Kim, Ye Hyang
(Efficacy Research department, Natural Products and Materials Research Institute, SK Bioland)
,
Park, Hye Rim
(Efficacy Research department, Natural Products and Materials Research Institute, SK Bioland)
,
Cha, So Yoon
(Efficacy Research department, Natural Products and Materials Research Institute, SK Bioland)
,
Lee, So Hun
(Efficacy Research department, Natural Products and Materials Research Institute, SK Bioland)
,
Jo, Jung Wung
(Efficacy Research department, Natural Products and Materials Research Institute, SK Bioland)
,
Go, Jung Nam
(Efficacy Research department, Natural Products and Materials Research Institute, SK Bioland)
,
Lee, Kang Hyuk
(Efficacy Research department, Natural Products and Materials Research Institute, SK Bioland)
,
Lee, Su Yeon
(Efficacy Research department, Natural Products and Materials Research Institute, SK Bioland)
,
Shin, Song Seok
(Efficacy Research department, Natural Products and Materials Research Institute, SK Bioland)
Background: In aged skin, degradation of collagen fibers, which occupy the majority of the extracellular matrix in the dermis, and changes of aquaporin 3 (AQP3) and skin constituents, such as hyaluronic acid and ceramide, cause wrinkles and decrease skin moisturization to contribute to dryness and l...
Background: In aged skin, degradation of collagen fibers, which occupy the majority of the extracellular matrix in the dermis, and changes of aquaporin 3 (AQP3) and skin constituents, such as hyaluronic acid and ceramide, cause wrinkles and decrease skin moisturization to contribute to dryness and lower elasticity skin. Red ginseng (RG) is used as a cosmetic and food material and is known to protect from UVB-induced cell death, increase skin hydration, prevent wrinkles, and have an antioxidative effect. But, in general, RG used as a material is the soluble liquid portion in the solvent, and the part that is not soluble in the solvent is discarded. Thus, we made the whole RG into microgranulation and dispersed in water to produce gel form for using entire RG, and it was named red ginseng NaturalGEL (RG NGEL). Methods: RG NGEL was investigated for matrix metalloproteinases inhibitory activity, induction of Type I collagen, AQP3, hyaluronan synthetase 2, serine palmitoyl transferase, ceramide synthase 3, and filaggrin expression and compared with RG water extract. Results: RG NGEL reduced the levels of UV-induced matrix metalloproteinases and increased Type I collagen in human fibroblast cells and upregulated AQP3, hyaluronan synthetase 2, serine palmitoyl transferase, ceramide synthase 3, and filaggrin expressions in human keratinocytes compared with RG water extract. Conclusion: RG NGEL has the potential as an effective reagent for antiaging cosmetics to improve wrinkle formation and skin hydration.
Background: In aged skin, degradation of collagen fibers, which occupy the majority of the extracellular matrix in the dermis, and changes of aquaporin 3 (AQP3) and skin constituents, such as hyaluronic acid and ceramide, cause wrinkles and decrease skin moisturization to contribute to dryness and lower elasticity skin. Red ginseng (RG) is used as a cosmetic and food material and is known to protect from UVB-induced cell death, increase skin hydration, prevent wrinkles, and have an antioxidative effect. But, in general, RG used as a material is the soluble liquid portion in the solvent, and the part that is not soluble in the solvent is discarded. Thus, we made the whole RG into microgranulation and dispersed in water to produce gel form for using entire RG, and it was named red ginseng NaturalGEL (RG NGEL). Methods: RG NGEL was investigated for matrix metalloproteinases inhibitory activity, induction of Type I collagen, AQP3, hyaluronan synthetase 2, serine palmitoyl transferase, ceramide synthase 3, and filaggrin expression and compared with RG water extract. Results: RG NGEL reduced the levels of UV-induced matrix metalloproteinases and increased Type I collagen in human fibroblast cells and upregulated AQP3, hyaluronan synthetase 2, serine palmitoyl transferase, ceramide synthase 3, and filaggrin expressions in human keratinocytes compared with RG water extract. Conclusion: RG NGEL has the potential as an effective reagent for antiaging cosmetics to improve wrinkle formation and skin hydration.
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제안 방법
Chromatographic analysis was performed by HPLC (Shimadzu, prominence, Japan) equipped with a C18 column (250 x 4.6 mm id). The flow rate was 1 ml/min, the column temperature was 35℃, and the peak was detected using an ultraviolet absorption spectrophotometer (UV 203 nm).
To evaluate the cytotoxicity of RG NGEL and RG WE, samples were treated at various concentrations in fibroblast cells and keratinocytes, and MTT assay was performed. RG NGEL and RG WE showed no cytotoxicity at concentrations between 0 and 500 mg/ml in fibroblast cells.
These MMPs contribute for wrinkle formation and reduction of skin elasticity [4]. To examine RG NGEL and RG WE inhibiting MMPs, we measured MMP-1, MMP-2, and MMP-9 levels and MMP-2 and MMP-9 activity. As shown in Fig.
S1). To further investigate this result, we conducted an additional LCMS analysis (data not shown). Because the TEMPO reaction is an oxidative process, ginsenosides were expected to break off the sugar or split into smaller molecules after TEMPO reaction [31e33].
To investigate ginsenosides, the main components of RG, contained in RG WE and RG NGEL, we performed HPLC analysis (Fig. S1). Accurate analysis of these two substances was performed by comparing the HPLC peak with standard materials of Rg1, Re, Rb1, Rh1-S, and Rh1-R (Sigma-Aldrich, USA).
And, RG ethanol extract induced the synthesis of collagen and suppressed MMP-1 activity, but not WE [16]. To investigate whether RG NGEL and RG WE increase the production of Col-I, we performed qRT-PCR, and the results are shown in Fig. 2. RG WE did not increase Col-I mRNA expression, but the group treated with RG NGEL at 250 and 500 mg/ml induced Col-I expression at 128.
성능/효과
As shown in Fig. 3, after treatment with RG NGEL, MMP-1, MMP-2, and MMP-9 mRNA levels were decreased by approximately 43.7%, 30.3%, and 25.1%, respectively (p < 0.001).
In conclusion, RG NGEL reduced wrinkle formation by increasing Col-I, a main form in human skin and a predominant constituent of ECM proteins, and suppression of MMP-1, MMP-2 and MMP-9 expression to cause collagen or elastin degradation. And, further RG NGEL increased the levels of AQP3 and HAS2 associated with skin hydration.
Our results showed that RG NGEL effectively increased transcription of AQP3, FLG, HAS2, and SPT (Fig. 5A) and protein expression of FLG and CERS3 compared with RG WE (Fig. 5B and C). These results suggested that RG NGEL has the effect of skin hydration and elasticity by inducing moisturization-related factors, AQP3, HAS2, SPT, FLG, and CERS3.
The mRNA expression levels of MMP-1, MMP-2, MMP-9, Col-I, AQP3, HAS2, SPT, and FLG were evaluated relative to the levels of β-actin, and UVA 6 J/cm2 or control was considered to be 100%.
4). These results showed that RG NGEL has the improvement of skin elasticity and wrinkle formation. In our analysis of RG WE, Rb1 content was 2.
5B and C). These results suggested that RG NGEL has the effect of skin hydration and elasticity by inducing moisturization-related factors, AQP3, HAS2, SPT, FLG, and CERS3.
001) on treating with RG WE compared with treating with RG WE. These results suggested that RG NGEL might induce the levels of AQP3, HAS2, SPT, FLG, and CERS3 to contribute to skin moisturization and elasticity.
후속연구
However, we found that RG NGEL showed wrinkle and elasticity improvement and moisturizing effect even without ginsenosides. Therefore, further investigations are required to clarify components structure and active ingredients contained in RG NGEL.
Also, it was known that CER increases the expression of caspase-14 and that the degradation of FLG into amino acids contributes to NMFs maintaining water content [11,12]. Therefore, further studies are needed on TIMP, mitogen-activated protein kinase pathway, AP-1 regulatory mechanisms, skin elasticity, and the alteration of caspase-14, an FLG-processing enzyme.
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