[논문]찔레꽃 추출물의 모공 개선 화장품 소재로서의 특성 연구

유지영; 노경백; 장영수; 조은애; 윤소현; 황윤희; 박덕훈; 정은선

doi:10.15230/scsk.2024.50.3.201

[국내논문] 찔레꽃 추출물의 모공 개선 화장품 소재로서의 특성 연구
Study on the Properties of Rosa multiflora Extract as an Pore-improving Cosmetic Material

大韓化粧品學會誌 = Journal of the society of cosmetic scientists of Korea, v.50 no.3, 2024년, pp.201 - 211

유지영 (바이오스펙트럼(주) 생명과학연구소) , 노경백 (바이오스펙트럼(주) 생명과학연구소) , 장영수 (바이오스펙트럼(주) 생명과학연구소) , 조은애 (바이오스펙트럼(주) 생명과학연구소) , 윤소현 ((주)더마클) , 황윤희 ((주)더마클) , 박덕훈 (바이오스펙트럼(주) 생명과학연구소) , 정은선 (바이오스펙트럼(주) 생명과학연구소)

초록
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본 연구는 찔레꽃(Rosa multiflora, R. multiflora)을 모공 개선 화장품 소재로 제안하기 위한 것으로 찔레꽃의 에탄올 추출물(R. multiflora extract, RME)을 이용해 모공에 영향을 줄 수 있다고 알려진 피지조절과 수렴성 및 세포외 기질과 관련된 다양한 인자들의 변화를 확인하였으며, 임상을 통해 그 효과를 확인하였다. 결과적으로 RME는 피지의 과도한 생성을 억제하였으며, 수렴성인 탄닌 성분을 통해 DPPH 라디칼 소거능을 지니고 있음을 확인하였다. 또한 11β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase type 1 (11β-HSD1)의 활성과 matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) 생성을 억제하고 히알루론산 합성을 증가시켰다. 최종적으로 RME는 임상에서 모공 파라미터인 모공의 면적, 깊이, 수, 부피, 밀도를 유의미하게 감소시켰으며, 피지 역시 감소시켰음을 확인하였다. 이는 RME가 수렴효과를 지니며, 피지 생성 및 ECM 관련 인자들을 조절함으로써 모공을 개선하는 소재로 활용될 수 있음을 제시한다.

Abstract ▼ AI-Helper

The aim of this study was to propose Rosa multiflora (R. multiflora) as a cosmetic material for refining pores, and the ethanolic extract of R. multiflora (RME) was used to identify changes in various factors related to sebum regulation, astringency, and extracellular matrix, which are known to affect pores, and the effects were confirmed through clinical trials. The effects of these changes were confirmed through clinical trials. As a result, RME suppresses the excessive production of sebum, and it possesses DPPH radical scavenging ability through an astringent tannin component. Futhermore, RME inhibited 11β-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase type 1 (11β-HSD1) activity and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) production, and it increased hyaluronic acid synthesis. In clinical trials, it was confirmed that RME significantly reduced the area, depth, number, volume, and density of pores-key parameters for assessing pores-and it also reduced sebum levels. This suggests that RME has an astringent effect and could be used as a cosmetic ingredient to improve the appearance of pores by controlling sebum production and influencing ECM-related factors.

Keyword

표/그림 (6)

표 Table 1. Components of Essence
그림 Figure 1. Reduction of sebum production by RME in sebocytes. Sebocytes were incubated with RME under 100 µM palmitic acid for 48 h. (A) Sebum production level was detected by nile red staining. From the top left, NT (control), palmitic acid (PA) treatment group, PA and EGCG treatment group, and from the bottom left, RME 10 and 50 µg/mL treatment groups. (B) Fluorescence intensity was analyzed using Image J program. (C) Cell viability was confirmed by MTT at the concentration used in the experiment. Scale bar is 100 µm. All results are shown as the mean ± SD of triplicate data. ^# p < 0.01 compared to control group (NT), * p < 0.01, **p < 0.001 compared to palmitic acid treated group. NT: no treatment; PA: palmitic acid.
표 Table 2. Total Tannin Content of Rosa multiflora extract
그림 Figure 2. Changes in extracellular matrix-related factors by RME. (A) DPPH was reacted with RME or 10 µg/mL ascorbic acid and the radical scavenging capacity was detected by measuring absorbance at 517 nm. (B) HaCaT were pre-treated with RME for 1 h and then incubated with 1 µM cortisone for 16 h. The level of 11β-HSD1 promoter activation was determined by luminometer. (C) Fibroblast were incubated with RME under 10 ng/mL TNF-⍺ for 72 h. MMP-1 level was detected by ELISA. (D) HaCaT were incubated with RME for 24 h and hyaluronic acid level in collected conditioned media was measured by ELISA. All results are shown as the mean ± SD of triplicate data. ^# p < 0.05, ^##p < 0.01, ^###p < 0.001 compared to control group, * p < 0.01 compared to cortisone or TNF-α treated group.
그림 Figure 3. Skin pore improvement effect of RME. (A) The area of pores and improvement rate. (B) The depth of pores and improvement rate. (C) The number of pores and improvement rate. (D) The volume of pores and improvement rate. (E) The density of pores and improvement rate. (F) Images of facial pore improvement by Antera 3D and CS. Red spots means pores, and the deeper the depth, the darker the red. * p < 0.05, **p < 0.01, ***p < 0.001, ^# p < 0.05, ^##p < 0.01, ^###p < 0.001 by repeated measured ANOVA with Bonferroni correction.
그림 Figure 4. Sebum improvement effect of RME. Sebum was analyzed using a Sebumeter. * p < 0.025, **p < 0.005, ***p < 0.0005 by Wilcoxon Signed-Rank Test with Bonferroni correction, ^# p < 0.05, ^##p < 0.01, ^###p < 0.001 by Wilcoxon Signed-Rank Test with Δdelta data.

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