본 연구의 목적은 적합성과 기능성이 고려된 체형별 남성 상의 원형 패턴을 개발하는데 있다. 피험자는 인체계측자료와 측면체형 사진에 의해 선정하고, 체형은 굴신체형, 표준체형, 반신체형으로 분류하였다. 체형별 실험 원형 패턴의 평가를 위하여 기존원형을 선정하였으며, 연구 결과는 다음과 같다; 1. 착의평가 결과 표준체형은 대부분의 항목에서 적합하였으나, 굴신체형과 반신체형에서는 많은 차이가 있었다. 이러한 차이는 앞길이와 등길이 뿐만 아니라 여유량과 윗 가슴둘레에 서 나타난다. 앞품과 뒤품은 외관에 의해 많은 영향을 받으며, 증가된 옆품은 앞품과 뒤품의 부족분을 보충하는 역할을 하였다. 따라서 실험패턴은 기존패턴보다 각 체형에 더욱 적합하며, 체형 적합성과 동작기능성이 고려된 의복 제작을 위한 패턴설계는 인체의 구조와 동작연구에 의해 가능하였다. 2. 기본원형 패턴 설계를 위한 필요치수는 목뒤높이, 등길이, 앞길이, 윗 가슴둘레, 앞품과 뒤품이며, 체형분류의 기준은 윗 가슴둘레, 앞품, 뒤품, 앞길이, 등길이이다. 이와 같은 결과를 근거로 가슴둘레 선은 [(B/2+B/10), 뒤진동깊이는 [(B/10+목뒤높이/10)]로 설정하고, 앞내림은 1.5cm로 하였다.
본 연구의 목적은 적합성과 기능성이 고려된 체형별 남성 상의 원형 패턴을 개발하는데 있다. 피험자는 인체계측자료와 측면체형 사진에 의해 선정하고, 체형은 굴신체형, 표준체형, 반신체형으로 분류하였다. 체형별 실험 원형 패턴의 평가를 위하여 기존원형을 선정하였으며, 연구 결과는 다음과 같다; 1. 착의평가 결과 표준체형은 대부분의 항목에서 적합하였으나, 굴신체형과 반신체형에서는 많은 차이가 있었다. 이러한 차이는 앞길이와 등길이 뿐만 아니라 여유량과 윗 가슴둘레에 서 나타난다. 앞품과 뒤품은 외관에 의해 많은 영향을 받으며, 증가된 옆품은 앞품과 뒤품의 부족분을 보충하는 역할을 하였다. 따라서 실험패턴은 기존패턴보다 각 체형에 더욱 적합하며, 체형 적합성과 동작기능성이 고려된 의복 제작을 위한 패턴설계는 인체의 구조와 동작연구에 의해 가능하였다. 2. 기본원형 패턴 설계를 위한 필요치수는 목뒤높이, 등길이, 앞길이, 윗 가슴둘레, 앞품과 뒤품이며, 체형분류의 기준은 윗 가슴둘레, 앞품, 뒤품, 앞길이, 등길이이다. 이와 같은 결과를 근거로 가슴둘레 선은 [(B/2+B/10), 뒤진동깊이는 [(B/10+목뒤높이/10)]로 설정하고, 앞내림은 1.5cm로 하였다.
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문제 정의
Therefore, the purpose of this study is to develop basic bodice patterns for men according to somatotype and taking into account both fit and comfort.
제안 방법
(2) Since the functional test should evaluate the fit of the clothing, counterparts were assorted to give priority to primary subject as a criterion of the secondary one, followed by a one-to-one comparison for the test. The test was conducted on four motions repeated three times and evaluated accordirg to a five-pint rating scale: (a)0 points fijr a similarity of comfort level, (b) one point for more comfort, (c) two points for the most comfort, (d) minus one point for lesser comfort, and (e) minus two points for the least comfort.
(3) The measurement of the pressure of the clothing was conducted to observe the fit of pattern, employing the same motion and pose the functional test. Each motion was measured at an interval of 0.
2. The measuring items for drawing a basic bodice pattern included full length posterior, back length, font length, chest circumference at scye, front and back interscye breadth. Neck depth and width employed chest circumference at scye whereas armhole circuinference used chest circumference at scye and full length posterior.
In addition, the results of the sensory tests on the experimental basic bodices were assessed finm the means, standard deviation, and overall means. An analysis of variance was conducted to assess the level of the significance of the results correlated to the first, second, and third test.
Men s basic bodices based on somatotypes were designed and manufectured by means of first and second modification. In addition, the results of the sensory tests on the experimental basic bodices were assessed finm the means, standard deviation, and overall means. An analysis of variance was conducted to assess the level of the significance of the results correlated to the first, second, and third test.
In this research, subjects with a distinctive somatotype were categorized into the bending somatotype, the standard somatotype, and the turning over somatotype by random sampling, In addition a sensory evaluation, functional test, and clothing pressure test were conducted at each stage for the respective subjects with manufectured clothing. Through correction and modification, mens basic bodice patterns for somatotypes were provided.
The breadth and lereth of shoulder sites were difcent in length in accordance with front and back interscye breadth. The experimental basic bodice for the bending somatotype, which required an area adjustment resulting fix)m the prominence of the scapula, was softened by shoulder darts and supplemented a back shoulder point due to the distorted shoulder shape of the subjects by cutting the shoulder point of the finnt bodice.
Kim's basic pattern model, developed for the standard balanced somatotype, was employed because of the fit for front and back interscye breadth and shoulder area with some ease at chest circumference at scye. The experimental basic bodices made from muslin and using the measurements of the subjects were designed and constructed according to somatotypes after being worn three times.
The necessary measurements were the full length posterior, the back lereth, the front length, the front interscye breadth, the back interscye breadth, and the chest ciiwrnfererice at scye.
대상 데이터
Six male Seoul residents in their 30's with prominent somatic characteristics were recruited to be photographed. The anthropometric measurements were taken using the method employed by R.
The subjects were measured in wearing trunks, standing upright with toes spread 45° apart. The anthropometric measurement was conducted on 21 items (Table 1) including directly measured and computed items.
데이터처리
The results of the wearing experiment on each experimental basic bodice were on the basis of the calculation for items mean and standard deviation, the difference between the respective experimental basic bodices, and an investeation of one-way ANOVA for the examination of significance. The SPSS Package was used in all statistical analysis.
이론/모형
Six male Seoul residents in their 30's with prominent somatic characteristics were recruited to be photographed. The anthropometric measurements were taken using the method employed by R. Martin's and KS A 7004 (AT & S, 1999) and the antropometry terms of KS A 7003 (AT & S, 1999). The subjects were measured in wearing trunks, standing upright with toes spread 45° apart.
성능/효과
1. As a result of the wearing evaluation, physical characteristics were shown to be an important factor affecting the shift of individual pattern type. The standard somatotype reported a relative fit, while the bending somatotype presented abending at the back reion and projection at back interscye breadth and back length, and the turning over somatotype showed front interscye and front length as well.
This study found that the chest circumference at scye was in accordance with the standard somatotype. While the chest drcurnference at scye ease of the standard somatotype increased depending on ease-amount and that of the bending and the turning over somatotype was reduced, the amount of cutting from front and back interscye breadth made a difierence of ease on side breadth.
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