[논문]현대 하위문화 패션의 조형 특성과 그레마스 기호사각형을 통한 의미 해석

백효연; 이지현

doi:10.7233/jksc.2017.67.8.080

[국내논문] 현대 하위문화 패션의 조형 특성과 그레마스 기호사각형을 통한 의미 해석
A Study of the Formative Characteristics and Meaning in Contemporary Fashion Subculture Using the Greimas Semiotic Square

服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, v.67 no.8, 2017년, pp.80 - 99

백효연 (연세대학교 대학원 생활디자인학과) , 이지현 (연세대학교 생활디자인학과)

Abstract ▼ AI-Helper

When a specific fashion style is collectively adopted, it creates a cultural group-a subculture. The act of creating a specific fashion style in the subculture is the act of stylization, the building of its own symbols and rules through fashion. Therefore, studying fashion subculture means studying fashion behaviors and the styles that have been established as a cultural identity, and not as temporal trends. The purpose of this study is to interpret the meaning of the formative characteristics of contemporary fashion subculture, based on the cultural phenomenon of fashion. Seapunk, Lolita fashion, and Cyber-Goth were selected as research subjects, since they have collective cultural activities, and thus a strong identity as a culture, rather than just as a style. The analysis used the Greimas semiotic square based on the binary opposition of meaning and isotopy. The results of the study are as follows. First, Seapunk has formative characteristics of openness, flatness, and indeterminateness, associated with how members build their identities and characteristics of their visual motifs. The mixed visual representation of "Internet" and "Sea" shows images of space where dynamic artificial life forms and serene nature life forms coexist. The adoption of "Internet" and "90s" as visual motifs represents future-oriented attitudes and nostalgia for the past at the same time. Second, Lolita fashion has the formative characteristics of wholeness and flatness. Lolita fashion establishes subcultural identity through the uniformity in composition and silhouette they should have, but also diversifies their culture by leaving choices of the details of color, theme, and style to the individual. The woman image of Lolita fashion, derived from the form of a skirt, is a new one, placed between a mature woman and a cheerful girl. Finally, Cyber-Goth's formative characteristics are wholeness and planar separation. The movements of Cyber-Goth dance show a collision between passive and dependent movements on one hand, and active and independent movements on the other. Cyber-Goth represents the cyborg of a degraded future by its body image, which is a combination of an exaggerated non-livng mechanical body and an actual living biological body. The results of this study will expand the perspective on subculture interpretation, and contribute to the expansion of methodology for fashion-style interpretation, by interpreting fashion style based on cultural characteristics of the subculture.

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