[논문]Influence of the emollient structure on the properties of cosmetic emulsion containing lamellar liquid crystals

Terescenco, Daria; Picard, Celine; Clemenceau, Florence; Grisel, Michel; Savary, Geraldine

doi:10.1016/j.colsurfa.2017.08.017

Influence of the emollient structure on the properties of cosmetic emulsion containing lamellar liquid crystals 원문보기

Colloids and surfaces. A, Physicochemical and engineering aspects, v.536, 2018년, pp.10 - 19

Terescenco, Daria (Normandie Univ, UNIHAVRE, FR 3038 CNRS, URCOM, 76600 Le Havre, France) , Picard, Celine (Normandie Univ, UNIHAVRE, FR 3038 CNRS, URCOM, 76600 Le Havre, France) , Clemenceau, Florence (Direction Innovation - UID Excipients SEPPIC, 127 Chemin de la Poudrerie, 81105 Castres Cedex, France) , Grisel, Michel (Normandie Univ, UNIHAVRE, FR 3038 CNRS, URCOM, 76600 Le Havre, France) , Savary, Geraldine (Normandie Univ, UNIHAVRE, FR 3038 CNRS, URCOM, 76600 Le Havre, France)

Abstract ▼ AI-Helper

Abstract In the present study the effect of cosmetic emollients (oils and esters) varying from their chemical structure on the lamellar liquid crystals organization has been investigated. The cetearyl alcohol/cetearyl glucoside emulsifier, known for its ability to form lamellar phases was used at a level of 10% in emulsions. At this high concentration a strong lamellar network is formed. Also, each of the seven selected emollients was incorporated at level of 20%, as for a classical cosmetic emulsion. These quantities were necessary in order to assure the presence of lamellar phases in all the samples and to amplify the impact of the emollient on the structural organization of the surfactant. Additionally, a control sample was formulated, containing only emulsifier and water. Emollients were divided as a function of their chemical structure in group A (without heteroatom) and B (with heteroatom). They were first described as a function of the interfacial tension against water, in order to classify them according to their hydrophobicity. The presence of the lamellar phases in all samples was confirmed by means of optical microscopy under polarized light, and then the differences between emulsions physical properties were evidenced by static light scattering and rheological measurements. It was shown that use of A group emollients induces larger droplets size and, respectively, more elastic behavior to the emulsions. This phenomenon is related to the lamellar organization, which is dominated by α-gel for A group oils and by lamellar liquid crystals combined to α-gel for B group emollients, as showed through wide angle X-ray diffraction technique. Moreover, the influence of such structures on usage properties of emulsions was characterized via thermal analyses and spreadability tests. Highlights Interfacial tension – adapted technique to classify oils by their hydrophobicity. Emulsion’s properties are governed by surfactant/oil phase interaction. Effect of the emollient on the emulsion’s micro and macrostructure was proved. Emollient’s structure impacts the type of lamellar phase formed in emulsions. The type of formed lamellar liquid crystals influences emulsion’s thermal properties. Graphical abstract [DISPLAY OMISSION]

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Influence of the emollient structure on the properties of cosmetic emulsion containing lamellar liquid crystals 원문보기

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