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논문 상세정보

조선시대 초기 출토복식의 구성법에 관한 연구 ― 광주 민속박물관 소장 高雲 출토 포류를 중심으로

A study on Sewing Construction through the Excavated Costume of early of Chosun Period

한국사상과 문화 no.52 , 2010년, pp.241 - 271  
안명숙
초록

This research examines the sewing method of the Po's in the early Chosun period in priority. The research is about one-layer, two-layer, cotton clothes, quilted cloth in cateogories such as Po's 12 pieces, Juk-Ryung 2 pieces, Dan-Ryung 1 piece, Cheol-rik 6 pieces, and Dap-Ho 3 pieces during the Chosun Period, and also the defferent types of sewing methods categorized by strcture-type. Furthermore, the research focuses on different method of sewing in different parts of the clothes such as Deng-sol, Bae-rae, Ba-Dae, Kit(collar) etc.The one layered cloth with a frayed end used flat felled seam, and the ones with selvage used backstitch or half backstitch and was arranged with open seam.The neckband sewed in unlined garments, a side line band sewed in unlined garments, waistband sewed in unlined garments are only found in one layered cloth, and decorative saddle stitching was used to make it look beautiful and also was stiched with strength and made sure it was firm.The edges of the clothes including the hem line, outer collar line, and inter collar line was reinforced with same cloth or different cloth, and was stitched by inserting it towards the inside. The use of flat felled seam, decorative saddle stitching, and elvage on the edges was a very unique style of stitching.The two layered clothes used broad stitching, and the edge of the sleeve, collar, hem line, outer collar line, inner collar line used two stitches, three stitches, decorative saddle stitches was used in the edge in order to hold the outer cloth and the inner cloth together. The pleats in the double cheol-rik had a distance of 0.3cm, and was precise as much as the one layered cloth.The cotton clothes used big stiches instead of using elaborate stitches due to the thickness of the cotton. Also, decorative saddle stitch was used in the edge of a sleeve, collar, and hem in order to hold the cotton cloth in position.

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