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NTIS 바로가기Transactions : American Geophysical Union, v.35 no.6, 1954년, pp.897 - 904
When the shore line and offshore contours are straight and parallel, wave refraction is governed by Snell's law, which states that the sine of the angle between the wave crest and the bottom contour is proportional to the velocity of wave propagation. Shell's law was verified in this study by analyz...
The effect of surface tension on wave velocities in shallow water Chinn 1949 Chinn, Allen J., , , The effect of surface tension on wave velocities in shallow water, , M. S. thesis, Univ. of Calif., , Berkeley, Calif., , 1949, .
Amer. Soc. Civ. Eng. Proc. Engineering aspects of diffraction and refraction Johnson v. 78 1952 Johnson, J. W., , , Engineering aspects of diffraction and refraction, , Amer. Soc. Civ. Eng. Proc., , v. 78, , separate no. 122, pp., 1952, .
Trans. Amer. Geophys. Union A laboratory investigation of wind-generated waves Johnson 845 33 1952 10.1029/TR033i006p00845 Johnson, J. W., , E. K., Rice, , A laboratory investigation of wind-generated waves, Trans. Amer. Geophys. Union, 33, 845-854 1952,
Comm. Pure Appl. Math. The propagation of waves in shallow water Lowell 275 2 1949 10.1002/cpa.3160020207 Lowell, S. C., , The propagation of waves in shallow water, Comm. Pure Appl. Math., 2, 275-291 1949,
A summary of the theory of oscillatory waves O'Brien 1942 O'Brien, M. P., , , A summary of the theory of oscillatory waves, , Beach Erosion Board Tech. Rep. no. 2, , 1942, .
Q. Appl. Math. Surface waves in water of variable depth Stoker 1 5 1947 10.1090/qam/22135 Stoker, J. J., , Surface waves in water of variable depth, Q. Appl. Math., 5, 1-54 1947,
Breakers and surf; principles in forecasting U. S. Navy Dept., H. O. Pub. Sverdrup 234 1944 Sverdrup, H. J., , W. H., Munk, , Breakers and surf; principles in forecasting, U. S. Navy Dept., H. O. Pub., 234, 1944,
Geogr. J. The determination of gradients on enemy-held beaches Williams 76 109 1947 10.2307/1789903 Williams, W. W., , The determination of gradients on enemy-held beaches, Geogr. J., 109, 76-93 1947,
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