최소 단어 이상 선택하여야 합니다.
최대 10 단어까지만 선택 가능합니다.
다음과 같은 기능을 한번의 로그인으로 사용 할 수 있습니다.
NTIS 바로가기The Research Journal of the Costume Culture = 복식문화연구, v.28 no.4, 2020년, pp.544 - 561
김이랑 (부산대학교 의류학과) , 권미정 (부산대학교 의류학과)
Goldwork embroidery is the art of embroidery using metal threads. As well as being used as a decorative element of religious clothing, flags, performing costumes, uniforms, and badges, goldwork embroidery is also used in many current designer collections. Therefore, this study aimed to examine the t...
핵심어 | 질문 | 논문에서 추출한 답변 |
---|---|---|
자수는 어떤 기법인가? | 이처럼 디테일은 패션에서 아주 중요한 요소가 되었는데, 그중에서도 가장 흔하게 사용되는 것이 바로 자수이다. 자수는 바늘을 사용하여 색실을 원단에 장식하는 기법으로 자수 장식은 샤넬과 구찌뿐만 아니라, 루이비통, 돌체앤가바나, 버버리 등 많은 패션브랜드에서 사용하고 있는 장식법이다. | |
골드워크 자수에 사용되는 기법으로 무엇이 있는가? | 대표적인 골드워크 자수에 사용되는 기법은 대표적으로 카우칭 기법, 패딩 기법(padding), 컷워크(cut work), 오르 누에(or nué)가 있다. 골드워크 자수 재료의 경우 대부분이 굵은 두께와 뻣뻣함으로 직접 자수가 힘들기 때문에, 금속사를 원단 위에 가지런하게 정돈하는 레이워크(laid work) 후 실크사로 감싸 바느질하여 원단에 고정시키는 방법인 카우칭 기법이 많이 사용된다(RSN, 2018). | |
골드워크 자수의 재료 특성으로 인해 풍기는 인상은 무엇인가? | 골드워크 자수(goldwork embroidery)는 자수의 유형 중 하나이며, 금사뿐만 아니라 모든 금속사를 이용한 자수법을 의미한다. 현재 종교의복이나 깃발, 공연 의상, 제복 그리고 배지 등의 장식요소로 많이 사용되고 있으며(Francoise & Paine, 2007), 이러한 장식은 금이라는 재료의 특성으로 고급스럽고 고귀한 인상을 준다. 또한, 예로부터 금색은 반짝임, 빛, 에너지, 생명, 권력 등을 의미하는 색이었으며(Pastoureau & Simonnet, 2015/2020), 중국에서는 음양오행 사상에 따라 황금색을 황제의 색으로 여겨 금사로 용을 수놓아 황제의 의복을 장식하기도 하였다(21st Century Research Society, 2003/2004). |
21st Century Research Society. (2004). 하룻밤에 읽는 색의 문화사 [Cultural history of color] (R. H. Jung, Trans.). Seoul: Yedam. (Original work published 2003)
Anawalt, P. (2009). The worldwide history of dress (The Korean Society of Costume, Trans.). Seoul: Wisdomhouse. (Original work published 2007)
Berlin Embroidery Designs. (n.d.). Faltwrom. Berlinembroidery.com, Retrieved April 28, 2020, from https://berlinembroidery.com/product/flatworm/
Boehn, M. V. (2000). Die mode (J. W. Lee, Trans.). Seoul: Hangilart. (Original work published 1996)
Braudel, F. (1992). Civilisation materielle, economie et capitalisme [Civilization and capitalism] (S. Reynold, Trans.). CA: University of California Press. (Original work published 1982)
Brown, M. (2007). Goldwork embroidery: Designs and projects. NSW: Sally Milner Publishing.
Chae, M. G. (2017, December 06). 수놓은 군복.청바지... 패션계 몰아친 자수 열풍 [Dressed military uniform and jeans... the embroidery craze that has driven the fashion world]. Chosun Media, Retrieved July 07, 2020, from http://news.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2017/12/06/2017120600171.html
Chanel. (n.d.). 공방컬렉션 [Artisan collection]. Retrieved April 1, 2020, from https://www.chanel.com/ko_KR/fashion/news/2017/11/metiers-d-art.html
Cho, K. S. (2016). What makes france a fashion power: A socio-historical approach. The Korean Society of Costume, 66(2), 32-44. doi:10.7233/jksc.2016.66.2.032
Choi, I. J. (2014, October 21). 국립한경대, 대한제국 '문관대례복' 재현 [Hankyung national university reproduces 'mungwan daeryebok' of the Korean empire]. Kyonghyang, Retrieved April 15, 2020, from http://news.khan.co.kr/kh_news/khan_art_view.html?artid201410211458211&code620109
Edna, W. (1930, September 1). Fashion: Gold dots embroidered on black Tulle/Silver embroidery on stiffened chiffon. Vogue, 76(5). Retrieved April 15, 2020, from https://search.proquest.com/docview/879192186?accountid13364
Elias, N. (1999). Uber den prozess der zivilisation [The civilizing process] (M. E. Park, Trans.). Seoul: Hangilsa. (Original work published 1939)
Entwistle, J. (2013). The fashioned body (K. H. Choi, Trans.). Seoul: Hansung University. (Original work published 2000)
Francois lesage. (n.d.). In Wikipedia. Retrieved April 15, 2020, from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fran%C3%A7ois_Lesage
Francoise, T., & Paine, S. (2007). The art of embroidery: Inspirational stitches, textures and surfaces. London: Thames & Hudson.
Gombrich, E. (2017). The story of art Vol. 16 (S. G. Beak & J. S. Lee, Trans.). Seoul: Yekyong. (Original work published 1950)
Google Art & Culture. (n.d.). Bodice. Retrieved April 15, 2020, from https://artsandculture.google.com/asset/bodice/kQE733ZqtXYG-w
Hart, A., & North, S. (2009). Seventeenth and eighteenthcentury fashion in detail. London: V & A Publishing.
Hereford Museum. (n.d.). Burse. herefordshire.gov.uk, Retrieved April 15, 2020, from https://www.herefordshire.gov.uk/info/200172/museums/638/museums_collections_search?Id2953
Hinshaw, V. (2011). Royal wedding gowns. Retrieved May 1, 2020, April 15, 2020, from http://numberonelondon.net/category/royalty/princess-charlotte/
Jung, H. S. (1997). 서양복식문화사 [A history of fashion]. Paju: Kyomunsa.
Jung, J. N., & Yoo, Y. S. (2001). A study on character of religious motive in modern fashion design of 1990's. The Korean Society of Costume, 51(5), 45-59.
Jung, Y.-H. (2002). A study of gorgeous images in modern fashion - Focus on Byzantine Empire in middle ages -. Journal of Fashion Business, 6(5), 48-58.
Kang, R. A., & Lee, H. J. (1999). A study on the symbolic characteristics of medieval heraldry in the modern fashion. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 44, 153-167.
KHM. (n.d.). Cope of the order of golden fleece. Retrieved April 15, 2020, from https://www.khm.at/en/objectdb/detail/86220/?pid2338&back1565&offset2&lvlistpackages-5572
Kim, J. G., Lim, S. H. & Kim, A. R. (2001). A effect of sociocultural environment on the vicissitudes of headgear - Focused on 19th century in Europe -. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 9(2), 295-307.
Kim, M. J. (2007). Social recognition of apparel in the early period (1510s) of Henry VIII. The Korean Journal of British Studies, 17(17), 109-139. doi:10.22852/kjbs..17.200706.110
Kim, M. J., Choi, H. S., Kim, Y. H., Ha, J. S., Choi, S. H., & Koh, H. J. (2010). 서양패션 멀티콘텐츠 [Western fashion multi-contents]. Seoul: Kyomunsa.
Kim, S. Y., & Lim, Y. J. (2001). A study on contemporary fashion expressed in haute couture. The Korean Society of Costume, 51(6), 147-165.
Koh, A. R. (2008). 서양의 복식문화와 역사 [A history of fashion]. Paju: Kyomunsa.
Lambert, M. (1846). The handbook of needlework. Retrieved May 1, 2020, from https://books.google.co.kr/books?idRllHAAAAYAAJ&printsecfrontcover&hlko&sourcegbs_ge_summary_r&cad0#vonepage&q&ffalse
Lee, J. E. (2019). 귀족의 시대 탐미의 발견 [The discovery of the taste of the aristocracy]. Koyang: Myoohsa.
Lee, K. H. (2009). Transition of embroidery in Europe. The Society of Fashion & Textile Industry, 11(2), 231-241.
Lee, K. M. (2015). A study on the embroidery of the chevron of western-style court dress in the Daehan empire. Society of Korean Traditional Costume, 18(4), 35-48. doi:10.16885/jktc.2015.12.18.4.35
Lee, M. S. (2003). Power and aesthetic images in men's fashion. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 11(2), 177-192.
Lee, S. H. (1996). A study of costume types and background of occurrence in the era of renaissance. The Korean Society of Costume, 30(30), 275-294.
Lee, S. H. (2003). A study on the ornaments in western dress history. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 11(1), 20-46.
Martin, R. H., & Koda, H. (1995). Haute couture. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art.
MCNY. (n.d.). Worth & Mainbocher. Retrieved April 20, 2020, from https://collections.mcny.org/C.aspx?VP3CMS3&VFMNYO28_4
MET Museum. (n.d.). Chasuble. Retrieved April 15, 2020, from https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/466660
NPG. (n.d.). Queen Elizabeth 1. Retrieved April 15, 2020, from https://collectionimages.npg.org.uk/large/mw02074/Queen-Elizabeth-I.jpg
Park, I. J., & Lee, K. H. (2010). A study of the embroidery design properties in fashion collection. The Society of Fashion & Textile Industry, 12(1), 10-20. doi:10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.1.010
Park, J. S. (2010). 패션과 권력 [Fashion and power]. Seoul: Seoul University.
Pastoureau, M., & Simonnet, D. (2020). Les couleurs expliquees en images [Colours explained in pictures] (B. M. Koh, Trans.). Seoul: Artculture. (Original work published 2015)
RSN. (2018). The royal school of needlework book of embroidery. London: Search Press Limited.
Sarah Homfray Embroidery. (2020). Goldwork embroidery threads and metals explained [YouTube Channel]. Retrieved May 1, 2020, from https://www.youtube.com/watch?vYLwQbLUf974
Scott, A. (2008). AZ of goldwork with silk embroidery. London: Country Bumpkin.
Sim, Y. O. (2002). 한국 직물 오천년 [5000 years of Korean textiles]. Seoul: Institute for studies of Ancient Textiles.
TRC. (n.d.a). Maaseik embroideries. Retrieved April 15, 2020, from https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/individual-textiles-and-textile-types/religious-vestments-and-other-textiles/maaseik-embroideries
TRC. (n.d.b). St. Cuthbert embroideries. Retrieved April 15, 2020, from https://trc-leiden.nl/trc-needles/individual-textiles-and-textile-types/religious-vestments-and-other-textiles/st-cuthbert-embroideriesvestments-and-other-textiles/maaseik-embroideries
V&A Museum. (n.d.a). The syon cope. Retrieved April 15, 2020, from https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/the-syon-cope
V&A Museum. (n.d.b). Jacket. Retrieved April 27, 2020, from http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O11095/jacket-unknown/
V&A Museum. (n.d.c). The John of thanet panel. Retrieved April 15, 2020, from http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O93385/the-john-of-thanet-panel-panel-from-a-unknown/
V&A Museum. (n.d.d). Mantua. Retrieved April 15, 2020, from http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O13811/mantua-leconte-madame/
Wales Museum. (n.d.). Dress. Retrieved April 7, 2020, from https://museum.wales/collections/online/object/e2ce99c3-462b-3da3-af0a-953e4f94008d/Dress/
WGA. (n.d.). Henry VIII's portrait. Retrieved May 1, 2020, from https://www.wga.hu/html_m/h/holbein/hans_y/1535h/06henry8.html
*원문 PDF 파일 및 링크정보가 존재하지 않을 경우 KISTI DDS 시스템에서 제공하는 원문복사서비스를 사용할 수 있습니다.
출판사/학술단체 등이 한시적으로 특별한 프로모션 또는 일정기간 경과 후 접근을 허용하여, 출판사/학술단체 등의 사이트에서 이용 가능한 논문
※ AI-Helper는 부적절한 답변을 할 수 있습니다.