ProCite, EndNote), Scholar's Aids, Mendeley
메일정보	받는사람 (필수) @ 보내는사람 (선택) @ 제목 내용 KISTI 검색결과 이메일 서비스
안내	총 건의 자료가 검색되었습니다. 다운받으실 자료의 인덱스를 입력하세요. (1-10,000) 검색결과의 순서대로 최대 10,000건 까지 다운로드가 가능합니다. 데이타가 많을 경우 속도가 느려질 수 있습니다.(최대 2~3분 소요) 다운로드 파일은 UTF-8 형태로 저장됩니다. 파일의 내용이 제대로 보이지 않을실 때는 웹브라우저 상단의 보기 -> 인코딩 -> 자동선택 여부를 확인하십시오. ~ Text(ASCII format) Excel format

연합인증