This study investigate the transition about Japanese national costume kimono. The prototype of the present kimono is a kosode. The origin of kosode dates back to the mid-Heian period, when this type of kimono served as the everyday wear of commoners and an undergarment for court nobles, both men and...
This study investigate the transition about Japanese national costume kimono. The prototype of the present kimono is a kosode. The origin of kosode dates back to the mid-Heian period, when this type of kimono served as the everyday wear of commoners and an undergarment for court nobles, both men and women. In the Muromachi period, particularly after the Onin war, the kosode began to be by people of all classes. In the Muromachi period, kosode consisted mainly of woven textiles. In the Momoyama period, kosode became very elaborate, employing such various techniques as tie-dyeing, embroidery, metallic leaf(surihaku) and free-hand painting. These were further combined resulting in such techniques as tsujigahana dyeing and nuihaku, which are now considered to epitomize Momoyama-period textile design. A category of kosode of the early Edo period, known as Keicho kosode, is fashioned mainly from black, white, or red figured satin(rinzu), or from figured satin segmented in these three colors. Books of kosode designs began to be published in the Kambun era, when the merchant class was becoming economically powerful, kosode began to reflect its taste. During its final stage of development in the late 17th and early 18th centuries, yuzen dyeing achieved wide acceptance. From the late 18th century toward the early 19th century, kosode worn by the merchant class underwent drastic changes, while those worn by the samurai class changed little. In the after the late 18th century, clear differences in design and decorative methods appeared between the kosode worn by rich merchants and those worn by middle and lower class merchants.
This study investigate the transition about Japanese national costume kimono. The prototype of the present kimono is a kosode. The origin of kosode dates back to the mid-Heian period, when this type of kimono served as the everyday wear of commoners and an undergarment for court nobles, both men and women. In the Muromachi period, particularly after the Onin war, the kosode began to be by people of all classes. In the Muromachi period, kosode consisted mainly of woven textiles. In the Momoyama period, kosode became very elaborate, employing such various techniques as tie-dyeing, embroidery, metallic leaf(surihaku) and free-hand painting. These were further combined resulting in such techniques as tsujigahana dyeing and nuihaku, which are now considered to epitomize Momoyama-period textile design. A category of kosode of the early Edo period, known as Keicho kosode, is fashioned mainly from black, white, or red figured satin(rinzu), or from figured satin segmented in these three colors. Books of kosode designs began to be published in the Kambun era, when the merchant class was becoming economically powerful, kosode began to reflect its taste. During its final stage of development in the late 17th and early 18th centuries, yuzen dyeing achieved wide acceptance. From the late 18th century toward the early 19th century, kosode worn by the merchant class underwent drastic changes, while those worn by the samurai class changed little. In the after the late 18th century, clear differences in design and decorative methods appeared between the kosode worn by rich merchants and those worn by middle and lower class merchants.
고소데라는 용어가 처음 나타난 것은 헤이안시대인 10세기 중기경의 문헌 『西宮記』이고, 기모노라고하는 단어가 최초로 문헌에 보이게 된 것은 가마쿠라(鎌倉)시대인 13세기 중엽의 문헌 『古今著聞集』이다. 그후, 모모야마시대에는 의복의 대부분을 기루모노, 기모노로 부르게 되었고, 에도시대에는 기모노의 용어가 널리 보급되었다.
가마쿠라시대 서민의 고소데는 대부분 어떤 형태였는가?
2. 가마쿠라시대의 서민의 고소데는 내의와 외의를 겸한 한장의 옷으로서의 성격이 강하고, 남녀를 불문하고 마지에 홀치기염 등으로 간단한 문양을 나타낸 것이 대부분이었다. 또한, 가마쿠라시대에는 자수가 고소데의 장식기법으로 본격적으로 사용되기 시작하였다.
에도시대 고소데 의장에 나타난 유행은 무엇인가?
에도시대에는 고소데에 유행이 나타났다. 에도시대 초기 부케여성 사이에는 게이초고소데, 초닌여성 사이에는 간분고소데가 유행하였다. 이 시기의 가식기법은 스리하쿠, 홀치기, 가키에였다.
에도시대 중기에는 부케여성은 자수와 스리히타, 초닌여성은 유젠염의 장식기법이 나타났다.
에도시대 후기에는 쿠게여성은 자수기법, 부케여성은 자수와 스리히타 및 유젠염, 초닌여성은 홀치기, 자수, 가키에 등으로 기모노를 장식하였다.
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