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[국내논문] 패션 하우스의 디자인 정체성 연구 - 생 로랑 하우스를 중심으로 -
A Study on Design Identity of Fashion House - Focused on Saint Laurent House - 원문보기

服飾 = Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, v.65 no.2, 2015년, pp.105 - 124  

황혜림 (인천대학교 대학원 의류학과) ,  박은경 (인천대학교 패션산업학과)

Abstract ▼ AI-Helper 아이콘AI-Helper

This research was started to study how the design identity of an overseas fashion house was formed, changed and connected. For the purpose of the study, Saint Laurent House was selected as the subject of the study, because it began as a couture house and launched the $pr\hat{e}t-\grave{a}-porte...

Keyword

#디자인 정체성   #패션 하우스   #하우스 아카이브   #생 로랑   #시그니처 아이템  

질의응답

핵심어 질문 논문에서 추출한 답변
생 로랑 하우스 시그니처 룩엔 무엇이 있는가? 이브 생 로랑은 이 시그니처 룩을 본인 재직기간 동안 지속적으로 반복하여 제시하였다. 본연구에서는 생 로랑 하우스 시그니처 룩으로 피코트(pea coat), 루즈 핏(loose fit)/보우(bow) 블라우스, 팬츠 수트/스모킹(smoking), 사파리(safari), 점프수트(jumpsuit), 에스닉 룩(ethnic look)과 아트 룩(art look)을 선정하였다. 선정은 패션저술가 파리드 셰눈(Chenoune, Farid)이 이브 생 로랑의 에센셜(essential) 디자인으로 소개한 아이템들을 참고하되20) 생 로랑 컬렉션에 많이 나온 보우 블라우스를 포함시켰고 팬츠 수트와 스모킹을 같이 정리하였다.
본 연구에서 패션 하우스를 무엇이라 정의하였는가? 패션 기사나 컬렉션 리뷰 등에서는 오트 쿠튀르를 진행하지 않는 럭셔리 패션 브랜드를 패션 하우스라고 부르기도 한다. 본 연구에서는 패션 하우스를 쿠튀르 하우스에서 시작하여 이를 유지하거나, 오트 쿠튀르는 없어졌지만 그 전통을 이어받아 독창적인 디자인, 최상의 품질, 엄격한 장인정신을 현재까지 이어오고 있는 럭셔리 패션 브랜드로 정의하였다.
해외 럭셔리 패션 브랜드가 그 위상을 지킬 수 있는 이유는 무엇인가? 해외 럭셔리 패션 브랜드는 쿠튀르 하우스에서 이어져 온 경우가 많으며, 수석 디자이너가 교체되었음에도 불구하고 명품 브랜드의 위상을 지키고 있다. 그 이유는 시대의 변화와 후대 디자이너의 디자인 특성이 더해졌음에도 브랜드의 디자인 정체성(identity)이 지켜지기 때문이라고 판단된다. 따라서 해외 럭셔리 패션 브랜드 특히 패션 하우스의 디자인 정체성이 어떻게 형성되어, 시대에 따라 어떻게 변하며 이어져가는지를 연구한다면 우리나라 럭셔리 패션 브랜드의 정체성 확립과 계승, 발전에 도움을 줄 수 있을 것이다.
질의응답 정보가 도움이 되었나요?

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