[논문]Lipid‐based submicron capsules as a strategy to include high concentrations of a hydrophobic lightening agent in a hydrogel

Nguyen, H. T. P.; Soucé; , M.; Perse, X.; Vial, F.; Perrier, T.; Yvergnaux, F.; Chourpa, I.; Munnier, E.

doi:10.1111/ics.12397

[해외논문] Lipid‐based submicron capsules as a strategy to include high concentrations of a hydrophobic lightening agent in a hydrogel

International journal of cosmetic science, v.39 no.4, 2017년, pp.450 - 456

Nguyen, H. T. P. (Université) , Soucé, M. (Franç) , Perse, X. (ois Rabelais de Tours, EA6295 Nanomé) , Vial, F. (dicaments et Nanosondes, 31 avenue Monge, Tours, 37200, France) , Perrier, T. (Université) , Yvergnaux, F. (Franç) , Chourpa, I. (ois Rabelais de Tours, EA6295 Nanomé) , Munnier, E. (dicaments et Nanosondes, 31 avenue Monge, Tours, 37200, France)

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AbstractObjectiveThis study aimed at increasing the concentration of a hydrophobic lightening agent, Omegalight®, in a hydrophilic cosmetic product by means of encapsulation in lipid‐based submicron capsules. The core of these capsules is entirely made of the commercial lightening agent.MethodsLipid‐based encapsulation systems (LNC) were prepared by the PIT method. Their physicochemical properties were followed over 6 months by dynamic light scattering and zeta potential measurements, and in parallel, the potential degradation of the active ingredient was monitored by HPLC. The stability of the capsules in a cosmetic gel was studied by spectrofluorimetry and rheology measurements. Sensory analysis was used to determine the influence of the presence of capsules in the gel on the consumer's experience.ResultsLNC encapsulating Omegalight® were prepared on a laboratory scale and then on a semi‐pilot scale. Their hydrodynamic diameters are around 230 nm. The concentration of Omegalight® in the capsules reaches about 84% w/w, which corresponds to 42% of active ingredient. LNC can be dispersed without degradation at concentrations of up to 20% w/w in a hydrogel without modification of the physicochemical or sensory properties of the gel.ConclusionLipid‐based capsules (LNC), an encapsulation system useful for the epidermal delivery of hydrophobic compounds, were adapted to the encapsulation of a commercial lightening agent. The encapsulation permits the dispersion in a stable manner of a very high concentration of a hydrophobic active molecule in a hydrogel while maintaining the physicochemical and sensory properties of the gel.

Abstract

RésuméObjectifLa présente étude vise à augmenter la concentration d'un agent éclaircissant hydrophobe, Omegalight®, dans un produit cosmétique hydrophile par encapsulation dans des capsules submicroniques à base de lipides. Le noyau de ces capsules est entièrement constitué de l'agent éclaircisseur commercial.MéthodesLes systèmes de nanocapsules lipidiques (LNC) ont été préparés par la méthode PIT. Leurs propriétés physico‐chimiques ont été suivies pendant 6 mois par diffusion dynamique de la lumière et mesures du potentiel zêta, et en parallèle, la dégradation potentielle de l'ingrédient actif a été surveillée par HPLC. La stabilité des capsules dans un gel cosmétique a été étudiée par spectrofluorimétrie et mesures de rhéologie. L'analyse sensorielle a été utilisée pour déterminer l'influence de la présence de capsules dans le gel pour le consommateur.ResultatsLes nanocaspules lipidiques Omegalight® ont été préparées à l’échelle d'essai laboratoire, puis sur une échelle semi‐pilote. Leurs diamètres hydrodynamiques sont d'environ 230 nm. La concentration d'Omegalight® dans les capsules atteint environ 84% p / p, ce qui correspond à 42% d'ingrédient actif. Les LNC peuvent être dispersés sans dégradation à des concentrations allant jusqu’à 20% p / p dans un hydrogel sans modification des propriétés physico‐chimiques ou sensorielles du gel.ConclusionLes nanocapsules lipidiques (LNC), un système d'encapsulation utile pour la libération épidermique de composés hydrophobes, ont été adaptés à l'encapsulation d'un agent éclaircissant commercial. L'encapsulation permet la dispersion de manière stable d'une concentration très élevée d'une molécule active hydrophobe dans un hydrogel tout en maintenant les propriétés physico‐chimiques et sensorielles du gel.

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