본 연구의 목적은 한국전통문양의 문헌고찰 및 활용 사례의 분석을 통해 활용되는 문양의 종류와 문양의 상징적 의미를 살펴보고, 패션문화상품의 전통문양활용 실태를 토대로 문양의 상징성을 적용하여 텍스타일 디자인을 시도함으로써 패션문화상품 디자인 개발에 발전적 인 방향을 모색하고자 하였으며, 패션문화상품을 위한 텍스타일 디자인 개발 프로세스는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 패션문화상품을 광범위한 패션의 일부로 간주하여 2005년부터 2007년까지 최근 3년 동안 S/S 시즌의 패션트렌드를 살펴보고 이를 반영한 컨셉을 설정하였다 둘째, 패션문화상품에 많이 활용되고 있는 문양을 중심으로 텍스타일 디자인을 위한 문양을 선정하였다. 셋째, 패션문화상품 디자인 개발을 위한 아이템을 선정하고, 전통문양의 상징적 의미에 따라 아이템의 문양을 선정하였다. 넷째, 텍스타일 디자인에 활용할 모티브를 발췌하여 패턴의 배열방법에 따라 전개하였다. 끝으로, 전개된 텍스타일 디자인은 텍스타일 CAD(Tex pro)와 Illustrator 10을 활용하여 아이템별 도식화에 적용하고, 이미지로 제시하였다. 이상과 같은 디자인 프로세스를 통하여 본 연구에서는 다음과 같은 결론을 얻을 수 있었다. 첫째, 전통문양을 이용한 패션문화상품 디자인은 전통 문양 의미적 측면 외에 문양에 내재된 상징적 의미를 적용함으로써 한국의 전통미의식에 대한 이해와 철학적 접근이 이루어 질 수 있다. 둘째, 전통공예품이나 민예품에 사용되어 오면서 소비자에게 진부한 문양으로 인식된 전통문양은 형태를 변형하거나 간결한 형태로 단순화하여 이미지를 강조하고, 트렌드를 반영한 스타일 및 색채의 적용으로 현대적 감각의 디자인으로 재창조될 수 있다. 셋째, 전통 문양을 응용한 디자인은 표현기법과 제작방법에 따라 다양한 이미지와 시각적 효과로 표현될 수 있으며, 이에 활용범위가 확대되어 다양한 아이템에 적용될 수 있다. 넷째, 패션문화상품에서의 전통문양은 우리 고유의 독창적인 디자인 요소로 활용될 수 있어 고부가가치 상품개발을 위한 디자인 영감의 원천으로 활용될 수 있다. 향후 전통문양을 응용한 문화상품개발을 위해서는 전통문양에 대한 이해를 토대로 다양한 접근과 시도가 이루어져 다양한 상품이 개발되어져야 할 것으로 본다.
본 연구의 목적은 한국전통문양의 문헌고찰 및 활용 사례의 분석을 통해 활용되는 문양의 종류와 문양의 상징적 의미를 살펴보고, 패션문화상품의 전통문양활용 실태를 토대로 문양의 상징성을 적용하여 텍스타일 디자인을 시도함으로써 패션문화상품 디자인 개발에 발전적 인 방향을 모색하고자 하였으며, 패션문화상품을 위한 텍스타일 디자인 개발 프로세스는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 패션문화상품을 광범위한 패션의 일부로 간주하여 2005년부터 2007년까지 최근 3년 동안 S/S 시즌의 패션트렌드를 살펴보고 이를 반영한 컨셉을 설정하였다 둘째, 패션문화상품에 많이 활용되고 있는 문양을 중심으로 텍스타일 디자인을 위한 문양을 선정하였다. 셋째, 패션문화상품 디자인 개발을 위한 아이템을 선정하고, 전통문양의 상징적 의미에 따라 아이템의 문양을 선정하였다. 넷째, 텍스타일 디자인에 활용할 모티브를 발췌하여 패턴의 배열방법에 따라 전개하였다. 끝으로, 전개된 텍스타일 디자인은 텍스타일 CAD(Tex pro)와 Illustrator 10을 활용하여 아이템별 도식화에 적용하고, 이미지로 제시하였다. 이상과 같은 디자인 프로세스를 통하여 본 연구에서는 다음과 같은 결론을 얻을 수 있었다. 첫째, 전통문양을 이용한 패션문화상품 디자인은 전통 문양 의미적 측면 외에 문양에 내재된 상징적 의미를 적용함으로써 한국의 전통미의식에 대한 이해와 철학적 접근이 이루어 질 수 있다. 둘째, 전통공예품이나 민예품에 사용되어 오면서 소비자에게 진부한 문양으로 인식된 전통문양은 형태를 변형하거나 간결한 형태로 단순화하여 이미지를 강조하고, 트렌드를 반영한 스타일 및 색채의 적용으로 현대적 감각의 디자인으로 재창조될 수 있다. 셋째, 전통 문양을 응용한 디자인은 표현기법과 제작방법에 따라 다양한 이미지와 시각적 효과로 표현될 수 있으며, 이에 활용범위가 확대되어 다양한 아이템에 적용될 수 있다. 넷째, 패션문화상품에서의 전통문양은 우리 고유의 독창적인 디자인 요소로 활용될 수 있어 고부가가치 상품개발을 위한 디자인 영감의 원천으로 활용될 수 있다. 향후 전통문양을 응용한 문화상품개발을 위해서는 전통문양에 대한 이해를 토대로 다양한 접근과 시도가 이루어져 다양한 상품이 개발되어져야 할 것으로 본다.
The purpose of this study is to analyze the symbolism of traditional Korean patterns which reflect an emotional cultural background of Korean people, to apply modernized and developed patterns to Textile Design for fashion cultural products, and to explore productive direction of developing designs ...
The purpose of this study is to analyze the symbolism of traditional Korean patterns which reflect an emotional cultural background of Korean people, to apply modernized and developed patterns to Textile Design for fashion cultural products, and to explore productive direction of developing designs of fashion cultural products. The process of developing Textile Design of fashion cultural products which applied symbolism of traditional Korean patterns was conducted as follows. Firstly, based on '05 S/S-'07 S/S fashion trends, a design concept wat decided(man-urban ethnic style, woman-romantic ethnic style). Secondly, motive was abstracted from selected traditional patterns to develop into modem patterns. Thirdly, items were selected according to symbolic meaning of traditional Korean patterns. Man's items included shirts, necktie, and handkerchief which were highly preferred by Korean and foreign visitors. Finally, developed textile designs were diagrammed by item using textile CAD and an illustrator 10 and presented as images. The following results were obtained. First, textile designs for fashion cultural products, in which apply traditional patterns may reflect the understanding of traditional aesthetic beauty and philosophical approach by applying symbolic significance inherent in patterns as well as the aesthetics of the patterns. Second, traditional patterns have been recognized as old fashioned to consumers because they have been often used for traditional handicrafts or folk products. If their unique shapes are changed or simplified, emphasizing images, and trend styles and colors are used, they will be recreated as a modem design. Third, textile designs using traditional patterns may provide various images and visual effects according to techniques and production methods. Then, the method will be applied to many items. Finally, since traditional patterns in fashion cultural products can be used as our unique design elements, they can be utilized as the source of design inspiration for the development of value-added products.
The purpose of this study is to analyze the symbolism of traditional Korean patterns which reflect an emotional cultural background of Korean people, to apply modernized and developed patterns to Textile Design for fashion cultural products, and to explore productive direction of developing designs of fashion cultural products. The process of developing Textile Design of fashion cultural products which applied symbolism of traditional Korean patterns was conducted as follows. Firstly, based on '05 S/S-'07 S/S fashion trends, a design concept wat decided(man-urban ethnic style, woman-romantic ethnic style). Secondly, motive was abstracted from selected traditional patterns to develop into modem patterns. Thirdly, items were selected according to symbolic meaning of traditional Korean patterns. Man's items included shirts, necktie, and handkerchief which were highly preferred by Korean and foreign visitors. Finally, developed textile designs were diagrammed by item using textile CAD and an illustrator 10 and presented as images. The following results were obtained. First, textile designs for fashion cultural products, in which apply traditional patterns may reflect the understanding of traditional aesthetic beauty and philosophical approach by applying symbolic significance inherent in patterns as well as the aesthetics of the patterns. Second, traditional patterns have been recognized as old fashioned to consumers because they have been often used for traditional handicrafts or folk products. If their unique shapes are changed or simplified, emphasizing images, and trend styles and colors are used, they will be recreated as a modem design. Third, textile designs using traditional patterns may provide various images and visual effects according to techniques and production methods. Then, the method will be applied to many items. Finally, since traditional patterns in fashion cultural products can be used as our unique design elements, they can be utilized as the source of design inspiration for the development of value-added products.
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문제 정의
Accordingly, the purpose of this study was to examine the types of patterns and their symbolic significance through literature review on traditional Korean patterns, to attempt textile designs which applied traditional patterns associated with their symbolic significance based on the use of traditional patterns, and search for the expanded direction of design development of fashion cultural products.
In this study, to develop textile design using traditional Korean patterns, as shown in , patterns for textile design were selected based on frequently used patterns for fashion cultural products and applied to items in the consideration of their symbolic significance.
This study intended to analyze the types and symbolism of traditional Korean patterns through literature review in response to the need of the design development of fashion cultural products. By attempting textile designs based on this analysis, expanded direction of design development for fashion cultural products were examined.
제안 방법
Based on the types of traditional Korean patterns used for fashion qultural products and the analysis of their symbolic significance, this study applied symbolism inherent in such patterns to fashion cultural products and suggested their designs reflecting traditional Korean beauty.
A serial diamond pattern standing for a good luck and an ax pattern standing for firmness were also used. Designed patterns were arranged in a half drop pattern in tiers or a brick pattern. For color, cold colors such as blue and gray were used to produce a quiet and intelligent image, and the color contrast effect of high chroma was also applied fdr a unique and elegant image(Table 6).
First, the kinds and symbolism of traditional patterns were analyzed through an research of the history of Korean costume, the history of Korean art, the history of traditional Korean patterns, and excavated costume from the prehistoric age to the Joseon Dynasty, and a museum survey.
Selected items were a shirt, a necktie, and a handkerchief. For selected items, 亞(wealth and luck), seven treasures(fortune), and (fortune) patterns were applied to pray for men's social success in the consideration of symbolic significance of patterns. Patterns for each item were carefully selected to express their characteristics.
For study methods, literature review, case study, and experimental way were used to develop textile designs applying traditional Korean patterns. Study scope was as follows.
In this analysis, we found compromised culture, pure beauty of nature, the meeting of functionalism and design, and a feast of romantic moods. In this study, we established romantic & urban ethnic style as the concept by reflecting compromise of moderate culture and a romantic mood of exotic emotion which meets an ethnic trend(Fig. 1).
The focus of designs was on the expression of romantic and modem senses, reflecting recent the latest trends. Ethnic-style designs of a feminine and soft image were developed as an overall pattern which patterns occupy the whole pattern, and a panel pattern of single pattern.
A practical pattern developed by mixing stripe and unit patterns with this style. The whole development of patterns was focused on expression of traditional images with a modem sense, giving chroma contrast by 녀sing profbund and deep tones and pastel tones, and varied with items such as a shirt, a necktie, and a handkerchief.
significance of traditional patterns. Then, overall image and color fit for the concept were applied and developed according to pattern arrangement.
Third, to present detailed methods of textile design development using traditional Korean patterns, a design concept was established by analyzing trends of S/S seasons for recent three years, and then motives were established by selecting items suitable to symbolic significance of traditional patterns. Then, overall image and color fit for the concept were applied and developed according to pattern arrangement.
This study limited the application of a Four Gracious Plants(plum, orchid, chrysanthemum and bamboo) pattern to four scarves for women of 20s-30s. orchid, chrysanthemum, and plum patterns were selected in consideration of the symbolic significance and shape and fitness of a scarf design.
This study reclassified traditional patterns into geometric patterns, animal patterns, plant patterns, fortune patterns, and letter patterns based on previous researches on the classification of traditional Korean patterns. Bat, fingered citron, palmette leaves, letters, giraffe, Chinese phoenix, and turtle patterns symbolize a good fortune, and cloud, tortoise, shell, deer, crane, heavenly peach, neunghwapan, 卍, and 亞 patterns symbolize longevity.
To develop textile designs using treasure patterns, this study selected an old coin shape as a main motive for social success of men of 20s-30s because it stands for wealth and good fortune of seven treasures. A serial diamond pattern standing for a good luck and an ax pattern standing for firmness were also used.
대상 데이터
Collected fashion cultural products for analysis were a total of 240 items. We fbund the situation of fashion cultural products applying traditional patterns and the kind and expression methods as follows.
products. Selected items included a handbag, a T-shirt, and a scarf. For selected items, peony(riches and honors, lotusQiappiness), and Four Gracious Plants (nobility) patterns were applied to reflect women's preference of riches and honors, happiness, and nobility in the consideration of symbolic significance of patterns.
Selected items were a shirt, a necktie, and a handkerchief. For selected items, 亞(wealth and luck), seven treasures(fortune), and (fortune) patterns were applied to pray for men's social success in the consideration of symbolic significance of patterns.
성능/효과
products. Finally, selected items included peony, lotus, and Four Gracious Plants of plant patterns, 亞 of geometric patterns, treasure of fortune patterns, and 福 of letter patterns which were highly used.
First, textile designs for fashion cultural products which apply traditional patterns may reflect the understanding of traditional aesthetic beauty and philosophical approach by applying symbolic significance inherent in patterns as well as the aesthetics of the patterns.
Second, in the analysis of 240 patterns of foshion cultural products using traditional patterns, it was fbund that the most used pattern was plant patterns (60%), followed by mixed pattems(20%), animal pattems(9%)? geometric pattems(7%), and fortune and letter pattems(4%)(Table 3).
참고문헌 (8)
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The Culture and Tourism Ministry. (1998). A study on improvements and boost of fashion merchandise based upon the Korean culture. Seoul: The Culture and Tourism Ministry
Jung, O. S. G. (2001). A study on the market condition in the domestic tour shopping goods and the recognition survey about culture- related fashion items by vendors in the fous of insadong and itaewon. Unpublished master's dissertation, Inha University Graduate School, Incheon
Seo, H. H. (2001). The study on development of cultural merhandise using fabric material-based on Korean traditional images. Journal of the Korean Society of Craft, 4(1) 47-49
Kim, H. K. & Jung, S. I. (2000). The study on cap design for developing tourist souvenir - Applying traditional bat motifs. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 24(8),1209-1219
Fashion Trend. (2005 S/S-2007 S/S). Interfashion planning. Retrieved March 13, 2006, from http://www.ifp.co.kr
Chang, S. K. (1994), A study on classification of korean traditional patterns based on their types. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 2(2), 284-289
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