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NTIS 바로가기International journal of cosmetic science, v.41 no.6, 2019년, pp.534 - 547
Nisbet, S. J. (Skin Health Research & Development at GlaxoSmithKline Consumer Healthcare, Weybridge, Surrey, UK) , Targett, D. (Primoris Contract Solutions Ltd., Ascot, Berkshire, UK) , Rawlings, A. V. (AVR Consulting Ltd., Northwich, Cheshire, UK) , Qian, K. (Thomas J. Stephens & Associates, Richardson, TX, USA) , Wang, X. (GlaxoSmithKline, Collegeville, PA, USA) , Lin, C. B. (GlaxoSmithKline, Collegeville, PA, USA) , Thompson, M. A. (GlaxoSmithKline Consumer Healthcare, Warren, NJ, USA) , Bulsara, P. A. (GlaxoSmithKline Consumer Healthcare, Warren, NJ, USA) , Moore, D. J. (GlaxoSmithKline Consumer Healthcare, Warren, NJ, USA)
AbstractObjectiveTo demonstrate the in vitro activities of panthenol, palmitoylethanolamide (PEA), and niacinamide (NAM) and determine the biophysical properties, clinical safety, tolerability together with efficacy of two developmental anti‐redness (AR) formulations containing these ingredien...
RésuméObjectifDémontrer l’activité in vitro du panthénol, du palmitoyléthanolamide (PEA), et du nicotinamide (NAM) et déterminer les propriétés biophysiques, la sécurité clinique, la tolérance ainsi que l’efficacité de deux formulations anti‐rougeurs (AR) en développement contenant ces ingrédients pour atténuer les rougeurs faciales associées à la xérose hivernale chez des volontaires sains présentant une peau sensible.MéthodesLes propriétés anti‐inflammatoires et protectrices du panthénol, du PEA et du NAM ont été évaluées in vitro. Les propriétés physiques des formulations AR ont été analysées en mesurant le taux de transport de vapeur d’eau (WVTR) et par spectroscopie infrarouge. Des études cliniques ont été réalisées entre décembre et avril (2014‐2015) et l’efficacité a été évaluée pendant l’hiver. Les rougeurs, l’irritation, le potentiel de sensibilisation, la photo‐irritation et la photosensibilisation au niveau du visage ont été évalués. Des effets indésirables auto‐évalués ont été signalés dans des journaux d’utilisation.RésultatsLe panthénol et le PEA ont réduit les niveaux de prostaglandine E2, d’interleukine‐6 et de lymphopoiétine stromale thymique in vitro, tandis que le NAM a généré une augmentation des taux de nicotinamide adénine dinucléotide (NAD) et des marqueurs de différenciation kératinocytaire : filaggrine (multiplication des taux par 2, P < 0,001), loricrine (multiplication des taux par 2, P < 0,05), involucrine (multiplication des taux par 2, P < 0,001) et du récepteur alpha activé de la prolifération peroxysomale (multiplication des taux par 1,5, P < 0,05). Les deux produits antirétroviraux présentaient un faible taux de WVTR par rapport à l’absence de traitement (P < 0,001) et présentaient une structure lipidique ordonnée. La formulation de la crème de jour protège contre le rayonnement ultraviolet B in vitro. Un total de 382 participants ont été inclus dans les études cliniques qui ont montré que les formulations AR amélioraient significativement les rougeurs faciales associées à la xérose hivernale (changement moyen du jour 29 par rapport à la référence : crème de jour AR 0,77 (P < 0,001) ; sérum AR 0,67 (P < 0,001)). Aucune irritation, sensibilisation, photo‐irritation, photosensibilisation ni effet indésirable lié au produit n’a été observé ou signalé dans les études cliniques.ConclusionLes nouveaux produits ont considérablement amélioré la rougeur de la peau associée à la xérose hivernale chez les participants présentant une peau sensible auto‐perçue. Les deux produits ont été bien tolérés avec un profil de sécurité approprié pour un usage topique chez les sujets présentant une peau sensible.
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