[논문]현대 남성 패션에 나타난 해체주의 '차연'적 표현 특성

이한나; 이연희

doi:10.29049/rjcc.2019.27.3.222

[국내논문] 현대 남성 패션에 나타난 해체주의 '차연'적 표현 특성
Characteristics of différance image in contemporary men's fashion 원문보기

The Research Journal of the Costume Culture = 복식문화연구, v.27 no.3, 2019년, pp.222 - 238

Abstract ▼ AI-Helper

This study is aimed at applying the philosophical concept of "$diff{\acute{e}}rance$" to contemporary men's fashion design, which could effectively show the shift in thinking. For the study method, the author examined the theoretical background of deconstruction and prepared the standard of analysis by organizing the concept of "$diff{\acute{e}}rance$," which exists at the center of philosophy. This study selected the three most popular brands: Maison Margiela, Comme des Garcons, and Yohji Yamamoto. The results are as follows. First, there is expression of perpetual reservation emphasizing time. This includes texture, patchworks, hems with ladder, and exposure of seam that expresses the trace of time flow and delayed delivery of immediate meaning, and the expression creates delay between major and minor and leads to consistent role exchange. Second, the trace of blank that emphasizes the space gives a visual sense of weight on spares with the intentionally granted space, as well as the space that is the trace of trace and creates a sense of depth through the direction of empty space. Third, the space created in the process of wearing cloth is visualized, the structure of clothing is deconstructed, and the movement from the process recomposes the shape of space and expands the definition that enables expansion of time and space. Fourth, the undetermined relationship expresses the border of time and space visually and deconstructs time and space. The approaches are mostly constructive, demonstrating an avant-garde form of clothes-wearing to show the non-form or imbalance condition.

Keyword

질의응답

핵심어	질문	논문에서 추출한 답변
	의복에서 나타나는 해체의 경향의 한계점은?	의복에서 나타나는 해체의 경향은 현대 복식에서 종래의 가치관과 전통에 위배되어 전위의 방법이나 소재의 다양화, 과도한 노출, 전통적 복식형태의 파괴 등으로 나타나, 하나의 스타일이 주도하기보다 다양한 요소가 공존하는 형태이다. 그러나 이러한 현대 패션에서의 해체주의 ‘차연’적 이미지는 한정적 이미지를 갖고 있다. 이에 본 연구는 해체주의의 ‘차연’적 표현 특성을 도출하여 남성 패션 디자인 작품 개발에 있어 다양한 접근의 가능성을 발현시키는 역할을 하고자 하였다.
	해체 철학의 특징은?	해체 철학은 전통적인 형이상학에서 사유하기 어려웠던 새로운 가능성을 탐구하고 전통적인 형이상학 체제를 과감히 비판하며 등장하여 독창적 사조로 자리매김하였다. 21세기에 있어 해체주의 경향은 예술, 건축, 패션 속에 영향력을 발휘하며 이들을 혼합한 새로운 분야를 창조하기도 한다.
	해체주의 패션브랜드는 무엇이 있는가?	연구방법으로 해체주의 담론이 전개된 이론적 배경을 살펴보기 위해 국내외 출판된 단행본 및 간행본과 학위논문 및 학술지 등의 문헌자료를 바탕으로 해체주의의 이론적 고찰을 진행하였다. 해체주의 차연적 이미지를 바탕으로 현대 패션에서 해체주의 패션으로 언급되는 브랜드 중 선행연구에서 해체주의 패션으로 가장 많이 언급된 남성브랜드 메종 마르지엘라(Maison Margiela), 꼼데가르송(Comme des Garcons), 요지 야마모토(Yohji Yamamoto), 존 갈리아노(John Galliano), 장 폴 고티에(Jean Paul Gaultier), 비비안 웨스트우드(Vivienne westwood), 이세이 미야케(Issey Miyake) 중, 본 연구에서는 상위 세 개의 메종 마르지엘라(Maison Margiela), 꼼데가르송(Comme des Garcons), 요지 야마모토(Yohji Yamamoto) 브랜드를 분석 대상으로 선정하였다. 분석 자료는 공신력이 있으며, 발행 연도와 주기가 안정적인 패션 전문 사이트 보그닷컴(http://www.

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