[논문]피부미용 관련 천연 자외선 차단 소재 연구동향 분석

김현숙

doi:10.12925/jkocs.2021.38.1.107

피부미용 관련 천연 자외선 차단 소재 연구동향 분석
A Study on the Trends of the Natural UV Protection Materials Related to Skin Beauty 원문보기

Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology = 한국응용과학기술학회지, v.38 no.1, 2021년, pp.107 - 117

김현숙 (원광대학교 피부미용학과)

초록
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본 연구의 목적은 천연 소재를 이용한 자외선 차단 제품 개발의 기초 자료로 제공하는 것을 목적으로 하였다. 연구 방법은 피부미용 관련 자외선 차단제의 국내외 산업 현황과 천연 소재 연구 동향, 그리고 특허 현황을 조사하여 분석하였다. 연구 결과 자외선 차단제는 미국 시장이 전 세계의 약 21%를 차지하는 가장 큰 시장이며 중국 시장이 급격하게 성장하고 있다. 기능성 화장품 주요 4종의 국내 생산실적 1위는 복합기능제품이며, 주름개선과 자외선 차단제, 미백의 순으로 나타났으며 세계시장 및 국내시장 모두 지속적으로 성장하고 있다. 최근 10년간 천연 자외선 차단 소재 연구동향을 조사하여 분석한 결과 황금, 홉, 감초, 핑거루트, 녹차, 야관문 추출물 등이 효능이 있으며 그 이외에도 광노화, 항산화, 항염, 항균, 미백, 주름개선 등의 효능도 있는 것으로 나타났다. 특허 등록 현황은 건수가 증가하는 추세이며 식물이나 해조류에서 성분을 확보하고 있었다. 본 연구의 결론은 향후 세계적 트렌드에 맞춰 안전하고 효능이 증명된 천연 자외선 차단 소재들을 개발해 간다면 다기능 천연 기능성 화장품 소재로 충분히 활용 가능할 것으로 전망된다.

Abstract ▼ AI-Helper

The purpose of this study is to provide basic data for the development of UV protection products using natural materials. The research method is investigation and analyzation of the current status of the domestic and foreign industries, natural material research trends, and patent status of skin care-related sunscreen. As the result of the study, the U.S. market for sunscreen is the largest one, accounting for about 21% of the world, and the Chinese market is rapidly growing. The top four major types of functional cosmetics in Korea are complex functional products, followed by wrinkle improvement, sunscreen and whitening, and both the global and domestic markets continue to grow continuously. Over the past decade, research trends in natural sunscreen materials have shown that Scutellaria baicalensis, Humulus lupulus L., licorice, Finger root, Green tea, lespedeza cuneata extracts are effective, and in addition, they are also effective in photo-aging, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, whitening, and wrinkle improvement. The patent registration status is on the rise and the ingredients were secured from plants and seaweeds. As the conclusion of this research, It is expected that natural UV protection material will be able to be used as multi-functional cosmetics material by developing safe and proven natural materials in line with future global trends.

주제어

표/그림 (8)

그림 Fig. 1. Worldwide Sun Care Market Size (2015-2017).
그림 Fig. 2. Sun Care Market Size by Country (2015-2017, Unit: million dollars)
표 Table 1. Cosmetic Industry Analysis(Korea Health Industry Promotion Agency, 2019) (Unit: million dollars)
그림 Fig. 3. Productivity Performance of Functional Cosmetics (Ministry of Food and Drug Safety, 2020, Unit: KRW 100 million)
표 Table 2. Production Performance of Functional Cosmetics(Ministry of Food and Drug Safety, 2020, Unit: KRW 100 million)
표 Table 3. A Study on Natural UV Protection Materials(2010-2020)
그림 Fig. 4. Patents Count Annual Trend by Keywords.
표 Table 4. Typical Patent Cases with Natural UV Protection Material [25]

AI 본문요약
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문제 정의

In this study, the current status of domestic and foreign industries, related research trends, and patent status of natural sunscreen materials related to skin beauty were investigated, and the results of the study were as follows.
The purpose of this study is to identify the industry status of UV protection cosmetics, which are used daily cosmetics regardless of age or gender, and to investigate, analyze, and draw conclusions on patent status along with research trends on natural sunscreen materials, and provide the results as basic data for the development of sunscreen products using natural materials.

제안 방법

In this study, we selected and described a typical patent case in the table among the patents with natural UV protection materials that meets the purpose of this study, except for such patents as pure technology or formulation production of sunscreen.(Table 4) Overall patent registration shows some consistent trends: First, most of them are patented using natural UV protecting ingredients extracted from plants such as chamomile and lily or from see weeds such as brown seaweed and chlorella.

성능/효과

After checking plant extracts' UV protection (280–400 nm area), 11 types of plant extracts were found to have excellent UV protection capabilities, including Scutellaria baicalensis, Humulus lupulus L., Green tea, licorice, Ledebouriella seseloides, Arrowroot, Graviola, Wheat sprout, Morus alba L., Sicyos angulatus L., lacquer, etc. Scutellaria baicalensis, Humulus lupulus L.
Third, after verifying the patent registration status of UV protection materials over the past 10 years, the number of registration continues to increase, and among them, patents using natural materials have been rapidly increasing in the past three to four years. Most of the patents use natural UV protection ingredients extracted from natural plants and seaweeds, and applications were made by cosmetics companies and university industry-academic cooperation groups for the purpose of using them as cosmetics or sunscreen.

참고문헌 (25)

S. Y. Park, "A Study on Recognition, Current Use and Satisfaction with Natural Cosmetic Products", Sungshin Women's University, p. 9, (2020).
State of Hawaii. "The Seventy-Ninth Legislature", 2018, S. B. NO. 2571. 2020, https://www.capitol.hawaii.gov/session2018/bills/SB2571_.HTM. (accessed Jan., 27, 2021)
National Legal Information Center. https://www.law.go.kr/, Functional Cosmetics Act. (accessed Jan., 22, 2021)
Y. J. Jeong, Y. H. Pyo, "Practical Cosmetology", Kuminsa, pp. 16-17, (2017).
H. Im, "The Developmental Trend & Future Prospect Of The Functional Cosmetics Market", Chung-Ang University, p. 49, (2004).
Korea Health Industry Promotion Agency. "2019 Cosmetic Industry Analysis Report", pp. 29, (2019).
Korea Health Industry Promotion Agency. "2019 Cosmetic Industry Analysis Report", pp. 31-37, (2019).
Korea Health Industry Promotion Agency. "2019 Cosmetic Industry Analysis Report", p. 42, (2019).
Ministry of Food and Drug Safety. "Functional Cosmetics production performance", p. 7, (2020).
Ministry of Food and Drug Safety. "Functional Cosmetics production performance", p. 7, (2020).
Ministry of SMEs and Startups. "Small and Medium Business Technology Roadmap", (2018-2020).
J. S. Moon. "Development of natural sunscreen using plant extracts", Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology, Vol.37, No.5, pp. 1138-1150, (2020).

원문보기 상세보기
Y. J. Jeon, "Functional Characterization of Extracts from Nipa palm, Molokhia, and Finger root and Their Application to Cosmetics", Dongduk Women's University, p. 70, (2020).
S. B. Lee, Chengliang Zuo, Yang Xu, and In Kwon Hong, "Emulsification of Natural Sunscreen with Green Tea Extract : Optimization Using CCD-RSM", Applied Chemistry for Engineering, Vol.31, No.5, pp. 532-538, (2020).

원문보기 상세보기
D. H. Kim, W. R. Bae, Yun-Sun Kim, Dong-won Shin, Sun-Gyoo Park, and Nae-Gyu Kang, "Photoprotective Effects of Silybum marianum Extract", Journal of Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, Vol.45, No.2, p. 215, (2019).
J. H. Lee, "Effects of Sorghum (Sorghum bicolor Moench) Extracts on Anti-inflammatory, Anti-aging, and Ultraviolet Protection", Konkuk University, (2018).
C. Kim, S. B. Jeong, G. H. Im, M. H. Kang, J. H. An, J. H. Kim, H. Lee, "Development of Multifunctional Natural Sunscreen (BHC-S) Having Sunscreening and Anti-wrinkle", Journal of Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, Vol.43, No.4, p. 321, (2017).

원문보기 상세보기
J. Y. Hyun, "Bioactive properties of Orostachys japonicus extracts as functional cosmetic materials", Inje University, p. 50, (2017).
T. Y. Kim, S. A. Jang, Y. B. Chae, J. P. Park, "Antioxidant and Protective Effects of Leonurus sibiricus L. Extract on Ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced Damage in Human Keratinocytes", Korean Journal of Plant Resources, Vol.29, No.1, p. 18, (2016).
J. W. Yang, C. S. Kwak, "Inhibitory effect of Aralia elata ethanol extract against skin damage in UVB-exposed human keratinocytes and human dermal fibroblasts", Journal of Nutrition and Health, Vol.49, No.6, p. 435, (2016).
M. R. Han, "Study on the physiological activities of the compositae three species extracts (inulae flos, chrysanthemi flos, carthami flos)", Daegu Oriental Medicine University, p. 97, (2013).
H. J. Kim, K. S. Kim, D. I. Kim, "Inhibitory Effects of Lespedeza cuneata Ethanol Extract on Ultraviolet-Induced Photo Aging", Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition, Vol.41, No.1, p. 1544, (2012).
Y. J. Jeon, S. H. Lee, S. J. Heo, B. S. Jin, "Functional Characterization of the Extracts from Nipa Palm, Molokhia, and Finger Root for Cosmetic Ingredients", Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology, Vol.36, No.3, pp. 821-829, (2019).
KOTRA, "2018 Global Market Report", p. 26, (2018).
KPRIS, http://www.kipris.or.kr. (accessed Jan., 27, 2021)

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동의어: Packet Collision Rate

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