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NTIS 바로가기한국해안·해양공학회논문집 = Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers, v.32 no.1, 2020년, pp.55 - 68
In order to investigate the hydraulic characteristics of a boundary layer streaming over the beach cusps appeared in swells prevailing mild seas, we numerically simulated the shoaling process of Edge waves over the beach cusp. Synchronous Edge waves known to sustain the beach cusps could successfull...
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핵심어 | 질문 | 논문에서 추출한 답변 |
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beach cusp는 무엇인가? | 자연 해빈에서는 해안선이 원호 모양으로 먼 바다를 향해 번갈아 가며 나가고 들어오는 것이 흔히 관측되며 이러한 원호 모양의 해안선은 beach cusp이라 불린다. 우리나라 동해안의 여러 백사장 중 아직 개발의 손길이 미치지 못해 자연 해빈에 가깝게 보존된 맹방 해안에서도 상당히 다양한 크기의 beach cusp을 관측할 수 있다(Cho, 2019b; Lee and Cho, 2019). | |
Beach cusp는 어떻게 생성되는가? | Beach cusp은 퇴적성 해빈처럼 간조 단구(low tide terrace)와 해안 사이에 급경사의 전빈이 형성되는 경우 전빈 수주에서 자극된 sub-harmonic edge waves에 의해 해빈 표사가 재배치되는 과정에서 생성된다(Guza, 1974). 전술한 subharmonic edge waves는 해안에 beach cusp이라는 흔적을 남기고 소멸하며, 이렇게 초기화된 beach cusp은 내습하는 파랑과 같은 주기를 지니는 synchronous edge waves에 의해 유지된다(Guza, 1974; Cho, 2019b; Lee and Cho, 2019). | |
자연 해빈의 해양환경에 따라 침·퇴적을 반복하는 순환과정 중 온화한 해양환경에서 출현하는 퇴적성 해빈의 특징은? | , 2019; Cho, 2019a). 전술한 해빈 대순환과정 중 온화한 해양환경에서 출현하는 퇴적성 해빈은 Dean Number Ω < 1로 분류되며 좁은 해빈 폭, 급한 전빈 경사, swash 대역에서 형성되는 beach cusp, 원빈에 형성된 사주 등의 성정을 지닌다. 이에 반해 거친 해양환경에서 출현하는 침식성 해빈은 고운 모래로 구성된 해빈, 완만한 전빈 경사, 쓸려간 사주와 같은 성정을 공유한다. |
Chang, P.S. and Cho, Y.J. (2019). Preliminary study on the development of a platform for the optimization of beach stabilization measures against beach erosion III - centering on the effects of random Waves occurring during the unit observation period, and infra-gravity waves of bound mode, and boundary layer streaming on the sediment transport. Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers, 31(6), 434-449 (in Korean).
Cho, Y.J. (2019b). Grand circulation process of beach cusp and its seasonal variation at the Mang-Bang beach from the perspective of trapped mode Edge waves as the driving mechanism of beach cusp formation. Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers, 31(5), 265-277 (in Korean).
Cho, Y.J. (2019c). Preliminary study on the development of a platform for the optimization of beach stabilization measures against beach erosion II - centering on the development of physics-based morphology model for the estimation of an erosion rate of nourished beach. Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers, 31(5), 320-333 (in Korean).
Cho, Y.J. and Kim, G.S. (2008). Development of 3-D nonlinear wave driver using SPH. Journal of the Korean Society of Civil Engineers B, 28(5B), 559-573 (in Korean).
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Cho, Y.J. and Kim, I.H. (2019). Preliminary study on the development of platform for the selection of an optimal beach stabilization measures against the beach erosion-centering on the yearly sediment budget of the Mang-Bang beach. Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers, 31(1), 28-39 (in Korean).
Cho, Y.J. and Lee, H. (2007). Numerical analysis of nonlinear shoaling characteristics over surf zone using SPH and lagrangian dynamic smagorinsky model. Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers, 19(1), 81-96 (in Korean).
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