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NTIS 바로가기한국의류학회지 = Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, v.40 no.2, 2016년, pp.353 - 364
이해동 (상명대학교 생활환경학과) , 서성은 (상명대학교 의류학과)
This study analyzes French designer Hedi Slimane who has received recent attention from the fashion world. He changed sub-culture 'Rock Fashion' into high fashion and altered the stereotype of the existing menswear with the skinny look. His extreme slim-fit style also has changed the menswear market...
핵심어 | 질문 | 논문에서 추출한 답변 |
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에디 슬리먼은 이전까지의 남성복에 대한 편견과 고정관념을 어떻게 바꾸었는가? | 에디 슬리먼(Hedi Slimane)은 먼저 디올 옴므(Dior Homme)를 통해 이전까지의 남성복에 대한 편견과 고정관념을 바꿨다. 첫째, 상하의 모두 스키니 핏(skinny fit)의 옷을 만들었고, 이전까지의 남성복 모델과는 달리 마치 기아 상태처럼 극도로 마른 모델들을 채용하여 패션쇼에서 선보였다. 그는 한 인터뷰에서 “큰 체형은 옷을 벗었을 때가 아름답지만 마른 몸은 옷을 입기에 아름답다. 남자들에게도다이어트(diet)는 필요하다. 모든 남자들은잘 재단된 블랙 재킷(jacket)과 그에 어울리는 화이트 (white) 셔츠 혹은 티셔츠 그리고 멋진 진(jean), 심플한 블랙(black) 구두 또는 부츠(boots), 여기에 충분히 오래된 그리고 더러운 빈티지(vintage) 운동화를 가지고 있어야 한다.”라고 말했다(Standen, 2010). 둘째, 테일러링 (tailoring)과 수트(suit) 위주의 클래식(classic)한 남성복을 보인 유럽 패션계에 에디 슬리먼은 록 스트릿(rock street) 문화를 하이패션의 반열로 올려놓았다. 그 결과, 디올 옴므의 스키니 진은 큰 인기를 끌었고 스키니를 입기 위해 여자보다 마른 남자들이 생겨나기 시작했다. 단편적인 예로 샤넬(Channel)의 수석 디자이너인 칼 라커펠트(Karl Lagerfeld)도 에디 슬리먼의 스키니 진을 입기위해 42kg 감량을 했다. 전문가들은 기존의 남성복 유행 흐름을 깬 디자이너라고 평하였지만, 한편으로는 옷이 여성스럽다는(feminine) 지적을 하였다(Wilson, 2013). | |
글램 록이란 무엇인가? | 글램 록은 매력적인, ‘화려한(glamorous)’이라는 말에서 탄생한 것으로 여성처럼 화려한 치장과 아방가르드 (avant-garde)한 패션을 한 남성 로커들이었다. 1960년대 후반, 히피 패션에 대한 반감으로 등장하였고 글램 록가수의 의상은 젊은이들에게 급속하게 전파되었다. | |
글램 록 패션의 특성은 무엇이 있는가? | 글램 록 패션의 특성을 살펴보면, 인체를 극도로 조이는 실루엣, 메탈릭(metalic)한 소재, 동물무늬, 플랫폼 (platform) 신발, 과다한 장식, 짙은 화장, 다양한 액세서리 그리고 화려한 머리 모양이 특성이라고 볼 수 있다. 그리고 실험적 패러디(parody)인데, 실험적 패러디는 연주를 연기한다는 미학을 통한 실험적인 표현을 하는 것이 주 내용이고 유명 인사의 패러디와 성적인 패러디가‘실험적 패러디’의특성이라할 수 있다(Gilmonur, 1999). |
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