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NTIS 바로가기服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, v.66 no.7, 2016년, pp.89 - 108
양수정 (이화여자대학교 미술사학과)
The purpose of this study is not only to trace the examples of 'Chesanja' from the texts and artifacts, but also to restore the terminology of the lost traditional Joseon embroidery technique. 'Chesanja' came on Mongolia and Yuan period affected embroidery techniques of the neighboring countries. Th...
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핵심어 | 질문 | 논문에서 추출한 답변 |
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체산자는 무엇인가? | ‘체산자’는 실을 엮어서 山 모양을 만드는 장식 기법으로 고려후기에 등장하여 조선에 이르기까지 다양한 자수용품에 적용된 기법이다. 13~14세기 중세 북방민족의 자수 기법으로서 새로운 유행을 선도했던 체산자는 조선에 들어서 더욱 그진가를 발휘했으며 특히 15~16세기의 특징적인 장식 기법으로 자리잡았다. | |
체산자는 원명시대에서 어디에 널리 활용되었는가? | 체산자는 원명시대에서 실용품과 불교용품에 널리 활용되어 왔는데 조선의 경우에는 왕실과 지배층의 숭불과 배불의 사이에서 효용(效用)되다가 16~17세기에 이르면 베개와 같은 일상용품에까지 활발히 적용되었다. 체산자는 15세기에 이르면 ‘砌山子’를 ‘치산ᄌᆞ’로 부르고 16세기에는 ‘치산ᄌᆞ’를‘귀여☆’으로도 함께 칭하기 시작했으며 17세기에는 ‘귀여☆’이라 쓰고 ‘귀여★’로 칭한 듯하며 18세기 중반에는 ‘砌山子’와 ‘귀여☆’이라는 용어가 역서본에서 사라지게 된다. | |
체산자는 19~20세기에 들어 이름과 사용 대상에 있어 어떤 변화를 겪었나? | 특히 17세기 중반 「박통사언해」에서 체산자의 언해인 ‘귀여★’이라는 정확한 용어가 이어지고 자수에 활용된다는 용례의 제시와 더불어 인선왕후의 어서(1656년 무렵)에서 ‘귀여’의 등장은 이후 이 기법이 어떻게 사용되어 가는지를 보여줌으로서 자수사에서 큰 의의를 가진다고 할 수 있다. 그러므로 19~20세기 이르면 ‘구야(고야)’라는 이름으로 구전되며 왕실의 기법으로 존속되었다고 볼 수 있다. 결국 이러한 체산자의 희소성은 특징있는 장식성으로 인해 권문가의 기복문양기법으로서 그 명맥을 이어 왔으며 조선 자수기법의 특색 중 하나로 손꼽아 지게 되었다. |
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