[논문]청색과 녹색 계열 천연염색 견직물의 색채 감성

이은주

doi:10.12772/tse.2016.53.120

Abstract ▼ AI-Helper

The purpose of this study was to determine color sensibility factors of naturally dyed silk fabrics in blue and green and to identify the relationship between objective colorimetric properties and subjective color sensibility. A silk fabric was directly colored with natural dye powder via both singl...

The purpose of this study was to determine color sensibility factors of naturally dyed silk fabrics in blue and green and to identify the relationship between objective colorimetric properties and subjective color sensibility. A silk fabric was directly colored with natural dye powder via both single and sequential dyeing in order to impart various bluish or greenish hues to it. The dyed fabric samples were measured in terms of Munsell notation including H, V, and C; CIE colorimetric properties such as $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, and $C^*$; and PCCS tones. Fashion specialists including designers, researchers, and graduate students were asked to evaluate the dyed silk fabrics for subjective color sensibility terms using semantic differential scales. As a result, four color sensibility factors were obtained: Active, Delicate, Comfort/Gentle, and Urban. Color lightness such as CIE $L^*$ and Munsell V had the most influence on the factor Delicate, whereas color saturation including CIE $C^*$ and Munsell C had the most influence on the factor Active. The tones seemed to affect the factor Delicate more than any other objective color variables and in such detail that tones such as lt and ltg reinforced the feeling of the factor; the factors Comfort/Gentle and Urban were closely affected by greenish and bluish shades, respectively. The relations were also compared with the results of previous studies investigating other shades such as yellow and red. Finally, quantified prediction models by multiple regression were established for each color sensibility factor in order to help natural dyeing industries design highly emotional colors of naturally dyed silk fabrics in blue and green.

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제안 방법

Because this study was performed focusing on commercially available natural dye powder for direct bath dyeing and for even sequential dyeing, some of natural dye products which don’t need any additional process such as oxidation or reduction.
Charcoal was also employed to enforce grayish tone by sequential dyeing with a single bluish or greenish dye powder. Dye concentrations for each dye were determined by preliminary experiments to figure out its color space which it could generate. The dyeing methods and colorimetric properties of silk fabrics dyed with natural colorants in blue and green were shown in Table 1.
For sensibility evaluation, the dyed fabric stimuli were prepared by respectively framed with neutral gray mat board in size of 9 cm×9 and they were presented one by one at a distance of about 50 cm in a viewing cabinet (Gretagmacbeth, the Judge II) illuminated by a D65 simulator.
In this study, color sensibility factors of naturally dyed silk fabrics in blue and green were purposed to be determined and their relationship with colorimetric properties such as CIE variables and Munsell notation and PCCS tone were investigated. Four color sensibility factors including Active, Delicate, Comfort/Gentle, and Urban were extracted for blue and green natural dye silk fabrics and they were found as being influenced by colorimetric properties in CIE and Munsell, Munsell hue families, and PCCS tones.
Additionally their color sensibility should be differentiated from that of other hues such as yellow and red on silk of which color sensibility has been identified since several years. Therefore this study was carried out to identify color sensibility factors of naturally dyed fabrics in blue and green, to investigate the relationship between color sensibility factors and colorimetric properties in CIE, Munsell, and PCCS, and finally to provide prediction models for color sensibility factors using the objective variables.

데이터처리

Correlation coefficients were obtained to get the relationship between colorimetric properties and color sensibility factors. Analysis of variance (ANOVA) was adopted to test the differences among colorants, tones, and dye combinations, respectively in the factors.

성능/효과

848% was named as Pleasant, since the terms depicting active and delightful feelings composed this category such as dynamic, pleasant, clear, splendid, sporty, and cute. The second factor with the variance of 15.259% was nominated by Delicate in which delicate and soft were the most highly related while hard and strong were negatively correlated. The third factor was labeled as Comfort/Gentle since natural, comfort, and gentle defined it positively.
In some previous reports [6−8] dealing with red and yellow hue by natural dyeing, those perception above had a tendency to be positively explained when L^* was higher than 60 around. This study showed the threshold of L^* is 60 approximately as well in that the factor Delicate was positively felt at higher L^* values than 60. This result seems to come from the range of L^* is similar among every hue by natural dyeing such as red, yellow, blue, and green as shown in the previous works [6−8] as well as in this study.

참고문헌 (14)

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원문보기 상세보기
M. L. Gulrajani, R. C. Srivastava, and M. Goel, "Colour Gamut of Natural Dyes on Cotton Yarns", Color. Technol., 2001, 117, 225-228.

상세보기
E. Yi and J. Cho, "Color Analysis of Natural Colorant-Dyed Fabrics", Color Res. Appl., 2008, 33, 148-157.

상세보기
M. Montazer, M. Parvinzadeh, and A. Kiumarsi, "Colorimetric Properties of Wool Dyed with Natural Dyes after Treatment with Ammonia", Color. Technol., 2004, 120, 161-166.

상세보기
Y. J. Choi, H. S. Ryu, and S. A. Kweon, “A Study of Color Image on Silk Fabrics Dyed with Yellow Natural Materials”, J. Korean Soc. Clothing Textiles, 2005, 29, 868-876.
E. Yi and J. M. Choi, "Color Sensibility Factors for Yellowish and Reddish Natural Dyed Fabrics by 40s Middle-Aged Consumers", Sci. Emot. Sensibil., 2009, 12, 109-120.
E. Yi and J. Choi, "Determining Colorimetric Factors Affecting Color Sensibility of Yellowish Natural Dye Fabrics", International Conference on Kansei Engineering and Emotion Research 2007 (KEER2007), 2007.
E. Yi, "Color Sensibility Factors of Cotton Fabrics Dyed with Persimmon Powder", Text. Sci. Eng., 2014, 51, 327-335.

원문보기 상세보기
E. Yi and J. M. Choi, "Intergenerational Differences of Color Sensation and Preference for Naturally Dyed Fabrics", Fiber. Polym., 2008, 9, 587-596.
E. Yi and R. Shamey, "Cross-cultural Comparison of Color Terms and Preference of Persimmon-Dyed Fabric, Galchon", Color Res. Appl., 2015, 40, 592-604.

상세보기
J. Shin and J. Choi, "Colorimetric Properties, Color Sensibility and Color Preferences for Mulberry/Cotton Blended Fabrics Dyed with Natural Indigo", Korean J. Human Ecology, 2013, 22, 365-374.

원문보기 상세보기
I.R.I., "A Study on the Development of Color Image Scales for Koreans", Final Report, Ministry of Trade and Industry, 1997.
L. Ou, M. R. Luo, A. Woodcock, and A. Wright, "A Study of Color Emotion and Colour Preference. Part I: Color Emotions for Single Colours", Color Res. Appl., 2004, 29, 232-240.

상세보기
A. Lee and E. Yi, “Prediction Models for Fabric Color Emotion Factors by Visual Texture Characteristics and Physical Color Properties”, J. Korean Soc. Clothing Textiles, 2010, 34, 1567-1580.

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연합인증

청색과 녹색 계열 천연염색 견직물의 색채 감성
Color Sensibility of Naturally Dyed Silk Fabrics in Blue and Green

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청색과 녹색 계열 천연염색 견직물의 색채 감성 Color Sensibility of Naturally Dyed Silk Fabrics in Blue and Green

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청색과 녹색 계열 천연염색 견직물의 색채 감성
Color Sensibility of Naturally Dyed Silk Fabrics in Blue and Green

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