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[해외논문] The male beard hair and facial skin – challenges for shaving

International journal of cosmetic science, v.38 suppl.1, 2016년, pp.3 - 9  

Maurer, M. (Department of Dermatology and Allergy, Allergie‐) ,  Rietzler, M. (Centrum‐) ,  Burghardt, R. (Charité) ,  Siebenhaar, F. (, Charité)

Abstract AI-Helper 아이콘AI-Helper

AbstractThe challenge of shaving is to cut the beard hair as closely as possible to the skin without unwanted effects on the skin. To achieve this requires the understanding of beard hair and male facial skin biology as both, the beard hair and the male facial skin, contribute to the difficulties in...

Abstract

RésuméLe défi du rasage est de couper les cheveux de la barbe aussi près que possible de la peau sans effets indésirables sur la peau. Atteindre cet objectif exige la compréhension de la biologie des poils de barbe et de la peau du visage mâle, puisque les cheveux de la barbe et la peau du visage masculin contribuent aux difficultés à obtenir un rasage efficace sans une irritation cutanée induite. Peu d'informations sont disponibles sur la biologie des poils de barbe et les follicules pileux de la barbe. Nous savons que, dans les poils de la barbe, la densité, l’épaisseur, la rigidité, ainsi que les taux des formes elliptiques et d'un faible angle émergent sont élevés et très hétérogènes. Tout cela fait qu'il est difficile de les couper, et des techniques de rasage couramment employées pour surmonter ces défis comprennent le rasage avec une pression accrue et des multiples passages, ce qui augmente la probabilité et l'ampleur de l'irritation induite par le rasage. Plusieurs caractéristiques de la peau du visage mâle posent des problèmes à un rasage parfait. La peau du visage mâle est hétérogène dans la morphologie et de la rugosité et la peau des hommes a tendance à guérir plus lentement et de développer la pigmentation hyperinflammatoire. En outre, de nombreux hommes présentent une peau sensible, avec le visage le plus souvent affecté. Enfin, le follicule pileux est un organe sensoriel, et la peau périfolliculaire est très sensible à des signaux externes, y compris la stimulation mécanique et thermique. La peau périfolliculaire est riche en vasculature et innervation et en cellules du système immunitaire innée et adaptative. Cela rend la peau périfolliculaire très réactif et inflammatoire, en particulier chez les personnes ayant la peau sensible. L'activation de ce système, par le rasage, peut entraîner une irritation de la peau induite par le rasage. Les techniques couramment utilisées pour éviter cette irritation cutanée comprennent le rasage avec moins de pression, le traitement avant et après rasage, et l'arrêt complêt de se raser. Les progrès récents dans la technologie de rasage ont abordé certaines mais pas toutes ces questions. Une meilleure compréhension des poils de barbe, des follicules pileux de la barbe et de la peau du visage mâle est nécessaire pour développer de nouvelles et meilleures approches pour relever le défi du rasage. Cet article traite de ce qui est connu sur les propriétés physiques des poils de la barbe et de la peau et pourquoi celles‐ci présentent un défi pour le rasage à la lame et le rasage électrique, respectivement.

Keyword

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