A purpose of this study is to do fundamental research of construction of coat patterns in the Daehan Empire in order to make replicas of the costumes. This study is composed of literature research, investigation of artifacts, and experiment of pattern making. The results of this study are as follows...
A purpose of this study is to do fundamental research of construction of coat patterns in the Daehan Empire in order to make replicas of the costumes. This study is composed of literature research, investigation of artifacts, and experiment of pattern making. The results of this study are as follows. First, even if the 15th Court Dress Rules regulated color, fabric, number of flower, width of braid, and size of button, there was no regulation regarding the shape of the coat. The analysis of the photos in those periods shows that the style of the tailcoat was different from that of today in the length of the front, the shape of breast and collar. Second, six artifacts in the collection showed that the shoulder line and the sideline were located on the further rear side than the current tailcoat. This can be confirmed in the western and Japanese pattern book, and especially the pattern drafting method in the books published in Japan in 1900s is different from current one in setting base lines of front bodice and back bodice. As a result, based on several experiments, this study proposes how to make coat patterns. The shoulder line, the sideline, and the princess line should be located in the back of the dress similar to the shape of swallowtail coats of 1900s. The front bodice should be constructed without the composition line in order to add embroidery on it. The collar, which shape looks like long half moon, should form V-shape neckline in the front breast when adjusting dress. The sleeves should be constructed top and down, and it should curve more than the modern design.
A purpose of this study is to do fundamental research of construction of coat patterns in the Daehan Empire in order to make replicas of the costumes. This study is composed of literature research, investigation of artifacts, and experiment of pattern making. The results of this study are as follows. First, even if the 15th Court Dress Rules regulated color, fabric, number of flower, width of braid, and size of button, there was no regulation regarding the shape of the coat. The analysis of the photos in those periods shows that the style of the tailcoat was different from that of today in the length of the front, the shape of breast and collar. Second, six artifacts in the collection showed that the shoulder line and the sideline were located on the further rear side than the current tailcoat. This can be confirmed in the western and Japanese pattern book, and especially the pattern drafting method in the books published in Japan in 1900s is different from current one in setting base lines of front bodice and back bodice. As a result, based on several experiments, this study proposes how to make coat patterns. The shoulder line, the sideline, and the princess line should be located in the back of the dress similar to the shape of swallowtail coats of 1900s. The front bodice should be constructed without the composition line in order to add embroidery on it. The collar, which shape looks like long half moon, should form V-shape neckline in the front breast when adjusting dress. The sleeves should be constructed top and down, and it should curve more than the modern design.
대한제국의 서구식 문관 대례복은 1910년까지 10년간 착용되었다. 이 시기에 착용된 대례복 유물은 현재 기증 또는 구입의 방식으로 각각 다른 박물관에 8점 가량 소장되어 있다.
칙령 제14호 문관복장규칙은 어떤 내용인가?
1) 칙령 제14호 문관복장규칙은 다음과 같은 내용으로 구성되어 있다. 먼저, 착용자 규정으로 대례복은 칙임관과 주임관만 착용하는데 여기에는 궁내부와 외각부원까지 포함하고 무관과 경관도 문관으로 전임하거나 때에 따라 문관대례복을 착용하며 판임관은 부득이한 경우 소례복을 대례복으로 대신하도록 한다. 다음으로 착용일에 관한 규정으로 問安時, 動駕動輿時, 因公陛見時, 宮中賜宴時로 정해졌는데 이는 황제를 알현하거나 황제와 관련된 이동, 연회에 참석할 때 착용하는 것으로 파악할 수 있다. 마지막으로 일습의 구성품 규정으로 대례모, 대례의, 조끼, 대례고, 검, 검대, 白布下襟(칼라 안쪽에 다는 땀받이용 흰색 천), 백색 장갑으로 이루어져 있다.
대한제국은 언제 서구식 문관 대례복 제도를 도입하였는가?
대한제국은 1900년 4월 17일에 칙령 제14호 문관 복장규칙, 칙령 제15호 문관대례복 제식을 발표함으로써 서구식 문관 대례복 제도를 전면적으로 도입하였다.1) 칙령 제14호 문관복장규칙은 다음과 같은 내용으로 구성되어 있다.
참고문헌 (26)
이경미 (2010), 대한제국 1900년(光武4) 문관대례복 제도와 무궁화 문양의 상징성, 복식, 60(3), pp. 125-126.
문화재청 (2012), 근.현대 문화유산 의생활분야 목록화 조사보고서, 서울: 카피웍스
이경미 (2008), 대한제국의 서구식 대례복 패러다임, 서울대학교 대학원 박사학위논문
篠崎文子(1999), 紳士服の形態硏究-文官大？服の仕立てに關する一考察-, 日本服飾學會誌, 通號18, pp. 144-150.
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